2013 drop and roll help.

[Hoeksmax]

Hey proclimb gurus. I have a question about a drop and roll for my 2013 proclimb 800. I was wondering if I can just use a inner and outer chain case from the newer sleds. I have not done a ton of research on this. Just have read that you can get a belt drive set up and to go with that. But I would like to keep the chain for now just for price reasons. I can get a whole chain case with oil tank for like 150$. Just not sure anyone has gone this route. What year did they drop and roll the chain case and what model was it. I know the 17 mountain cat had the D&R but where the 18 and up all drop and roll? Any help on this would be greatly appreciated

 

[boondocker97]

2017 Mountain cat and then anything 2018+ has the dropped driveshaft except some of the more trail orientated Riots. The Riot X models have the dropped driveshaft I think. You'll probably have to change the gears top and bottom as well with the longer chain since 2016+ sleds all used the Borg Warner hyvo-type chains with different tooth profile. Oil tanks on the Ctec sleds will be different so you'll need to swap your tank over.

 

[Hoeksmax]

Hey boondocker thanks a ton for the info. This is kind of what I figured. I have no problem getting the longer chain with borg Warner gear. Do you know if the older oil tank will fit on the newer case half? Also I’m guessing I’ll need that template from who ever makes it on here can remember the company’s name at the moment. Do you know if the proclimb driveshaft fits the new gears?

 

[boondocker97]

TKI makes the template kit https://tkicnc.com/product/drop-and-roll-arctic-cat-template/. They are stainless steel cutouts, one for each side. The brake side one gets riveted into the chassis and stays. The splines on the driveshafts have remained the same over the years so you should be good there.

I'm not 100% sure on oil tank compatibility. If you check the part number for the oil tank on your sled with one for a 2017 Mountain Cat and they are the same, then should swap right over. FYI the back face of the oil tank is the front face of the chain case cover so the swap will be a little messy.

 

[spoon]

Did it to my 2016 limited. Using TKI templates was not that bad. I only needed inner half as I went belt drive.

 

[Hoeksmax]

Ya seems pretty simple with template. Looks like the new oil tank profile is the same as old one. So it will probably bolt right up. I think with the stuff I find on buynsell I could have done for around 400$Ca including template. Just not sure what I want to do yet. Was also thinking belt drive. But I may have spent my sled budget on a new powerbloc clutch lol. But I love to tinker. @spoon what did you think of the drop and roll? Did it make a big enough difference to justify it?

 

[Hoeksmax]

Looks like I have found all the pieces I need. Thanks for the info guys. Appreciate it.

 

[spoon]

Ya seems pretty simple with template. Looks like the new oil tank profile is the same as old one. So it will probably bolt right up. I think with the stuff I find on buynsell I could have done for around 400$Ca including template. Just not sure what I want to do yet. Was also thinking belt drive. But I may have spent my sled budget on a new powerbloc clutch lol. But I love to tinker. @spoon what did you think of the drop and roll? Did it make a big enough difference to justify it?

On the 16 it made a lot of difference getting rid of 7T drivers and putting 8S in with the 3 inch track. Trenched like crazy before.

 

[Hoeksmax]

Ah right on good to here. The only
Problem I have now just looking at tki template it’s going to be over 200$ Canadian to get the thing to my door. Is there any Canadian companies that deal with them. Was 53$ to ship it ?

 

[boondocker97]

@Teth-Air is based in Canada and I want to say is a TKI dealer. Might be able to help you out. http://www.sourceinnovations.ca/

 

[Teth-Air]

@Teth-Air is based in Canada and I want to say is a TKI dealer. Might be able to help you out. http://www.sourceinnovations.ca/

Thank you but we are shutting down our business and sold our stock to Iron River Powersports.

 

[Hoeksmax]

Ahhhh ok that’s to bad. Thanks for the heads up. I guess that’s why my emails have not gone through.

 

[Teth-Air]

Ahhhh ok that’s to bad. Thanks for the heads up. I guess that’s why my emails have not gone through.

Emails are supposed to be still working. Not sure why. We still have stock shown on our web store to sell sourceinnovations.ca

 

[Hoeksmax]

Has anyone done this with out the template. Doesn’t look impossible just a lot of figuring I guess it’s hard pill to swallow buying a couple pieces of stainless and a piece of paper for over 200$ Canadian.

 

[sno*jet]

in your shoes i wouldnt worry about it. By 2017 even the limited models werent bad with the 21/49 gears and 7 tooths. If you can shoehorn 8 tooths (you already have?) in with the 3" and run the mountaincat gearing 19/50 you should be like 90% there. I would argue that the older clutches when they get hot efficiency goes down and then it will trench more just due to less track speed. Some people love the old cat secondary though. sorry if im side-tracking you. Might be other things you could do instead i guess was my only point.

