moto trax 129 demo

[scottbilt95]

for the record, i am a moto-trax dealer. that being said, i have a responsibility to my customers, whether the verdict is good, bad, or ugly, so i'm not going to gloss over any issues that i think need to be discussed. here is my take:

in the shop:

-overall, the install instructions are pretty good but i would recommend the youtube videos on the moto-trax channel in addition to help clarify any questions.
-rear skid install is pretty straightforward and simple as there are no specific set of alignment bushings. the unit can be adjusted side-to-side depending on bike application. i recommend using a straight edge to align the main drive sprocket to the countershaft sprocket as opposed to "eyeballing" it.
-the strut rod needs to have threads on both ends (versus the stock one end solid - one end adjustable) for in-place adjustability. trying to adjust the strut length (which can create massively different handling characteristics) while full of snow on the trail is challenging to say the least.
-back bleeding the caliper can be a p.i.t.a. unless you have a lift. with the kit on the ground, i couldn't find an easy way to get at and physically see the bleed ports.
-the main drive chain adjustment is a bit of a process but works well. i like the chain adjusting idea using clamshells on the secondary drive chain but the spacing of the dimples either made for a too loose/too tight situation with my particular setup. once the break-in stretch becomes minimal, i don't see this as a problem. if you have to choose, loose is better. i snapped the original regina x ring mid-link. logic tells me the chain was too tight but my gut tells me it may have been a defective chain.
-the gas shock adjusters for the track work well but make sure to keep the axle tight or it will creep forward and ratchet.
-front forksaver and ski setup is as easy and fast to install as the stock wheel. unfortunately, the spacers sent didn't allow for the ski to be properly centered between the fork tubes. it can be "cheated" to center but the correct bushings are needed.
-according to my shop scale the complete kit installed weighed 332lbs on our 2014 yz450f full wet.


in the snow:

-rising rate rear suspension works as advertised. skid soaked up bigger hits without bottoming and for a shock with no clickers, was very progressive and very rideable.
-i didn't install the typical heavy fork springs. the stockers worked reasonably well with the compression maxed out but it makes sense to go to the stiffer springs for more adjustability.
-the ski was love/hate at first; great in powder and twitchy on the trail. lengthening the strut rod made the trail manners much better but the front end would wash out occasionally in the deeper snow. for grins, i tried a ts ski and spindle and even with the shorter strut rod, the handling was superior. i have a few more adjustments i want to try that hopefully will make the handling better with the stock ski. as currently set up, the stock ski and handling would be acceptable to 7 out of 10 riders but 10 out of 10 would be better.
-the rolling efficiency appears to be 1 gear better than our 2015 ts 137 with the 2" paddle. before getting flamed, it is understood that we are comparing a 129 to a 137 so that would account for some of the increase but in my opinion, it's takes significantly less power to turn. the seat of the pants feel and responsiveness of this kit in the trees begs you to get after it and flog away. in the upcoming weeks, we will see how it performs against the competition and i will let you know the results.

in closing, the moto-trax mountain is a player and rest assured, if you get one, it will be competitive. it has some items that need to be addressed but no manufacturer is currently making the "perfect" kit. as a company, moto-trax is experiencing some growing pains, as most newcomers in the snow travel industry do, but they still answer their phones and that speaks volumes. the product will keep getting better with time, as it has with the competition. well done guys!

jeff scott
scott-bilt racing llc

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zOhvRuqB6SQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[KTMDirtFace]

Thank you for the post, I Demo'd one the other day and had to have one.

Waiting on it from dealer now.

I tried a timbersled once, and it was fun too. But I liked the mototrax front ski mount the best ( no clamping on my forks and loosing travel )

I watched mototrax install videos on youtube and it was very straight forward from what I can tell. Do I even need the manual when mine comes in? the videos seemed great.


EDIT: my friend said I MUST go to stiffer springs or air assist springs for a snowbike. I already have stiffer springs in my KTM 500 EXC because I'm a big tall dude. Will I need to go stiffer?

