G
gjp
Well-known member
I installed the 19/50 gear kit (pn: 1702-335 $50). Kit comes with gears and oil. Very easy job. Took less than 2 hours.
Special Tool needed:
Locking Pin Pliers / Snap Ring Pliers
I purchased for $16 at Princess Auto (pn: 8006659) link
Instructions
Step 1: Remove side panels, hood, seat, bat wing cowl, and your can/muffler.
Step 2: Remove the right foot well bracket.
4 screws: T25 on the running board support tube and 2 T20s below running boards.
Step 3: Cut the zip tiE holding the sensor wires to the chaincase. Remove the T30 screws that hold the chain case cover to the actual chain case. (Do not remove the screws for the oil case.)
To remove the bottom 2 screws, there are access holes in the plastic guard underneath the running boards
Step 4: Move the cover/oil tank assembly to the side and leave it connected. It will sit in the can/muffler area.
Step 5: Lock your brake and remove the 10mm bolt holding the top sprocket in place. Remove top sprocket and chain.
Step 6: Remove the locking pin holding the bottom gear in place with your new pliers. Expand it enough to slip out of the groove and slid it out. Remove the bottom gear.
Inspect tensioner for wear. Replace if worn out. Mine was good. Clean out the case. I also had NO metal filings in 2200km. Nice.
Step 7: Now the tricky part - putting the chain back on.
To make it easier, do not push the bottom gear all the way in. I place the locking clip in the outside groove so gear won't pop off.
Now place the new top gear in the chain and slid the chain under the bottom gear. While holding the chain, using your other hand, grab the chain tensioner and make sure it is in the loosest position and part way off. (see pic)
Suck up the chain so it is snug around the bottom gear (making sure bottom gear is as far out as possible) Try sliding the top gear over the drive shaft. It probably wont match up on the first try. Inspect it for alignment with the teeth. You can move your secondary clutch back/forth slightly till the teeth line up (this is were a 2nd person comes in handy). Have some patience and you will eventually get it. (Alone, it took about 5 minutes)
Step 8: Slide gears in all the way and stretch locking pin to inner groove so gear is snug. Slid tensioner in and push down on chrome clicker and place it in the tension guard. (Don't worry about the tension position - it will self/auto adjust)
Step 9: Blue locktite the 10 mm top sprocket bolt and torque to 25 ft-lbs.
Step 10: Slide the cover over and reinstall torx screws in a criss-cross pattern. Torque to 12 ft-lbs.
Step 11: pour the 15 oz of Chaincase oil in. (15 oz will fill higher than the sight glass. I was told by an A/C mechanic to stay between 1/2 and 3/4 of the sight glass??? Maybe when it is spun for a bit the chain will suck up some of the oil and decrease the level to 3/4 on the sight glass)
Step 12: reinstall foot well bracket and the rest of your hood, panels, etc...
Your ready to rip.
Special Tool needed:
Locking Pin Pliers / Snap Ring Pliers
I purchased for $16 at Princess Auto (pn: 8006659) link
Instructions
Step 1: Remove side panels, hood, seat, bat wing cowl, and your can/muffler.
Step 2: Remove the right foot well bracket.
4 screws: T25 on the running board support tube and 2 T20s below running boards.
Step 3: Cut the zip tiE holding the sensor wires to the chaincase. Remove the T30 screws that hold the chain case cover to the actual chain case. (Do not remove the screws for the oil case.)
To remove the bottom 2 screws, there are access holes in the plastic guard underneath the running boards
Step 4: Move the cover/oil tank assembly to the side and leave it connected. It will sit in the can/muffler area.
Step 5: Lock your brake and remove the 10mm bolt holding the top sprocket in place. Remove top sprocket and chain.
Step 6: Remove the locking pin holding the bottom gear in place with your new pliers. Expand it enough to slip out of the groove and slid it out. Remove the bottom gear.
Inspect tensioner for wear. Replace if worn out. Mine was good. Clean out the case. I also had NO metal filings in 2200km. Nice.
Step 7: Now the tricky part - putting the chain back on.
To make it easier, do not push the bottom gear all the way in. I place the locking clip in the outside groove so gear won't pop off.
Now place the new top gear in the chain and slid the chain under the bottom gear. While holding the chain, using your other hand, grab the chain tensioner and make sure it is in the loosest position and part way off. (see pic)
Suck up the chain so it is snug around the bottom gear (making sure bottom gear is as far out as possible) Try sliding the top gear over the drive shaft. It probably wont match up on the first try. Inspect it for alignment with the teeth. You can move your secondary clutch back/forth slightly till the teeth line up (this is were a 2nd person comes in handy). Have some patience and you will eventually get it. (Alone, it took about 5 minutes)
Step 8: Slide gears in all the way and stretch locking pin to inner groove so gear is snug. Slid tensioner in and push down on chrome clicker and place it in the tension guard. (Don't worry about the tension position - it will self/auto adjust)
Step 9: Blue locktite the 10 mm top sprocket bolt and torque to 25 ft-lbs.
Step 10: Slide the cover over and reinstall torx screws in a criss-cross pattern. Torque to 12 ft-lbs.
Step 11: pour the 15 oz of Chaincase oil in. (15 oz will fill higher than the sight glass. I was told by an A/C mechanic to stay between 1/2 and 3/4 of the sight glass??? Maybe when it is spun for a bit the chain will suck up some of the oil and decrease the level to 3/4 on the sight glass)
Step 12: reinstall foot well bracket and the rest of your hood, panels, etc...
Your ready to rip.
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