• I am getting worn out moving your "For sale" threads, including loosely veiled sales pitches for "How much is it worth) or Wanted to buy to the swapmeet.

    I will no longer be moving them for you as I have been in the past.

    Some days are 20 per day.

    If I see it, it will get deleted.

    I try to help you...please try to help me.

    Thanks.
  • I've received emails and PM's asking me about "Group Buys" and promotions.

    A Group Buy here on SnoWestOnline.com would be a situation where a normal member (non vendor or mfg) personally collects orders from other members. That member then uses those orders to negotiate a better price with the Vendor/Mfg for HIS/HER "Group" of buyers.

    Here is an example of a viable "Group Buy"

    http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=269222

    A promotion that has the words "Group Buy" in the title is still a promotion, and from the rules that were handed down to me by Harris Publications is that non-advertisers cannot run promotions or open sales programs on the forums outside of the swapmeet.

    If a members wants to become a group buy manager, maintain a thread and collect the funds and negotiate a group buy... as a member, you are welcome to do that as long as you are not attached to the business of the vendor or Mfg.

    If you are a vendor/MFG and you want to offer an EXCLUSIVE "SnoWestOnline ONLY" promotion that is exclusive to snowest readers, please contact me and you'll be able to put it up in the Polaris forums.

    Also, before any vendors/mfgs get all "riled up" over this know that the moderators are strictly volunteers and do not receive a dime from any advertising $$ spent on this site.

    As ALWAYS, since DAY ONE of me becoming a moderator, I have pioneered, supported and encouraged vendors and mfgs in getting the word out to our readers with "New Product Announcements.

    Have a great season.

    From this point on, all vendors/mfg's promoting Pre-Season tiered sales programs, in the Polaris Forums, that are not paid advertisers will be appropriately moved to the swapmeet section of the forums.

    MH

in need of help with 99 rmk 700

Jan 11, 2008
29
0
1
i have 700 that ran great as a 136,when i converted to 151 it developed a problem.only thing diff was i didn't put a taillight on it yet.
it fires up cold great, always,but riding down the trail it feels like it shuts off,but will idle fine.if i let it idle-it will take off great for 30 seconds then do it again.
i cleaned water out of the tank the first time this happened-had tank all apart checked in tank filter(screen),line,vent,new inline filter,dismantled pump-no crap in it.
unplugged temp sender-unplugged accs lines,no change.
i,m gonna check stator resistance values and install a taillight-anything else to look for?thanks in advance!i've learned a ton on here and appreciate it.
 
Jun 7, 2008
153
10
18
I believe an unplugged temp sensor is the same as if its reading over-temp and puts it in "limp mode"... I think you have to jumper the sensor wires to test...they sell one @ startinglineproducts.com, some guys on here might have better insight than me so good luck
 

vwsprite

Member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 20, 2008
102
17
18
45
mazama, wa
the temp sensor in the 99 only turned on the light, what do your plugs say? sounds like bad fuel or clogged main, that water might be in the carbs
 

sykosledhead

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
195
49
28
Dayton, WY
Paddle clearance

This sounds crazy but I do know if the clearance of your paddle is too little, it will feel like you hit the brakes. I had this happen to me. I had to R&D the chaincase to increase clearance.

syko
 
Jan 11, 2008
29
0
1
still fighting with the 700,rebuilt fuel pump,went thru clutches-prim needed weight bushings and pins,new spring.still lays down after riding for a bit,but idling is affected,it will clean up after a bit(30 secs?)then run great.float bowls emptying out,then refilled?primary clutch hanging up,then releasing?what does an ACCS act like when it goes bad?thanks for help and patience!
 
Last edited:

05rmksteve

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Sep 5, 2008
1,633
604
113
Brainerd, MN
I'm kind of having the same issue with a 99 rmk 700. Runs great for a few minutes then acts like it's dropping a cylinder. I've cleaned carbs, checked reeds, changed stator, changed cdi/coil, new plugs, fresh gas, by passed accs and primer still same issue.
 

05rmksteve

Well-known member
Staff member
Lifetime Membership
Sep 5, 2008
1,633
604
113
Brainerd, MN
Plugged the port on the mag side carb. The one that goes to the bottom port on the accs valve. Then remove the hoses at the t. Left the 2 lines that come from each side of the carb hooked to the t. Did that to both carbs the ports are vents so they shouldn't be plugged.
If you run it like this for a period of time than yes you should rejet. But running the accs bypassed just for testing I wouldn't worry about rejeting.
 

jim

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
921
551
93
Boise
Sounds like overheating limp mode. Check to see if the thermostat is opening...that era used cheap thermostats that easily failed. I rebuilt my buddies 2003 800 and when we started it up, could not get the coolant to flow. We figured it was an air lock. Turned out it was a stuck/bad thermostat. This could explain why it limps until it cools back down.

Did you drain the coolant for any reason? Air lock or bubble?

Also, sometimes to water pump belt will fail...and there is no coolant flow...same outcome.

Check the tunnel and make sure the coolant is flowing...it should be warm through the tunnel coolers. And check the head...if the coolant isn't flowing, the head get really hot.
 

frntflp

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 29, 2007
299
79
28
Plymouth, MN
Sounds like my 98 700. Idled fine, bogged out at speed after a short distance and somewhat random. Eventually found that one of the float pins had worn its hole in the float support post, oblong or out of round. This caused the pin to sit offset, and the float at an angle such that it couldn't move up and down correctly. In my case, float didn't drop to allow enough fuel when under power. Took a while to figure out, but after taking a carb from a fully running, same motor and putting into mine, problem found. Apparently Keihin carbs had a reputation for this issue. New/used carb and good to go.
 

retiredpop

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Jul 3, 2001
1,112
237
63
Calgary
Yeah, Keihin carbs were noted for wear issues after a lot of use. Not one of Polaris' best ideas to use them instead of Mikunis.
 
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