Your the second person I have heard say that the mototrax does ok without super stiffened up front forks

 

[Timberview01]

Thank you sir for an honest, no BS review. As a fellow owner, I agree with your observations and opinions. The install was easy and the video helped a ton. The manual is actually more confusing than just putting the video on the iPad in the shop and pause when needed. All of the parts were labeled well and packaged conveniently so that all went smooth.

My fork spacers were not "exact" either. But close enough that I didn't sweat it. The strut, on the other hand, was too short so I asked them to ship a longer one. Also agree on the need for a dual threaded design, but Zak stated that they were experiencing difficulties in keeping the jam-nuts tight during the ride and even had a strut basically come apart on them. That is why they went with the current design. But on my WR, it is a total PIA to keep taking the top shock bolt out to make adjustments. I even snapped the plastic nipple off of my fuel injector (my fault) when trying to make an adjustment and lost another week of riding waiting for a replacement.

I checked every bolt with a torque wrench and found everything to be at or above spec.

I fought the brake bleeding process and was about at wit's end. The twin piston caliper is awesome, but getting the air out of the system was harder than any vehicle that I have touched. I recommend bleeding from the caliper to the reservoir.

The ski is definitely a love/hate item. HATE it on the trail or any packed surface. LOVE it in the powder. I ride with an all TS crew and I struggle more on the trail than they do, but I feel as though my ski works just as good in the powder if not better. Thankfully, we have some pretty awesome riding right out of the parking lot, so my trail time is limited. Which is a good thing, because the arm pump from fighting the twitchiness is unreal... But when carving lines, sidehilling, small jumps, or just blasting powder it seems to float well and hold an edge better than expected. Most every time it has washed out was due to an old track beneath the snow or me having my butt too far back on the seat. Any time it is ridden like a dirt bike, the performance is exceptional. This is my first season on a bike, so my learning curve has been steep. Every ride I learn something new and am becoming more and more comfortable. Getting to know the limitations of the machine and my talent level is all part of the experience.

I opted for the Enduro. Being a smaller guy (5'9" 165#) I didn't feel the need for extra track. And knowing that my bike (2015 WR 450) wasn't a power house, I didn't want to tax the engine any more than needed. So far, I am super happy with it's capabilities. Not going to lie - there is a difference between where I can go and where the TS LT can go, but I still get there just as easy as the TS ST. When switching between bikes, the rolling resistance is immediately noticeable. On my bike, you can pull in the clutch and coast where as on the TS it feels like you are using the brakes as soon as you let off the throttle. Again, it feels more like a bike...

In my opinion, there is no better value than this kit. All of the guys I have dealt with at Moto Trax have been extremely helpful, and yes, they still answer the phones and are willing to talk to you!!! They mad a HUGE step forward from 2016 to 2017 with number of units manufactured/sold and every company would have had the same growing pains that they have experienced. Bottom line is that these guys have created a good, quality product and stand behind it. The logistics will get ironed out.

Thanks Moto Trax!

Have fun out there!

 

[Norma Stitz]

All good points and I agree. I will say my kit had several fasteners that were not even close to tightness from factory. So, new owners are advised to go over every damn bolt to check and see.
The ski has washed out on me a few times in powder which left me a little curious if it's a setup problem or a riding skill problem or ? Several time spent in deep pow when I was poaching another track the bike would tip over and despite having the handlebars locked all the way to the right the bike wouldn't get under me and I tipped over. This was a little frustrating and I'm not sure how to remedy that. It's like the bike won't carve when leaned hard. More throttle?

Several people have broken the aluminum pivot thing at the rear cross strut thing. The plastic bushings also grenade and they sent an aluminum bushing to replace them. Well, that's all well and good except the fact that now I'm aluminum on aluminum rubbing all day. This is poor design. There are aluminum bushings which are coated inside with a material called frelon. This would be a better solution but these are pricey bushings.

These guys have a great product and I'm only hoping that their business practices don't overshadow the good work they have done so far. They are at the right place and the right time with a kit that is substantially less expensive for now at least. These are the good points. Big players in the game now will crush them if they are not vigilant and keep costs down.

