HEADS UP TO THOSE WITH 2013/14 THAT ARE NOT RUNNING HEADLIGHTS

[S.Diddy]

MH - I just got an extra VR in the mail from WPS yesterday!! I am going to PM you for some info on where to put it lol

Phatty - Thanks for your valuable input ...I'm new at this, didn't get the memo, theres gonna be valuable info here for pro-ride section members. You deleted your headlight on the 11' and still your warmers went out?

Thought it wasn't supposed to do that on 11-12

 

[mountainhorse]

Phatty,

First... check to see that the warmer-connectors are securely plugged-in at the switches and also at the chassis harness.

Next...check the AC voltage at the headlight sockets that you disconnected ... brown and dark-green/yellow with switch on low beam.

Plug one headlamp bulb into one socket (dont touch the bulb itself with your bare fingers...this will put a bit of load on the circuit.

If that is not reading approx 14.5 Volts AC with the sled running... then replace the voltage regulator. If it tests ok... you should look for a shorted wire in the grip heaters.

Either way... Install the load resistor and you should be fine. You would tap into the the headlight connector with the plug I gave you the numbers for earlier.

Good luck.

As far as the members sled builds... I thought it was refreshing to see S.D. "go off" on a sled... and then PRO RMK readers can see whats up.

Kind of like Ryan Harris putting up his sled build in the General forum.

Good luck with the wiring ... call me if you need any help.




MH

 

[mountainhorse]

S.D.

It can still "fry" the regulator on an 11/12... just not as big of an issue on that since it is separate and does not have a good chance of taking out the ECU regulator at the same time.

On an 11/12... if you remove your headlights... install a resistor like shown above... You have to mount that to the tunnel or other metal as a heat sink... DON'T zip-tie it to the wiring harness.



.

 

[phatty]

Phatty,

First... check to see that the connectors are securely plugged-in at the switches and also at the chassis harness.

Next...check the AC voltage at the headlight sockets that you disconnected ... brown and dark-green/yellow with switch on low beam.

If that is not reading approx 14.5 Volts AC with the sled running... then replace the voltage regulator. If it tests ok... you should look for a shorted wire in the grip heaters.

Either way... Install the load resistor and you should be fine. You would tap into the the headlight connector with the plug I gave you the numbers for earlier.

Good luck.

As far as the members sled builds... I thought it was refreshing to see S.D. go off on a sled... and then PRO RMK readers can see whats up.

Kind of like Ryan Harris putting up his sled build in the General forum.

Good luck with the wiring ... call me if you need any help.




MH

sounds good, will get myself a VR and install it. also i am moving my blowhole from DC to AC with a converter, shouldnt have any more issues once i have extra turbo stuff and HID light on the system should I?

 

[mountainhorse]

The easiest and "cleanest" way to hook up the load resistors is to buy the connectors and pins that will allow you to simply plug into one of the existing unused headlight connectors that normally connects to the headlight bulb.

If you want to tap into the headlight in a "clean" way... buy the connector and have a plug/play without cutting up the harness.

Run the brown wire to one side of the resistor... solder it on the resistor and use heat shrink tube over it... then run two wires from the other side of the resistor and run that into the connector for the yellow/red and dark-green/yellow wires.. that way... if you bump your high beam switch, you are not disconnecting the resistor.

==================================================
$10 get you 2 connectors and 6 pins (you'll have extras to help friends!!) Includes shipping from USA.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230621816441

.

 

[mountainhorse]

As a side note:

If you have a Boondocker Turbo with the fan for the intercooler... you will not need to run resistor as the fan pulls enough power from the lighting circuit....But I would still run the separate VR for an extra margin of reliability.






.

 

[mountainhorse]

TTT.

Good info if your factory 2013 Lighting side of the regulator dies...

If you still have your functioning headlights intact... you would not need the resistors.

With the pigtail above... you should be able to tuck this VR between the stock VR and the oil tank...

