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Twisted Crank??

R

rcaustin

Well-known member
I am assuming that the crankshafts in the 2012 M800 are pressed together and not welded.... If I am wrong somebody can correct me. I am curious as to what the odds are on twisting a crank? I have twisted one before on an old kink cat once.

The reason I ask is this - i was about 40 seconds into a long deep snow pull and I just crested the top when the belt grenaded at WOT into about 1000 pieces. No doubt the sled revved to the moon when it blew. The sled shuttered so hard I thougth I took something more major out. After I replaced the belt the sled didn't feel the same, under revving a couple hundred rpm and smelt like I had a ton of belt slip the remainder of the day and the following day after I cleaned the clutches that night....

Any tips or ideas to if twisting a crank is possible? Sled is basically stock besides a few other mods, track etc... motor is stock.

Thanks,
Ryan
 
Very possible and have seen it a couple times. Belt blowing like you experienced will cause it.

Thanks for the info - this really wasn't what I wanted to hear - but I kinda had the feeling this may be the case... I will have to get a degree wheel and check if each pistion TDC is 180 apart or not and go from there.
 
if my crank ends up being twisted - anybody have a reccommended shop in Calgary, Alberta or surrounding area to take it to to get it re-set and welded and put back together?
 
Anybody know where to get a degree wheel?

Another thing you can do to see if the crank is out. Take a long screwdriver and a short screwdriver and drop down the spark plug holes. Hang on to the screwdriver and have a buddy turn the primary clutch. There will be a spot in the crank rotation that neither piston will move, top dead center and bottom dead center. While you are holding the screwdrivers spin the primary, if one screwdriver moves before the other the crank is out. Hope I explained this so it makes sense. This is how John at northern crankshaft taught me to check the crank.
 
I just watched a go pro clip and saw my rpm was around 79-8100 rpm so I think it's fine - chalking the rpm up to waist deep snow - I must have been paranoid due to the major belt blow... Thx for the input guys.

Ryan
 
Did you get the right beltdeflection when you canged belt? Maybe the new one is a little longer.
 
Did you get the right beltdeflection when you canged belt? Maybe the new one is a little longer.

I was thinking the same thing - could have been the case that the belt is a little longer but I don't think so - how do you check if you have a long belt or not? or i guess a better question - where do you guys have your belt riding in your secondary? flush? if you normally are flush and you get a slightly longer belt... how do you know its longer and how do you adjust? take a shim out?

Ryan
 
I no longer look at the secondary add shims till the belt squeals then remove 30 tho. The thin one. if you have the 60 and the 90 in you take the 60 out and add the 30 .... I find this to be the most accurate way to get the belt set.
 
Why mess with those gay a$$ washers? Buy a belt adjuster from RKTek and be done with it!


Sent from my super duper sweet iPhone using Tapatalk when I should be doing something productive!
 
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