Also regarding LT vs ST, I have a 120 enduro and while in deep pow I'm certain that the lt will walk away from me, I witnessed the 120 actually get better traction on other surfaces like soft packed snow and smaller powder. So, my assumption that longer is always more hook was wrong. For me at my weight the 120 is perfect.

I ordered a yeti ski which is custom tuned for the snowhawk and I will be trying it on my mototrax. Apparently the standard yeti ski was too aggressive on the snowhawks so they shaved down the center keel a little.
I'd like to hear a comparo of the standard yeti ski on the mototrax but I'm guessing it won't be much different than it is on a timbersled. I wanted the custom tune for the hawk because it will be living on the hawk I'm guessing. If it's way better on the enduro then I may get a second one for that bike. I won't pay extra for the ugly *** custom colors though lol.

 

[byeatts]

All good points and I agree. I will say my kit had several fasteners that were not even close to tightness from factory. So, new owners are advised to go over every damn bolt to check and see.
The ski has washed out on me a few times in powder which left me a little curious if it's a setup problem or a riding skill problem or ? Several time spent in deep pow when I was poaching another track the bike would tip over and despite having the handlebars locked all the way to the right the bike wouldn't get under me and I tipped over. This was a little frustrating and I'm not sure how to remedy that. It's like the bike won't carve when leaned hard. More throttle?

Several people have broken the aluminum pivot thing at the rear cross strut thing. The plastic bushings also grenade and they sent an aluminum bushing to replace them. Well, that's all well and good except the fact that now I'm aluminum on aluminum rubbing all day. This is poor design. There are aluminum bushings which are coated inside with a material called frelon. This would be a better solution but these are pricey bushings.

These guys have a great product and I'm only hoping that their business practices don't overshadow the good work they have done so far. They are at the right place and the right time with a kit that is substantially less expensive for now at least. These are the good points. Big players in the game now will crush them if they are not vigilant and keep costs down.

Also regarding LT vs ST, I have a 120 enduro and while in deep pow I'm certain that the lt will walk away from me, I witnessed the 120 actually get better traction on other surfaces like soft packed snow and smaller powder. So, my assumption that longer is always more hook was wrong. For me at my weight the 120 is perfect.

I ordered a yeti ski which is custom tuned for the snowhawk and I will be trying it on my mototrax. Apparently the standard yeti ski was too aggressive on the snowhawks so they shaved down the center keel a little.
I'd like to hear a comparo of the standard yeti ski on the mototrax but I'm guessing it won't be much different than it is on a timbersled. I wanted the custom tune for the hawk because it will be living on the hawk I'm guessing. If it's way better on the enduro then I may get a second one for that bike. I won't pay extra for the ugly *** custom colors though lol.

The Yeti ski you talk about, Is it just a shallower center runner?I suppose it will fit all yeti skis?

 

[Norma Stitz]

Yes they shaved the center down a tad to make it bite less, and it has a custom mount that allows it to bolt up to the hawk spindle easily. It's a minor adjustment on the ski surface from what I gather. I think it's the actual ski plastic they mod not the runners, so it's not a thing that can be fitted to others

 

[rjj]

for the record, i am a moto-trax dealer. that being said, i have a responsibility to my customers, whether the verdict is good, bad, or ugly, so i'm not going to gloss over any issues that i think need to be discussed. here is my take:

in the shop:

-overall, the install instructions are pretty good but i would recommend the youtube videos on the moto-trax channel in addition to help clarify any questions.
-rear skid install is pretty straightforward and simple as there are no specific set of alignment bushings. the unit can be adjusted side-to-side depending on bike application. i recommend using a straight edge to align the main drive sprocket to the countershaft sprocket as opposed to "eyeballing" it.
-the strut rod needs to have threads on both ends (versus the stock one end solid - one end adjustable) for in-place adjustability. trying to adjust the strut length (which can create massively different handling characteristics) while full of snow on the trail is challenging to say the least.
-back bleeding the caliper can be a p.i.t.a. unless you have a lift. with the kit on the ground, i couldn't find an easy way to get at and physically see the bleed ports.
-the main drive chain adjustment is a bit of a process but works well. i like the chain adjusting idea using clamshells on the secondary drive chain but the spacing of the dimples either made for a too loose/too tight situation with my particular setup. once the break-in stretch becomes minimal, i don't see this as a problem. if you have to choose, loose is better. i snapped the original regina x ring mid-link. logic tells me the chain was too tight but my gut tells me it may have been a defective chain.
-the gas shock adjusters for the track work well but make sure to keep the axle tight or it will creep forward and ratchet.
-front forksaver and ski setup is as easy and fast to install as the stock wheel. unfortunately, the spacers sent didn't allow for the ski to be properly centered between the fork tubes. it can be "cheated" to center but the correct bushings are needed.
-according to my shop scale the complete kit installed weighed 332lbs on our 2014 yz450f full wet.