You MUST mount it to a good piece of aluminum to act as a heat-sink.

 

[die hard poo]

TTT, has anyone done this mod on their 13/14? I am doing a headlight delete on my 14' with my turbo. I am not sure if I am going to do the VR or the resistor. I like the price of the resistor, but what size resistor is everybody running? And the people that mounted the VR, were they able to mount them on the clutch cover? Thanks

 

[tdorval]

What turbo accessories are you running? Some of the newer kits have no real extra draw on the system. Funny you brought this to the top btw. I was just looking at it an PM'd MH a few questions.

 

[die hard poo]

I am running the 14' silber kit with the bullydog. So the only accessories is the oil pump on the DC side. And when the oiless center section is available, I will be getting that and dumping the oil system. The reason I am running the headlight delete is for the extra weight loss to compensate some of the weight gain from the turbo and also for more ventilation. I was shopping on ebay and found the "warning cancellation modules" for the H13 bulbs. Basically a resistor already wired up for vehicles that install HIDs into their cars and needs more load to prevent flickering or a "bulb out light". These maybe the easiest and cheapest way to do this if there is enough resistance. They seem to be a 50W resistor. Should be enough if you do both.
Here is the link
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HID-Xenon-H...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f22b1628f&vxp=mtr

 

[tdorval]

I saw MH recommended a 2 ohm 100W resistor. Do you know the specs on that, i looked quick but didn't see it. Not sure how important the ohm part is in all of this I guess. Hopefully some electrical nut will chime in!

 

[bootz1981]

I saw MH recommended a 2 ohm 100W resistor. Do you know the specs on that, i looked quick but didn't see it. Not sure how important the ohm part is in all of this I guess. Hopefully some electrical nut will chime in!

the ohm part is very important, this is not a perfect way to say it but here goes, the 100W part mean how much the resistor can handle with out burning out, the ohm part is how many amps the resistor will "dump" so to speak

 

[die hard poo]

From other like this one, they are 50W resistors. Ohm is just how they measure resistance. So if they are 50W resistors and we know there is 14.5v in the system, it can derived that the resistors are 4.2ohm. Amperage=Watt/voltage, 50W/14.5V= 3.44amp.
Ohm=Voltage/amperage, 14.5V/3.44a= 4.2ohm. So we can have 100W total resistance with these assuming they use this resistor.

 

[bootz1981]

heres where i got my resistor, lots to chose from.


http://www.sun-pec.com/home/wwr-100w-xx-1

 

[die hard poo]

Looks like the H13/9008 bulb is around 65W each bulb. So 50W resistors should be close to the stock light bulb wattage... I would rather not tax the electrical system too much with 100w resistors.

 

[tdorval]

Maybe you just run one resistor if you go 100W.

 

[die hard poo]

Ya you could just run one 100W resistor, but I want to buy a plug/play for mine. I think Ill order up these and hope they work lol

 

[bootz1981]

Maybe you just run one resistor if you go 100W.

yep, just 1 resistor, of you use 2 50w resistors, then the need to be wired in parallel and then be 4ohm, i personally dont think that the 50w would last but it all depends where you have it mounted and how good its dissipating heat. and a word of advise, use heat sink grease, makes a hell of a diff

 

[die hard poo]

Just plug one in each socket. The sled has two headlight bulbs...

 

[bootz1981]

100w 2ohm is the proper resistor, just cause a 50w resistor is close to the 60w high or 55w low on our head lights dosnt mean it will work properly, with those headlight cancel things on ebay you shared a link to, whats the watts or ohms, from the looks to me the arnt near enough resistor to do a proper job, the one i posted link to is 3 inches long and inch wide and has built in heat sink with fins. i am by no mean an expert with electrical or a Polaris pro, i had a electrician for a living figure out what resistor i need and he said to go with a 100w 2ohm just like MH said. its your sled do as you wish, but i think you will run into problems with those things from ebay