Primary Clutch Issue

[Radar78]

I'm in the process of switching out my weights which I do often (I ride 3 different elevations) and I noticed that the moveable sheave is binding very badly. If I'm not mistaken, it should move freely correct? Sleds a '13 proclimb 800 with roughly 300 miles on it. Any ideas on what the issue could be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[RACINSTATION]

Bushing is probably shot, but try it with the spring out and the cover on. That way it won't rock on the post.

 

[richardderkevorkian]

I'm in the process of switching out my weights which I do often (I ride 3 different elevations) and I noticed that the moveable sheave is binding very badly. If I'm not mistaken, it should move freely correct? Sleds a '13 proclimb 800 with roughly 300 miles on it. Any ideas on what the issue could be?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If the weights are out of it you may have a cracked spider. The movable sheave is actually quite loose and should move freely. If the weights are in it. Make sure that the bolts aren't to tight. You can actually squeeze the towers onto the buttons and bind the clutch

 

[Radar78]

Thanks for the advice guys. I was thinking it's probably that bushing. Is that replaceable? Weights are still in. They shouldn't be too tight as I torqued them to spec. I'll head back out and put the cover on and see what happens. I'll keep you posted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Radar78]

I put the cover back on without the spring and it definitely improved it but it still doesn't move as freely as I feel it should. Will the local Cat dealer be able to change out that bushing?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Little Cat]

You can not get replacement parts through cat , Just a whole new clutch . However there is a company that makes the replacement parts www.thunderproducts.com When you order your movable sheave replacement bushing from thunder i would also recommend to replace the spider rollers & pins and also install the 911 cover . I just did the whole thing , My rollers were worn out at 800 miles , The reason is the sheave bushing and cover bushing wear out and that puts all the load on one roller while unloading the other two . What eventually will happen is one roller will wear out internally on the pin and in conjunction with worn sheave bushings the front clutch will start to bind and this leads to many broken belts . I got 800 miles on my primary in my prolite without a blown belt , then the clutch went bad and i blew three belts in one day . Keep in mind if you choose to go this route and replace these parts yourself , You will need Torx 60 and clutch puller to remove clutch , A clutch holding fixture to hold the clutch on the bench , Some fixtures go into a receiver hitch on a truck , This is the type i use and recommend , You will need a propane touch to heat up the sticky gooey green loctite arctic cat uses on the spider and you will need a grunt tool to remove the spider . you will also need a press to re assemble the spider rollers . Its not a quick job but i will say that when its done right it makes for a huge difference and ultra smooth clutch .

 

[arctic2009]

If you are going to go through all the work of replacing all the bushings, rollers, etc.. you would be better off buying the new team drive clutch. Much better design and no more friggen set screws!

 

[Radar78]

I took a picture (sorry not the greatest) of the shaft that the moveable sheave slides on. Looks to me like its scored which I'm assuming would be caused by a shot bushing? What's your guys' thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[arctic2009]

I took a picture (sorry not the greatest) of the shaft that the moveable sheave slides on. Looks to me like its scored which I'm assuming would be caused by a shot bushing? What's your guys' thoughts?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hard to tell from the pic but looks like normal marks from the belt resting on the post at idle.

 

[boondocker97]

If it's only rubber marks on there and can be cleaned off with a scotch brite pad and then be shiny I's say it's normal. If the metal is at all torn up and has mars that you can catch your finger nail on it is not normal.

 

[Radar78]

So I cleaned up the clutch as best I could and got it moving a little more freely except it seemed to still be sticking badly when fully engaged and full disengaged while moving it by hand with the cover on and the spring out. I set my adjustable's up for low elevation and went for a ride around home here on the weekend. When starting out, the clutch seems to really bind. Almost feels like the parking brake is on. Engine starts to bog but then the clutch will engage. Seems to improve when it's warm. Another thing I found is I did a couple of short wot's and I could hear kind of a rattling noise coming from the clutches for a short period after letting off. Any advice for me guys? I'm heading back to the mountains in a week and half so I'd like to get this figured out before I leave. If it is the primary bushing, a local parts store sells the ones made by thunder products but I've yet to find someone locally that's willing to install it and I don't have the tools to remove a spider.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Super 8]

Send it to this guy if you want to salvage it;
http://www.smittysengtrans.com/
If you want a direct replacement, here is a new one for $347 shipped.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arctic-Cat-...ash=item2c6cd7b44a:g:MVkAAOSwa-dWoUef&vxp=mtr

 

[RickM]

Radar78

Radar78 sent you a pm

 

[Rattlin_Ram]

Thanks for the advice guys. I was thinking it's probably that bushing. Is that replaceable? Weights are still in. They shouldn't be too tight as I torqued them to spec. I'll head back out and put the cover on and see what happens. I'll keep you posted.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I never torque the weight bolts, they will wind up too tight and weights wont move freely.... I tighten them till they are just snug enough they dont move back n forth and the weights freely swing in and out. If the lock nuts have been used more than a couple times i use a bit of blue lock tite on them JIC.....

 

[RickM]

rattlin ram

exactly correct on your post. I sent him a pm on the same explanation.
good job on your info.

 

[fast8seccamaro]

I have a brand new, never used spider and cover off a updated 14+ clutch if needed. PM is needed, just outside of Edm

 

[diggerdown]

I never torque the weight bolts, they will wind up too tight and weights wont move freely.... I tighten them till they are just snug enough they dont move back n forth and the weights freely swing in and out. If the lock nuts have been used more than a couple times i use a bit of blue lock tite on them JIC.....

Same here...I don't know what kind of lame brain engineer came up with cutting the shoulder of the bolt so you could not butt up to it with the nut. Just take the side play out.

 

[arctic2009]

Same here...I don't know what kind of lame brain engineer came up with cutting the shoulder of the bolt so you could not butt up to it with the nut. Just take the side play out.

Id say it would be better to have the shoulder a little short to make up for the variation in the o-rings so you don't get side to side play and notch the weights. Instead of having a 'perfect' size shoulder and an o-ring that is a little small. I just tighten the lock nut until there is no side to side play, not a big deal. If I've taken them off a couple times I just put a little loctite or stake the threads a little bit.

 

[pinko]

I've always sanded down the O-rings until the weights moved freely with the nut snugged up

 

[fast8seccamaro]

911 products have new o-rings for the axle on the clutch weights. I believe they are made with Delrin or something similar. I have a set and work great, the nut is tight but weight swing way more freely than the stock o-rings