What used Skidoo would you buy under $5k?

[Blainelukens]

Another vote for 13 + xm sleds, my 16 hasn’t skipped a beat in 4K miles now it’s the girlfriend’s ride. Only things I’ve done is rebuilt both clutches around 3k and had to replace the y pipe bolts. I’ve had multiple friends ride these things up to around 5-5.5k before doing a top end. These are 800’s with all mountain miles, look at the rental sleds around most xm‘s have a pile of miles. one of the local rentals sold 3 last year one had 9k another with 7k and the newer of the bunch had 5k, not easy miles I assume.

 

[Wrenchmaster]

The biggest thing to look for it how they have been treated. Look at the shock to a-arm clearance on both sides, most used XP XM sleds have bent modules from my experience. 174/175 sleds can be found cheap (or spendy) because they are rider specific sleds. I would never buy one if it were my only sled, but for those deeeeep days...... Again, from my experience: 11-15 Pro engines go 2000 miles and are done. Earlier 11-12 less. Older 800 HO and 800R Doos the same, maybe a little bit more. Etecs I wouldn't worry until 3000 miles. Probably more. No idea on the 850 Etecs. Prolly gonna piss some people off, but Suzuki Cat engines? I would go 4-5K miles if taken care of and fed the right oil and juice. Biggest thing? The newer you buy, the more it will cost to repair. If you have an issue with any of the new sleds, it is not like the good old days where you can fix it in the garage with a few beers. The new stuff is complicated, spendy, and if it comes to an efi or electrical problem, you need dealership tools.
[/QUOTE]

I'm thinking of a T3 174, have one I'm interested in right now. I haven't heard anything bad about them and since riding with a friend on a '14 163 I'm pretty sold on it. Went everywhere I went and more, burned half the fuel & oil. I'm 100% mountain rider, so like the idea of a '74, why would you avoid the longer track? I'm just sick of getting stuck, but if you bury a '74 I imagine it's a job getting it out lol.

Only upgrades I've read about are the T-stat mod and better front shocks since the KYB's are apparently junk

 

[bowhunter11199]

The biggest thing to look for it how they have been treated. Look at the shock to a-arm clearance on both sides, most used XP XM sleds have bent modules from my experience. 174/175 sleds can be found cheap (or spendy) because they are rider specific sleds. I would never buy one if it were my only sled, but for those deeeeep days...... Again, from my experience: 11-15 Pro engines go 2000 miles and are done. Earlier 11-12 less. Older 800 HO and 800R Doos the same, maybe a little bit more. Etecs I wouldn't worry until 3000 miles. Probably more. No idea on the 850 Etecs. Prolly gonna piss some people off, but Suzuki Cat engines? I would go 4-5K miles if taken care of and fed the right oil and juice. Biggest thing? The newer you buy, the more it will cost to repair. If you have an issue with any of the new sleds, it is not like the good old days where you can fix it in the garage with a few beers. The new stuff is complicated, spendy, and if it comes to an efi or electrical problem, you need dealership tools.

I'm thinking of a T3 174, have one I'm interested in right now. I haven't heard anything bad about them and since riding with a friend on a '14 163 I'm pretty sold on it. Went everywhere I went and more, burned half the fuel & oil. I'm 100% mountain rider, so like the idea of a '74, why would you avoid the longer track? I'm just sick of getting stuck, but if you bury a '74 I imagine it's a job getting it out lol.

Only upgrades I've read about are the T-stat mod and better front shocks since the KYB's are apparently junk[/QUOTE]

What about the clutches on the arctic cat M8s, how long are they usually good for? And you’re referring to 07-11 M8 motors correct?


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[summ8rmk]

What about the clutches on the arctic cat M8s, how long are they usually good for? And you’re referring to 07-11 M8 motors correct?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

The cat 800 from 07-17 are very similar in life expectancy.
Clutches are crap till 16. Good news is u can put that new primary clutch on the older sleds.

As for Ski-doo, i personally wouldn't want to purchase any from 2004-1012.
For mountain riding i would look at 2015+ with T3 and delete the wobbler. The Etec is a good engine. Skidoo has the best estart by far. Except for fact the start button is on top of the bars so, the sled will start when u roll it over when stuck on the side of the hill... always disconnect the key before rolling it over!

