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My running-board foot-loop injury: Who else has had their foot stuck in the footwell?

Have you had problems with your boots getting trapped in your Polaris ProRide or AXYS


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Timbre

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6ef5c7f4fcdcf9cb10ad849d6444f415.jpg


Like that....


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That is exactly what i want mine to look like. Now, to find a good aluminum welder in the area....
 

LoudHandle

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That is exactly what i want mine to look like. Now, to find a good aluminum welder in the area....

There should be a lot of good aluminum welders in your area as there are about a dozen aluminum boat builders in the corner of Washington, Oregon, Idaho. Granted the majority of them are built using a squirt gun (yuk) but most do use TIG on the most visible welds. FWIW
 

Sheetmetalfab

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SMF,

Hope you heal quickly. After 30 plus years doing metal fabrication as a career. I have more scar tissue than skin on my hands (might be a slight exaggeration) between cuts, grinder bite abrasions, burns, etc.

P.S. IMO and OSHA as well, Gloves should not be worn while operating any rotating equipment.



The glove had no part in it........
The aluminum piece rammed my hand through with it.

Hindsight is always 20-20
 

LoudHandle

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The glove had no part in it........
The aluminum piece rammed my hand through with it.

Hindsight is always 20-20

I do understand that fact, just thought it worthy of mention. Not preaching, just sharing.

As a glove can and does act like a Chinese finger cuff when it catches in a rotating piece of machinery. Be it a grinder, drill press, Lathe, milling machine, power roll, or whatever. The operator is safer gloveless than with gloves. A glove or loose clothing is far more likely to become entangled than a bare hand.

I've used and abused more power tools than most will own in a lifetime. So I'm very familiar with what happened to you. Been there done that, and have similar scars to prove it. That is not counting the close calls, and premonitions I now get before I do something risky, so I stop and figure out a better / safer way.

It is said we learn from our mistakes. But a wise man once told me after my first Hangover, "Live and Learn, but most of us just Live" FWIW

Hope it heals well and quickly! Cause that looks ugly! Both Pre and Post OP.


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B

bailer

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I keep checking back on this thread while I try to make up my mind how to best deal with the tight footloops

Keep forgetting to go immediately to the last post..... and almost puke every time I scroll past that nasty finger injury :face-icon-small-blu
 

B&M Fabrications

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Like I posted earlier, would an exchange program work for doing this mod? It would just cost a little cash flow on the end users part but I could set it up. Where I send you an overstructure that is already fixed in a box with a return label, you take fixed one out and send me your non modified one. The major cost would be a core charge that you would get back when I get your overstructure and verify that it's not bent or broken.

Bryan

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Snowmow

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Like I posted earlier, would an exchange program work for doing this mod? It would just cost a little cash flow on the end users part but I could set it up. Where I send you an overstructure that is already fixed in a box with a return label, you take fixed one out and send me your non modified one. The major cost would be a core charge that you would get back when I get your overstructure and verify that it's not bent or broken.

Bryan

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I've replaced the overstructure on my sled once before. I thought it was a pain in the
A$$! I for one wouldn't be Interested in a trade program, I would rather have your first design.
 

kylant

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B&M,

what about just fabbing up some replacement hoops to sell?
make them with contoured ends that fit nicely against the round tubes of the overstructure. then the owner just has get them welded locally.

it would make the process easier for those who just want to cut the existing ones out and reweld them higher.

when i did that on my pro, it was a very time consuming process. it would be nice to have something ready to go
 

Snowmow

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I'm really not sure why the original design wasn't offered to the ones that wanted it that way. Obviously the install might have been over some peoples heads. But either way, much easier than removing and reinstalling the overstructure
 

Snowmow

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That's was us. Ran into problems with making it simple enough for most people. The pro ride chassis was much friendlier in this department.

It will come down to 2 things

1 - if you absolutely don't want to drill a hole then it's going to get a little pricey on machined parts and it will lose its structural design.

( it is slightly dependant on these, the tubes are thin and need all the boxing/ triangulation they can get. Cut them off and have a bigger guy jump around on them and watch them move a little....leading to fatigue and cracking over time.)

2- if you could care less about drilling some holes it will be easier.

We get opinions both ways on these. I've talked with Sage Crusher and he would have no problems drilling holes cause it's just a hole. Have other locals that I know personally that have major issues putting a hole or 2 in the tunnel.

Bryan



I'm referring to this post
 

B&M Fabrications

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Doing some pre-bent and ready to Weld tubes is easy. Probably will offer that quick if the interest is there. The bolt on option isn't far behind but I need to have some time to finish designing it. We try to cater to all of the customer base and that has been becoming more of a focus on our part. Together let's build a product that you the consumer like and we'll get it to market and try to make it as affordable as possible without hiring a crew of illegal immigrants to make it or send it overseas....cause that won't happen...ever.

Bryan

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