FRONT SUSPENSION/STEERING REBUILD ON 2006 2500HD D-MAX QUESTIONS

[mountainhorse]

OK.

My work truck is an '06 2500HD. 125K miles.. all original steering/suspension except for new rancho RS9000XL shocks.

Stock suspension, No level kits, stock keys/bar-settings. Stock tires/wheels.

Front end is getting loose.

Will replace Idler arm, Idler bracket, Pitman Arm, damper, tie rods, tie rod ends, lower ball joints, lower arm bushings, upper a-arms, hubs, tie rod sleeves.

Anyone with experience with Moog HD series Pitman/idler arms?

Hub/bearing recommendations?

How hard to replace bushings and ball joint on the lower?

Super steer idler bracket... Needed on a stock spec truck?

Real Parts has been getting some press on their extreme-duty Pitman/Idler arms.
Anyone with experience on these? (they have an anti-roll feature for the Idler)
http://rareparts.com/gm-steering

Also...Cognito has their Pitman/Idler brace kit...wondering if that is worth the money or overkill on a stock spec truck?
http://www.cognitomotorsports.com/pitman-idler-support-kit.html

Any input you have based on experience with this truck and parts...or any special tips... much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Eric








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[Bedhead]

Sounds like a lot of work! But I have been doing this professionally since 1999 and am past the stage of any of this being fun. Are you sure you want to go to those lengths? Or how about finding where the play or looseness is and attacking that first? As far as the add on supports, your truck made it this long without them, does it need it? But maybe someone who has used them will jump in and say otherwise. As far as tips on doing any of it? Its all pretty straight forward stuff. You will need a ball joint press for those lower ball joints and possibly for the control arm bushings. But I have never come across a worn out lower arm bushing on a GM truck. You will have to hammer out the torsion bars to get the lower arms out which equals resetting your ride height when all done. If you can wrench and have access to some tools (also ambition) Go for it!

For the hub/bearings Moog makes some long lasting ones but they will cost ya.

 

[AndrettiDog]

I did a full front rebuild on my 2006 LBZ that I sold. The stock stuff is pretty slim and flimsy compared to the heavy duty stuff. I used the Cognito kit and it was stout. I eventually wore out those ball joints too. I was hauling a Lance camper that was 3800 lbs!

Now I have a 2007 LBZ and I'm looking to add shocks, brake job, tie rods, ball joints and wheel bearings. I'm looking at the same kit as you. It has good reviews as does the Kryptonite items. What I have found in my research is that you want to stay with Timken even though it costs more. I've heard of guys installing the cheaper ones and only seeing them last 30k or less.

 

[SRXSRULE]

I LOVE rebuilding truck front ends! Big bucks, and easy money I bet Ive paid for several sleds and a few race cars from chevy, ford, and dodge front ends.

That being said, its alot harder to get quality parts now. I never use any of the specialty parts because I just dont have time to order that stuff in. I use the best quality parts that the local parts stores stock and all of those will have a lifetime warranty on them.

I doubt your lower control arm bushings are worn. Only time I ever replace those is on plow trucks that are beat to crap. Plus they suck to change and I almost always have to use the shop press to change those out. If you really want to change them, you might be money ahead doing complete control arms (since your doing ball joints anyway).

If you decide to go with stock parts.... Check Amazon and rock auto. Both of those places almost always beat my wholesale pricing from the local parts stores.

I also wouldnt replace the wheel bearings unless yours are loose or noisy.
I would check and see whats actually loose and go from there. It likely needs the idler and pitman arm, tie rods, and ball joints.

Make sure you have a pitman arm puller before you get started. GM ball joints are by far the easiest of the big 3 so most any ball joint press should work. Have fun Eric

 

[mountainhorse]

Great info guys.

Thank you for the help so far !!!

Love this place for that.

The pit, idler, and tie rods have slop in them as does the lower ball joint on the pass side. ... I'm leaning towards just using good quality parts from Amazon... they have good deals on the moog HD stuff...and I can get it all for about 575.

I'll probably stay away from putting the lower bushings in... stock truck.... not much HD abuse... so I'll save some time that way...

Is it possible to leave torsion under tension... or does that need to be released from the key ( I have a torsion tool )??


Thanks in advance.

 

[SRXSRULE]

Great info guys.

Thank you for the help so far !!!

Love this place for that.

The pit, idler, and tie rods have slop in them as does the lower ball joint on the pass side. ... I'm leaning towards just using good quality parts from Amazon... they have good deals on the moog HD stuff...and I can get it all for about 575.

I'll probably stay away from putting the lower bushings in... stock truck.... not much HD abuse... so I'll save some time that way...

Is it possible to leave torsion under tension... or does that need to be released from the key ( I have a torsion tool )??


Thanks in advance.

If you dont replace the lower control arm bushings you wont have to do anything with the torsion bars. The shocks are going to hold your lower control arm in place, but your still going to want to put a jack stand under the lower arm before you separate the upper ball joint. Just place the stand where it wont be in the way for changing the ball joint. Eric

 

[AndrettiDog]

I also wouldnt replace the wheel bearings unless yours are loose or noisy.

I've been going back and forth on this. I've seen different opinions. My 2007 LBZ has 150k on it. Neither side's been replaced. I can't tell for sure but it seems like my driver side is bad. However, when I jack the truck up and shake the wheel in and out, both sides are tight. No moving. Is that the only test of the wheel bearing I can do?

