No tail or dash lights

[Leardriver]

Hello!

I bought a 2005 700 RMK, and the headlight didn't work. The dash backlighting, tach, taillight, reverse, premium fuel lights all worked. The blue headlight hi/lo button was missing, and I could see flickering arcing in the handlebar switch. I bought a nice used switch pod, and have instant headlights, high and low. Eureka!

Except...suddenly the dash lights, tach, tail lights, blah blah don't work. I didn't touch anything while changing the switch.

Using the mechanic's principle of undoing the last thing you just did, I put the old switch back on. Back to no headlight, but the other lights didn't work still. I ordered a new voltage regulator because these machines have a sordid history with them failing, but my headlights were working great.

Where should I start troubleshooting? Does this scenario sound familiar to anyone?

Thanks!

 

[Leardriver]

Correction to symptoms-The brake light and premium fuel lights work. Must be on different circuits.

 

[retiredpop]

Correction to symptoms-The brake light and premium fuel lights work. Must be on different circuits.

They all feed from the yellow wire from the stator although the brake light goes through the brake switch and then to the bulb on an orange. The premium fuel gets a switched ground from the ignition switch on the w/or wire and it's voltage is on the yellow wire. See attached wiring diagram.

 

[Leardriver]

Thanks!

I found the problem.

The white wiring connector just rearward of where the rope come out of the recoil housing had come partially unplugged. Maybe a blessing in disguise. It didn't leave me stranded by coming fully unplugged on the mountain, and I got to increase my knowledge of the wiring. I was getting power to the yellow wire at the handlebars, but not at the gauges. I traced the wiring bundle backward until I found the unplugged part.

Pure coincidence that a machine that hadn't moved went from functioning to not while I was replacing a handlebar switch.

 

[whoisthatguy]

There are a lot of items that need checking when you buy a used sled. Like rear bogie wheel bearings, front drive axle bearings, drive clutch weight bearings and bolts, large drive sprocket bolt tightness, VES diaphragm wear, reeds, fuel pump rebuild is always a good idea, shock gas pressure, all rear track bogie wheel bearings, front left engine mount, loose drive clutch, and that is just for starters. Each one of the above can cause disasterous results if not in spec. A sled with over 2500 miles will likely have multiple problems from the above list.

 

[Leardriver]

I have spent 3 weeks checking that stuff. Had the machine suspended from my life while I check every nut and bolt. Fuel pump rebuild still to come.