Sent it

 

[Goinboardin]

Cat clutches are throw aways. Run them until they're worn out, junk (pre-'16). '16+ Cat's are great sleds overall and have Team clutches. I know people say these motors are bullet proof, but they still need pistons. Towed out a '16 last year after it dropped a skirt and locked up tight, just over 4k miles, no warning just a bang. Ridden hard. Took out case, cylinder, head, and pistons. Crank was salvageable. Same thing happened a different weekend with an '08, but I don't know mileage on that sled or what kind of service it saw.

My '13 XM has around 8k miles or so (exact miles unknown due to gauge failure & replacement, but 502 hours on ECU). It's lived a hard life, but I do maintain it, and it's never been towed out. Center punched a tree early on; replaced pipe, plastics, and eventually S-mod. At about 3800 miles I replaced OEM pistons; the skirts measured beyond the limit for collapse. At ~5500 miles I put a crank in it, one connecting rod was discolored from heat and the other wasn't far behind (another set of pistons went in, Pro-X pistons had collapsed skirts but much sooner than OEM).

Somewhere in there the original flywheel came apart and took out the stator. This was warrantied. 2013's had bad flywheels, so be aware of that when shopping. Flywheel comes apart and kills the stator. New OEM parts are expensive for this. This would have me going for a '14+.

I clean the clutches about every 500 miles, replace bushings/springs/sliders as needed. Doesn't eat belts. Mostly gas/oil/go. I'd buy one again. Mine is now essentially a T3, would recommend getting one of them right off the bat.

Biggest complaints: bars are too tall from Doo, skis are not my favorite, and running boards are terrible. Drop bars, Polaris Gripper skis, and install aftermarket boards, great sled.

As miles go up, shocks will degrade. Shocks on a used SP are throw aways (cannot be rebuilt); so get an X package if you can, they can be rebuilt reasonably priced.

 

[slapdappy]

Fall 2017 I bought a mint low mile 2016 T3 174 SP. $8000. BRP Extended warranty. Felker clutching (supposedly a desirable thing). I'm 205 Lbs suited up w/avy pack plus about 20lbs of stuff strapped to sled (hijacker, 2 gal gas, linq bag). Carry shovel, folding saw, and Hijacker https://high-jacker-snowmobile.myshopify.com. Best self rescue tool. Absolute must have, imho. Re getting stuck, this sled makes it easy to not get stuck.
I like that mine is the last year of the XM because I assume it is the best/most reliable version they could make. It has a full tunnel cooler (2015 have 1/2 cooler). Apparently there is a slight difference in front ends between 2015/2016 vs earlier years. I ride the rockies, off trail, at altitude. Love the traction and float. Re maneuverability, I think it allows me to go slower when navigating off trail through trees. The longer track does collect more snow. I have 2300(?) miles on it, still running strong. Ethanol free, Amsoil synthetic. Plan Trygstad 872 big bore when engine needs rebuild.
This year I'm upgrading the suspension. Bought x package take offs and had monster performance service, revalve, dual front springs. I plan to ride it for many years. I don't need the latest and greatest. This does everything I need it and does it well. Next upgrade is Alternative Impact a-arms. Most folks also do the Grip n Rip front brace. These are not the most robust front ends. I did a shocking amount of damage when I hit a rock under the snow at very very low speed. Front of ski kicked up, acted like a doorstop, lurched to a stop. E m module and s module, right spindles, a arms etc needed replacing. Took insurance check, did the work myself, used the leftover $ for lots of aftermarket upgrades.
If the 174 you're looking at has been well maintained but high miles you can get it for lower $, ride for a couple more years, then do the trygstad big bore.
Dootalk forum has tons of info. Members tend to be helpful and responsive.
You may be better off with a 163 or 154, due to your weight.

 

[jcrjet]

How about a 2008 skidoo summit 800 with 425 miles. How are those reliability? Guy is asking low $3k

2008 XP has a fantastic powerplant but the clutch eats belts unless you float it with a kit. Motor is reliable, sled is capable but handles like a 1 ton diesel truck.
Lots of good deals to be had with 14+ Polaris pro. Probably not quite as reliable as the doo but more reliable than the cat. Parts are much more plentiful and there is no place it can't go.