in the snow:

-rising rate rear suspension works as advertised. skid soaked up bigger hits without bottoming and for a shock with no clickers, was very progressive and very rideable.
-i didn't install the typical heavy fork springs. the stockers worked reasonably well with the compression maxed out but it makes sense to go to the stiffer springs for more adjustability.
-the ski was love/hate at first; great in powder and twitchy on the trail. lengthening the strut rod made the trail manners much better but the front end would wash out occasionally in the deeper snow. for grins, i tried a ts ski and spindle and even with the shorter strut rod, the handling was superior. i have a few more adjustments i want to try that hopefully will make the handling better with the stock ski. as currently set up, the stock ski and handling would be acceptable to 7 out of 10 riders but 10 out of 10 would be better.
-the rolling efficiency appears to be 1 gear better than our 2015 ts 137 with the 2" paddle. before getting flamed, it is understood that we are comparing a 129 to a 137 so that would account for some of the increase but in my opinion, it's takes significantly less power to turn. the seat of the pants feel and responsiveness of this kit in the trees begs you to get after it and flog away. in the upcoming weeks, we will see how it performs against the competition and i will let you know the results.

in closing, the moto-trax mountain is a player and rest assured, if you get one, it will be competitive. it has some items that need to be addressed but no manufacturer is currently making the "perfect" kit. as a company, moto-trax is experiencing some growing pains, as most newcomers in the snow travel industry do, but they still answer their phones and that speaks volumes. the product will keep getting better with time, as it has with the competition. well done guys!

jeff scott
scott-bilt racing llc

<iframe width="854" height="480" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/zOhvRuqB6SQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I have the MX129 and agree almost exactly with Scott's report. I have wrenched on my kit for 4 straight rides now and setup is paramount. The strut rod design is pain in the *** but every turn makes a drastic difference. I rate the ski a 7 now if TS ski is a 10. I have the road manners of the ski acceptable now but I like Norm having my front wash out in offroad situations. Kit is on an FC450 and I ran .58 in the forks last year on my TS120 which suited me fine. NOT THE CASE for the Mototrax. Put in my dirt springs .45 and a VAST improvement in handling. .47 are stock for this bike. I am a bit soft now but need a few more rides before I decide on what springs I am going to try next but whatever it is it will be not far off from stock weights. I am not sold on the 2" track yet maybe spring snow will change my mind. I have maybe 6 rides on kit and 4 of them I have been wrenching trying to improve my ride. Spit the track off 2times now, some loose bolts and a couple of quirky things about this kit (like the strut rod, track tensioner). Once dialed in this will be a whole different kit than my first ride on it. I will have some major seat time a 17 Yeti 129 in a couple of weeks and looking forward to trying it out.

 

[wwillf01]

So I find nimble wise and dirtbike feel wise it is awesome once off trail... I have years on a timbersled and about 20 hours on a camso...... Now set up is super important... For myself the road manners suck.... That is being easy on it... If I lighten the ski pressure it just slides left to right but still wants to follow ever so for snowmobile ski track on the road... I find it is more of figuring out how to keep the ski pressure constant... For me it changes drastically in the stroke so I was going to try a stiffer front spring setting to keep it more stable in the stroke... Do you find the more ski pressure it wants to follow other skis track or less?

Also the 2 inch track works great with a base....

