Shortening Aro Shocks to match Aro S Seat Height

TreewellDweller

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In the Timbersled ads it states that the shocks are shorter on the Aro S and Riot S kits to accommodate a 3" lower seat height. I have a 2018 Aro 120 kit. Is it possible to have the shocks rebuilt to the shorter S kit shocks lengths? Or would one need to purchase replacement shocks from a 2021 kit to get the shorter lengths? Or are the 2021 kits totally different configurations?
As for the front end, some bikes have 3" of room to slide the fork tubes up in the clamps. So, I'm just kicking the idea around and would like some input. Thanks!!
 
Apr 22, 2019
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In the Timbersled ads it states that the shocks are shorter on the Aro S and Riot S kits to accommodate a 3" lower seat height. I have a 2018 Aro 120 kit. Is it possible to have the shocks rebuilt to the shorter S kit shocks lengths? Or would one need to purchase replacement shocks from a 2021 kit to get the shorter lengths? Or are the 2021 kits totally different configurations?
As for the front end, some bikes have 3" of room to slide the fork tubes up in the clamps. So, I'm just kicking the idea around and would like some input. Thanks!!
I have a 2019 Aro 137...and am planning on getting my stock shocks shortened to make them the same length as the S shocks. I am waiting for an S kit to show up somewhere so that I can measure them. We will also need the appropriate shorter springs...which can be read off of the S kit...when I find one. I will probably then just buy the spindles from an S to lower the front. They should have the replacement part numbers as soon as the S's are released. One disadvantage that no one has mentioned yet...is that because of the lower front end of the S spindle setup...you can no longer use the standard length trio. I will just probably buy one of the air setups for the stock 2020 ktm forks to stiffen things up on the front end.

Chris
 

CATSLEDMAN1

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Nov 27, 2007
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dropping your sno bike on any model, this is what I do on my 5 lowered bikes.

1. get out the note book, set the bike or snow bike on level concrete and identity a reference point on the front of the bike, say the lowest triple clamp bolt, put a dot of yellow paint on it. measure that distance from floor to point( vertical measurement, use a square if in doubt ) , note that.
In the rear on bikes I use seat bolt on the oriental bikes or other 6mm bolt head around the back of the seat, mark it and write that that down.
2. On a bike I use a ratchet strap to collapse the front forks until my reference point is 3" closer to the ground, measure how much your fork has collapsed, placing a magnet or zip tie on the forks un collapsed then note the distance the zip tie moved. The travel distance is how long a spacer your will have to put in the front forks. In our snow bikes, all you have to do is mod the spindle and move the ski mount up three inches.

3.In the back after writing down your reference point measurement, take the springs off the shocks, put the shocks back on, put a zip tie or magnet on the shock shaft tight against the shaft seal, then collapse the back of the bike 3" and again, write down the amount of shock travel, thats how long an internal space you need in each shock. In the back I would try this with the forks extended and then collapsed 3" and see if there is a significant distance difference.

Shock springs on an ARO once shortened, you can save money and buy 8" 1 7/8" ID 200 lb or appropriate springs off Ebay from
South WEST SPEED or southwestspeed.com . $50 to your door.


I have been running my older TS kits and Riot kit with 3" spacers in my font fork and no modification to the TS shocks length wise. You do have to make significant change to your strut length to get the ride quality back you want. The results are very noticeable, lighter feeling more flickable bike.......if you can say flick around a KTM500.

I am doing two dual sport /dirt bikes the last few days of staying holed up in my shop. 3" lower, DR Suzuki and WR450 Yam. On both these bikes, new seals on the fork and shocks while apart. I cut the springs shorter with an abrasive wheel, no use getting wookie about buying more springs. The DR fork springs are too soft, but lots of new take out XR fork springs for 20 or 30 bucks on Ebay. Use the RACE TECH website spring rate programs to figure what spring you have and what springs you need ( bike/atv ect.) and what other brand of bike use the same springs when searching for springs at a good price.
 
Dec 20, 2007
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Only thing I might add is keep in mind the falling rate geometry on the back. If you lower the bike then the shock angle will have less mechanical advantage to carry weight in its static starting point so if you don't want it to sag too much you will need a stiffer rate than stock.

Also I'm a big fan of shorter spindles. I use a mototrax top spindle with a timbersled bottom block and just fab aluminum plates to connect them. Cut the alum with a 4"cut off grinder and drill a few holes. Easy peasee. I'll post pics later. The big advantage is it takes a huge stress of the spindle and lower tubes if you crash. Also it gives you unlimited options of strut/rake/trail combos and can even tilt bottom block for more tail pressure on the ski carbide.
The mtx top spindle can be hard on some brand of forks with flimsy metal on the base but it is way less abusive to the chrome and dust seals. Plus it allows the forks to have full travel. Mtx parts are cheap. The ts bottom block is $120ish unless you might already have one. Put a grease zerk on it while it's apart if it doesn't already have one. You'll thank me later.
 

TreewellDweller

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Great input folks! Looking forward to any further ideas or processes.
I must admit, I have never disassembled a shock before so are there any good links/sites to go to that have step by step procedures?
Thanks!!
 
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