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Stock appearing lightweight intake

U
Oct 26, 2014
240
111
43
Minnesota
After reading through post on lightweight hoods and manufacturers selling them for $350+, I decided why not see what I can come up with on my 15 M8000. This is my trial & error sled I use to test different setups on. I wasn't looking for an increase in power, extreme air flow, or anything exciting. Just wanted to see if I could get the stock hood's weight down while maintaining a stock appearance, I'm not a fan of just slamming the windshield onto the top of the intake. To me it just looks like something is missing. So here's what I came up with.

I used a center hood vent from Mountain Fit, along with three of their universal vents. These vents are awesome, frogskin style membrane behind a stainless mesh grille.

I removed the stock airbox channel/ducting and cut it right behind the first set of screws that are on top of the intake. Then removed all the useless foam from under the hood. To block off the intake hole I used air duct galvanized sheeting, primed and painted high temp black, then riveted it to the nose while sealing it with automotive "Goop" and also applying "Goop" to the rivets so it is air tight. I then drilled/ported holes in the plastic upper sides where the hood pieces cover it to remove weight.

**The reason I went with the galvanized sheeting over aluminum was it is cheap, very light, and I could cut it with a tin snips. This being a trial and error run I didn't know if this whole idea would work so for $6 a sheet I decided it was worth it if I had to use multiple sheets or scrap the entire plan.**

For under where the headlight mounts, I cut away all the thick plastic and replaced it with a piece of perforated aluminum, again primed and painted with high temp black just for looks and riveted it in place. I plan on putting frog skinz material under or over it to prevent junk from falling through, just haven't received it in the mail yet.

I removed the headlight lens from the housing, then trimed about 2+ inches off of it so it fit the contour I wanted, getting it a lot lower than stock and a more aggressive look. Like the other pieces I sanded it and painted it flat black just for looks.

The stock intake/upper headlight piece I drilled/ported holes in it to remove excess weight as this piece was still heavy without the headlight housing. I could still drill out more holes using a smaller bit but for now it'll do. If I wanted to I could add some tubing and use the stock intakes if I desire.

I then mounted the stock guage bracket and windshield on and mounted the headlight piece onto the intake with three small stainless bolts and two sheetmetal screws for a sturdy mount when I need to roll this sled over.

The last item I had to address was relocating the air sensor using the SLP relocation template. Simple and easy. The SLP entension wire is nice, but not required if you know how to properly splice wiring.

Once I was fininshed I weighed the entire assembly put together and it came in at 13.5 lbs on the bathroom scale (intake, hood panels, windshield, speedometer, stock wiring).

The intake by itself weighs 6 lbs.

Stock was 21.5 lbs so all in all about an 8 pound weight loss.

Like I stated before I wasn't looking for anything major or drastic. I wasn't looking to add power or anything due to air flow etc.., just to loose some weight from this fat cat while maintaining a stock look and being able to use the stock goggle pouch in the stock location. I plan on applying reflective heat tape to the entire underside of the intake. Let me know what you think.

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richardderkevorkian

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Feb 7, 2010
634
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Soldotna AK
Looks awesome! I read that you put silicone on the rivets but I never put rivets in my air box due to the possibility of the ball falling out. I used stainless screws on mine if you want an alternative, the plastic is plenty thick enough for them to grab.
 
C

coolx2

Well-known member
Nov 29, 2007
476
66
28
Very similar to what I'm doing. Just waiting on my mountain fit vents to show up.
 
U
Oct 26, 2014
240
111
43
Minnesota
Thank you!

Thanks guys! Yeah I saw Mountain Fit's post about their own blockoff piece and that's what gave me the idea, I just couldn't wait for them to list it on their website to the public.. I'm impatient and when I get an idea I have to do it right then.. :)

I thought about the rivet ball falling out, but that's why I put them facing out of the airbox and siliconed a pile of goop on both side holes of them. I mocked it up with screws, but then decided on rivets. Maybe on the next one, we'll see! After looking at it today I'm sure I could get at least another pound out of it in different ways so I might have to dig back into it..
 
U
Oct 26, 2014
240
111
43
Minnesota
Thanks DDecker!
Mountain Fit vents (1- center hood vent, 3- universal vents) was $84 shipped.
1- (18"x36") piece of galvanized heat duct sheeting for the block off plate was $6. I only used about 1/2 of the sheet after scrapping two other trial pieces.
1- expanded aluminum piece (24"x24") under the "headlight area", it was $26.
Lastely (3/16"x1/2") aluminum rivets $5.
Made my own air sensor extension to relocate it so $0 as I had wire and connectors.
I already had a tube of silicon Goop, drill bits, air rivet gun, and paint so $0.

Total cost: $121 and a three day weekend off and on of my time.

I haven't bought an LED light yet so that cost isn't included, not sure which one I want yet.
 
Last edited:
M
Nov 18, 2011
4
1
3
Thanks for the pictures!Nice work!Sittier in north sweden,on to do similar process,but has not begun for i replace footstep and front a-arms first.But will use orginal upper intake and silicon huse to the front intake.I like you have drill holes to loose weight,thanks for the tips...
Pardon for bad us text....
 
U
Oct 26, 2014
240
111
43
Minnesota
Thanks mdtl! I got the porting/drilling holes idea from looking at sno-cross team sleds a few years ago. Good easy cheap way to loose some excess weight. We'll see how this intake performs this winter, more modifications may be needed..
 

n2otoofast4u

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Oct 3, 2010
767
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Kmod has a guage relocate that makes this an even better program! After reapers deal went MIA I went about it myself as well. Stumbled across the Kmod deal and the project became far more simple!
 

n2otoofast4u

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Oct 3, 2010
767
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Thanks N2otoofast4u for the suggestion, are you talking about Kmods ProClimb guage lifter? That's all I could find on their website..
Yes. I'm just about done with mine.

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This is just a piece of sheet ABS.
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U
Oct 26, 2014
240
111
43
Minnesota
Thanks! Sweet looking setup! I'll have to look into the guage mount, that would put it right where it needs to be. Where did you get the LED and does that one give off enough light? I put a 6" LED on my bars but think I may have bought a flood light instead of a spot light so am looking at other options..
 

n2otoofast4u

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Oct 3, 2010
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The light came from ebay. It's not mega bright, but would certainly get a guy home if he got caught out late. Typically if we are out at night it's because something has happened. I try to be off the hill come nightfall. It's on there more because it's a requirement in OR to have a headlight so this keeps the Rangers happy.
 

Chewy22

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Oct 17, 2009
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Montana
I finally got mine wrapped up last night. Total weight is 14.7lbs; that includes all hood pieces, intake, speedo, LED light, and wiring. Stock hoods weigh 21.5lbs. I was shooting for 6lbs lose. I easily could lose .2lbs in the LED wiring harness but just didn't want to tackle cutting out all the excess wire right now. I never weighed the LED light, but it was much heavier than expected. I did some of the similar porting on the center section like usmc above. Did not touch the center section where he used the aluminum but I could port more there and seal up with frogzkin at some point.

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