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[rjj]

So I find nimble wise and dirtbike feel wise it is awesome once off trail... I have years on a timbersled and about 20 hours on a camso...... Now set up is super important... For myself the road manners suck.... That is being easy on it... If I lighten the ski pressure it just slides left to right but still wants to follow ever so for snowmobile ski track on the road... I find it is more of figuring out how to keep the ski pressure constant... For me it changes drastically in the stroke so I was going to try a stiffer front spring setting to keep it more stable in the stroke... Do you find the more ski pressure it wants to follow other skis track or less?

Also the 2 inch track works great with a base....

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Lengthening the strut rod is adding more ski pressure and I find it making the front end too heavy feeling and slow to turn offroad. Really wears me out in the trees especially following in another track but helps on the road riding and is LESS twitchy on the road. My setup today is less road comfort but good bike like handling offroad. I will be in McCall in a couple of weeks and Mototrax is there with Demo's. Excited to ride a "set up" Mototrax and decide if I will be working on a better setup or springing for a TS ski. Long winded answer sorry - more ski pressure equals better road handling but poor offroad. Less ski pressure equals twitchy road handling but good offroad bike feel. These are my findings.

 

[scottbilt95]

EDIT: my friend said I MUST go to stiffer springs or air assist springs for a snowbike. I already have stiffer springs in my KTM 500 EXC because I'm a big tall dude. Will I need to go stiffer?

Your the second person I have heard say that the mototrax does ok without super stiffened up front forks

if you're a bigger guy (200 plus gear) i think you gotta go heavy springs even if just normal roosting around. i weigh 170 plus gear and where i want the stiffer spring is mainly driving hard into a jump/hit and trying to get some preload. right now, even at max compression, the forks absorb too much of the lip and not only do you not get any "pop", when the rear hits the lip it gives you a mule kick.

 

[scottbilt95]

All good points and I agree. I will say my kit had several fasteners that were not even close to tightness from factory. So, new owners are advised to go over every damn bolt to check and see.
The ski has washed out on me a few times in powder which left me a little curious if it's a setup problem or a riding skill problem or ? Several time spent in deep pow when I was poaching another track the bike would tip over and despite having the handlebars locked all the way to the right the bike wouldn't get under me and I tipped over. This was a little frustrating and I'm not sure how to remedy that. It's like the bike won't carve when leaned hard. More throttle?

Several people have broken the aluminum pivot thing at the rear cross strut thing. The plastic bushings also grenade and they sent an aluminum bushing to replace them. Well, that's all well and good except the fact that now I'm aluminum on aluminum rubbing all day. This is poor design. There are aluminum bushings which are coated inside with a material called frelon. This would be a better solution but these are pricey bushings.

These guys have a great product and I'm only hoping that their business practices don't overshadow the good work they have done so far. They are at the right place and the right time with a kit that is substantially less expensive for now at least. These are the good points. Big players in the game now will crush them if they are not vigilant and keep costs down.

Also regarding LT vs ST, I have a 120 enduro and while in deep pow I'm certain that the lt will walk away from me, I witnessed the 120 actually get better traction on other surfaces like soft packed snow and smaller powder. So, my assumption that longer is always more hook was wrong. For me at my weight the 120 is perfect.

I ordered a yeti ski which is custom tuned for the snowhawk and I will be trying it on my mototrax. Apparently the standard yeti ski was too aggressive on the snowhawks so they shaved down the center keel a little.
I'd like to hear a comparo of the standard yeti ski on the mototrax but I'm guessing it won't be much different than it is on a timbersled. I wanted the custom tune for the hawk because it will be living on the hawk I'm guessing. If it's way better on the enduro then I may get a second one for that bike. I won't pay extra for the ugly *** custom colors though lol.

i was fortunate that everything was loctite(d) properly on this unit. keep us posted on the yeti ski snowhawk version. that could be the ticket. the reason i haven't haven't really considered a standard yeti ski is the deep keel and i believe that's part of the issue with the moto trax ski.

 

[scottbilt95]

So I find nimble wise and dirtbike feel wise it is awesome once off trail... I have years on a timbersled and about 20 hours on a camso...... Now set up is super important... For myself the road manners suck.... That is being easy on it... If I lighten the ski pressure it just slides left to right but still wants to follow ever so for snowmobile ski track on the road... I find it is more of figuring out how to keep the ski pressure constant... For me it changes drastically in the stroke so I was going to try a stiffer front spring setting to keep it more stable in the stroke... Do you find the more ski pressure it wants to follow other skis track or less?