 

[boondocker97]

I guess you could start cutting material away until the new chain case fit and go from there. All the bolt holes on the lower part are in different locations so not sure how many common points there are to work from. Maybe just the two bolts that sandwich the case between the tunnel layers above the footwell? I know TKI had to electronically measure both setups to get all the hole locations right in relation to each other (or at least close enough to be repeatable and work on a wide range of sleds). Customizing yourself if you have to drill or ream holes out again there's no one to blame but yourself lol. You'd still have to build a filler plate to fill in and mount the brake caliper to without the template kit.

One thing that hasn't been brought up is the interference between your rails and the dropped 8T driver location. With a 2013 skid you will have to move the skid back to the 2014+ location (if you haven't already) and trim the rail caps way down so they can't hit the drivers.

There used to be some great pictures of the dropped driveshaft install in this thread of a sled that Kmod built, but I think when the forum updated they were lost. https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/my-new-ride.396029/page-4 The comments on page 4 might still give you some insight on how big of a job it is. Sno*jet may be onto something with saving your pennies for another more worthwhile mod (depending on what you already have done). Or just saving your pennies for gas and oil. The main thing the dropped driveshaft does is help keep the front end down and climbing on top the snow. If you like a light, playful front end feel it might not even be what you want to do.

 

[spoon]

Has anyone done this with out the template. Doesn’t look impossible just a lot of figuring I guess it’s hard pill to swallow buying a couple pieces of stainless and a piece of paper for over 200$ Canadian.

The brake side template is necessary to leave in place, the chaincase side can be removed after drilling and cutting. I took a paper impression of the brake side in case I need to do another one and have the chaincase side one left over to re-use. Would ruin the bulkhead if trying to freehand it and mess up. I that happened I would look for a newer bulkhead with the drop and roll already in it.

 

[Hoeksmax]

in your shoes i wouldnt worry about it. By 2017 even the limited models werent bad with the 21/49 gears and 7 tooths. If you can shoehorn 8 tooths (you already have?) in with the 3" and run the mountaincat gearing 19/50 you should be like 90% there. I would argue that the older clutches when they get hot efficiency goes down and then it will trench more just due to less track speed. Some people love the old cat secondary though. sorry if im side-tracking you. Might be other things you could do instead i guess was my only point.

Hey thanks for the reply! So what I have gathered so far is the whole chain case side set up including manual tensioner (did one on an 1100 already) and 19/50 Borg Warner chain. and for fairly cheap I think. It all cost me 350$ Canadian plus I’m sure I can sell my old one for a couple hundred (both half’s and gears and chain. so not really into it for that much. My sled is a 2013 proclimb. I also have a brand new power bloc 80 I’m going to try out for this year. The sled came pretty modded out when I got 16’ front end, running boards, boss seat, boysen reeds bmp y pipe blah blah blah. After those things besides a drop and roll what could I do?? Turbo may be next year…. I don’t mind if I have to get the TKI template. Just the the exchange and shipping brings the price up so much. But hey gotta pay to play.

 

[Hoeksmax]

The brake side template is necessary to leave in place, the chaincase side can be removed after drilling and cutting. I took a paper impression of the brake side in case I need to do another one and have the chaincase side one left over to re-use. Would ruin the bulkhead if trying to freehand it and mess up. I that happened I would look for a newer bulkhead with the drop and roll already in it.

Ya I think I’ll just get the template.

 

[Hoeksmax]

I guess you could start cutting material away until the new chain case fit and go from there. All the bolt holes on the lower part are in different locations so not sure how many common points there are to work from. Maybe just the two bolts that sandwich the case between the tunnel layers above the footwell? I know TKI had to electronically measure both setups to get all the hole locations right in relation to each other (or at least close enough to be repeatable and work on a wide range of sleds). Customizing yourself if you have to drill or ream holes out again there's no one to blame but yourself lol. You'd still have to build a filler plate to fill in and mount the brake caliper to without the template kit.

One thing that hasn't been brought up is the interference between your rails and the dropped 8T driver location. With a 2013 skid you will have to move the skid back to the 2014+ location (if you haven't already) and trim the rail caps way down so they can't hit the drivers.

There used to be some great pictures of the dropped driveshaft install in this thread of a sled that Kmod built, but I think when the forum updated they were lost. https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/my-new-ride.396029/page-4 The comments on page 4 might still give you some insight on how big of a job it is. Sno*jet may be onto something with saving your pennies for another more worthwhile mod (depending on what you already have done). Or just saving your pennies for gas and oil. The main thing the dropped driveshaft does is help keep the front end down and climbing on top the snow. If you like a light, playful front end feel it might not even be what you want to do.

Hmmm I have my oil stocked for the year. Walmart had 5L jugs of shell advanced ultra synthetic for 45$!! So I have 2 and half jugs. Should do me for the year. I always think I want a light playful front end and I’m gunna be like burandt or something but the reality is…. I’m not. but I like a bit of technical riding and would like to stay on top and not trench. Then again I’m just a weekend warrior and love tinker on these things. I do have 8 tooth drivers on now and it looks like I have just over 2.5” from driver to rails tip. How far down and back does it drop and roll? I only have 2.6 on now and 3” will be in the near future.