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Stock appearing lightweight intake

Chewy22

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 17, 2009
1,996
1,372
113
Montana
Thanks. I should have taken more pictures. The windshield is tough to pull off with the LED. The windshield and black part are from the yamahas. I just cutoff the little wings that go down the back side of the head light and bolted it down. There is a slight gap between that and the intake piece. I will take more pictures the next time I have it appart.

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U
Oct 26, 2014
240
111
43
Minnesota
UPDATE

So I've been able to put a couple miles on with the new hood and intake in the marginal snow that MN doesn't have. So far it has been awesome! You can feel a HUGE difference in how the front end reacts and it feels so much more balanced and lighter than it did stock. I added a few layers of reflective heat tape to the underside as it is really close to the exhaust (even when stock). I added a 6" LED to the bars, not too impressed with it. It isn't a really high quality one, just a cheap one but it does the job. Overall, I'm completely happy with it. Next week I'll be heading to WY to do some real riding and testing and see how it does, also just added a Speedwerx Stage II kit so can't wait!
 
N
Sep 14, 2014
23
6
3
38
After reading through post on lightweight hoods and manufacturers selling them for $350+, I decided why not see what I can come up with on my 15 M8000. This is my trial & error sled I use to test different setups on. I wasn't looking for an increase in power, extreme air flow, or anything exciting. Just wanted to see if I could get the stock hood's weight down while maintaining a stock appearance, I'm not a fan of just slamming the windshield onto the top of the intake. To me it just looks like something is missing. So here's what I came up with.

I used a center hood vent from Mountain Fit, along with three of their universal vents. These vents are awesome, frogskin style membrane behind a stainless mesh grille.

I removed the stock airbox channel/ducting and cut it right behind the first set of screws that are on top of the intake. Then removed all the useless foam from under the hood. To block off the intake hole I used air duct galvanized sheeting, primed and painted high temp black, then riveted it to the nose while sealing it with automotive "Goop" and also applying "Goop" to the rivets so it is air tight. I then drilled/ported holes in the plastic upper sides where the hood pieces cover it to remove weight.

**The reason I went with the galvanized sheeting over aluminum was it is cheap, very light, and I could cut it with a tin snips. This being a trial and error run I didn't know if this whole idea would work so for $6 a sheet I decided it was worth it if I had to use multiple sheets or scrap the entire plan.**

For under where the headlight mounts, I cut away all the thick plastic and replaced it with a piece of perforated aluminum, again primed and painted with high temp black just for looks and riveted it in place. I plan on putting frog skinz material under or over it to prevent junk from falling through, just haven't received it in the mail yet.

I removed the headlight lens from the housing, then trimed about 2+ inches off of it so it fit the contour I wanted, getting it a lot lower than stock and a more aggressive look. Like the other pieces I sanded it and painted it flat black just for looks.

The stock intake/upper headlight piece I drilled/ported holes in it to remove excess weight as this piece was still heavy without the headlight housing. I could still drill out more holes using a smaller bit but for now it'll do. If I wanted to I could add some tubing and use the stock intakes if I desire.

I then mounted the stock guage bracket and windshield on and mounted the headlight piece onto the intake with three small stainless bolts and two sheetmetal screws for a sturdy mount when I need to roll this sled over.

The last item I had to address was relocating the air sensor using the SLP relocation template. Simple and easy. The SLP entension wire is nice, but not required if you know how to properly splice wiring.

Once I was fininshed I weighed the entire assembly put together and it came in at 13.5 lbs on the bathroom scale (intake, hood panels, windshield, speedometer, stock wiring).

The intake by itself weighs 6 lbs.

Stock was 21.5 lbs so all in all about an 8 pound weight loss.

Like I stated before I wasn't looking for anything major or drastic. I wasn't looking to add power or anything due to air flow etc.., just to loose some weight from this fat cat while maintaining a stock look and being able to use the stock goggle pouch in the stock location. I plan on applying reflective heat tape to the entire underside of the intake. Let me know what you think.
The most impressive headlight delete I've come across on a proclimb. Excellent craftsmanship. I really appreciate that you were able to keep the goggle bag.
 
C

cbc24

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
946
249
43
gp
very smart idea! I was trying to think of a solution for this aswell, Id like the weight loss but like the windshield coverage for them cold days! I ordered the skinz hood last year bc it was on sale, was not a fan of the screen location being open on the bottom. I like the idea of the bottom being shielded.. I gutted the baffling and foam out of mind, I never thought to block that off and just vent the lower portion of it.! Im really curious how that will do in the pow pow days, if it will be able to breath enough and not choke off!
 
C

cbc24

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
946
249
43
gp
very nice!! I ordered the skinz hood last year but was not a fan of the intake location,, I wanted to keep the windscreen for them cold days and do something light, ive gutted my hood aswell. I never thought to block off th eupper half and just vent the crap out of the lower half!! nicely done! I may have to do this on my 141
 
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