Also the 2 inch track works great with a base....

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

on this bike, the best trail manners so far were with the strut rod showing 3/4" of threads and the front forks slid to the stock position in the triples. if i weighed the skid approximately where the stock wheel would touch the ground, and then the same on the front, the front end was about 15lbs lighter; pretty close to being balanced but a little light on the front. i will tell you that even set up like this, the stock ski deep keel will still seek out ruts in hard pack but it's manageable.

 

[scottbilt95]

more ski pressure equals better road handling but poor offroad. Less ski pressure equals twitchy road handling but good offroad bike feel. These are my findings.

amen brother.

 

[wwillf01]

amen brother.

I see where you are coming from but I almost think the more pressure the more it seeks out ruts ....But I leave on roads in my neighborhood that cars and sleds drive on so maybe my view is a little off... That middle keel loves following anything no matter if your in 4th or 1st... 4th is to dangerous.. but I know off trail it is on point so I am leaving it be. It is almost like because the ski is curved you have to lean a lot more to get 2 skags touching to gain control and the timbersled not as much... Even though I am running the same middle skag as the mototrax on the timbersled ...

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[Norma Stitz]

i was fortunate that everything was loctite(d) properly on this unit. keep us posted on the yeti ski snowhawk version. that could be the ticket. the reason i haven't haven't really considered a standard yeti ski is the deep keel and i believe that's part of the issue with the moto trax ski.

Talked with yeti today and turns out I'm wrong about the yeti snowhawk ski being different that the regular yeti ski. They are the same ski they just made it less aggressive with the special mounting for the snowhawk. So, I'll be trying that ski on my mototrax too, just need to buy the other mount. He didn't know if the best option for mototrax is the "for timbersled" version or the "for yeti" version but the differences are in the rubber bumper only.

 

[chumbilly1]

I am impressed with the capabilities of the moto trax from what I have seen, however I watched my buddy wash out severely on a downhill, committed, powder line twice. I was concerned about following but had no choice due to steepness of slope. When I went for it I had complete control and actually turned uphill out of rut. I was on a yeti. Seems like ski was to blame. I also witnessed the mule kick mentioned earlier. The one I saw was caused by crossing a frozen berm and resulted in an endo. First time I have seen this on snowbike. 2" track worked much better than I expected, and it appears that rolling resistance is minimal. Great to see all these amazing machines out there getting after it!

 

[wwillf01]

Washing out in powder is 100 percent set up... Been through it... Also if the forks are way to soft... I can rail u turns all day long in 3rd to 4th... Also I find that the mototrax needs gas on turns to keep you ski planted... Almost like dragging you front brake on turns with a tire .. that's my 2 cents

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[chumbilly1]

Washing out in powder is 100 percent set up... Been through it... Also if the forks are way to soft... I can rail u turns all day long in 3rd to 4th... Also I find that the mototrax needs gas on turns to keep you ski planted... Almost like dragging you front brake on turns with a tire .. that's my 2 cents

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The situation I was trying to describe was unique, more like hardcore ski lines than typical snowbike terrain. Our fault, but great fun. Forks were probably too soft. What setup recommendations would you have?

 

[wwillf01]

So I am on a 250fx... Trying to figure it out... I ended up taking the stock rod setting then sliding the triple clamps almost as low as they could go before hitting the handlebars... The firm it up as much as possible... That worked well for powder... .. it still sits pretty high in the rear... Almost more than my t sled... But to me it is soooooooooo nimble in comparison... Much more MX like .. now when it was on the beta xtrainer. The forks were so soft I never could get it to stop washing out... So I think the firmness needs to be dialed in.

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[J&L Snowhawk]

I use yeti ski on my custom bikes with Moto trax skids. Great ski on groomed trails and deep pow. Bad in crusty snow. Played just a bit with Moto trax ski. Not too fond of it. Poor trail manners no real deep snow experience. Mounted a TS ski on one to test this weekend.