 

[LoudHandle]

I've been going back and forth on this. I've seen different opinions. My 2007 LBZ has 150k on it. Neither side's been replaced. I can't tell for sure but it seems like my driver side is bad. However, when I jack the truck up and shake the wheel in and out, both sides are tight. No moving. Is that the only test of the wheel bearing I can do?

Far more than slop, rotate and listen to it. Any noise means they are on their way out.

I put off doing mine far too long and was running race to race with all the rollers bunched up on top. Makes a hell of a racket when you push them that far.

 

[SRXSRULE]

I've been going back and forth on this. I've seen different opinions. My 2007 LBZ has 150k on it. Neither side's been replaced. I can't tell for sure but it seems like my driver side is bad. However, when I jack the truck up and shake the wheel in and out, both sides are tight. No moving. Is that the only test of the wheel bearing I can do?

When checking for play you want to push/pull at the top and bottom of the tire, not side to side.
You can also run the vehicle with the tires off the ground and put a long metal rod or screw driver up against the steering knuckle where the bearing is mounted, then place that against your ear and listen for a growling / grinding sound. Compare side to side and see if one is bad.
Sometimes both of those tests will pass and you might still have a noisy bearing when its under the load of the vehicle.
You can also drive the truck at 20-30mph on a smooth road and swerve side to side. That will shift the vehicle load from the RF to the LF and the noise will come and go if you have a bad bearing.

Miles mean nothing to a wheel bearing... Ive seen originals last 20k miles and 250k miles. I also dont believe in changing both sides if you have one thats bad. Lots of places try and sell you 2 or 4 because they make money on them and its an easy job! The truth is you could change the bad one and the other side lasts another 5 yrs. Im a strong believer in preventive maintenance but this really isnt one of those things. Eric

 

[mountainhorse]

I found the Timken Front hubs on
Amazon for $150 each including shipping... not bad...
Summit wanted $230 for the same part.... https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/tmk-sp580310
Local NAPA... $290.
Exact same part numbers.
http://a.co/7kOSWiJ

I like supporting my local business', but cant afford to in this case.

The AC/GM part is about $190 on Amazon, but $210 at NAPA....Seems Amazon has smokin deals on the Timkens and not as good on the GM.
http://a.co/0uYLk9R

Moog $145 on Amazon
http://a.co/gDBNY4F







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[mountainhorse]

I'm reading good things about the Rare Parts idler arm.. I like the anti-roll feature.

I'm leaning towards this Parts list. Stock 2500HD D-Max truck, stock tires.

Any input or critiques are welcome. Anything I'm missing?

Timken Hubs SP580310 - $150ea http://a.co/7kOSWiJ
Moog Pitman K6536HD - $68ea http://a.co/4FufRss
Rare parts Extreme duty idler arm RP20608 - $125 http://www.jegs.com/i/Rare-Parts/202/RP20608/10002/-1
Moog Idler arm bracket K6723 - $35 http://a.co/68wfdek
Moog Inner Tie rods ES3488 - $33ea http://a.co/5H6GG1o
Moog outer Tie Rods ES3609 - $48ea http://a.co/9tJRjsL
Moog upper arms CK620054 - $73ea http://a.co/0HCeLdm
Rough Country Tie Rod Sleeves 1144 - $30/pair http://a.co/cRZ7OJ8
Moog Lower ball joints K6693 - $32ea http://a.co/it2i5E7
Energy Suspension 3.5213R sway bar bushing set - $39 http://a.co/dr8Vzun

Most items show some wear at my 125k miles, just checked the hubs and both seem to be a little loose... So I just want to get it out of the way.

Glad I dont have to pull the lower arms off.... the bushings there DO look ok.

I'm probably going to lower the rear of the truck with BellTech 3" Shackles, http://a.co/bW4IUxb , to level it since I have a Kelderman air ride in the rear to compensate for load... and also do new rear leaf spring bushings from ProThane http://a.co/5VwO0o2
and rear spring sliders http://www.jegs.com/i/Trail-Gear/542/110120-1-KIT/10002/-1 ... I cant believe that those are worn as bad as they are.




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[SRXSRULE]

I found the Timken Front hubs on
Amazon for $150 each including shipping... not bad...
Summit wanted $230 for the same part.... https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/tmk-sp580310
Local NAPA... $290.
Exact same part numbers.
http://a.co/7kOSWiJ

I like supporting my local business', but cant afford to in this case.

The AC/GM part is about $190 on Amazon, but $210 at NAPA....Seems Amazon has smokin deals on the Timkens and not as good on the GM.
http://a.co/0uYLk9R

Moog $145 on Amazon
http://a.co/gDBNY4F







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Thats a good bearing. Timken and SKF I think are the only 2 that even sell made in the USA bearings.
That timken bearing is 130.79 on Rock Auto, plus its easy to get a 5% off code for rock auto, just google it, or I can look back at an order and find a discount code for you. The discount code will usually cover the shipping charges. Almost all of these parts are cheaper.... The idler bracket is higher though.

Timken Hubs SP580310 - $150ea http://a.co/7kOSWiJ ------ 130.79
Moog Pitman K6536HD - $68ea http://a.co/4FufRss ----- 58.79
Rare parts Extreme duty idler arm RP20608 - $125 http://www.jegs.com/i/Rare-Parts/202/RP20608/10002/-1
Moog Idler arm bracket K6723 - $35 http://a.co/68wfdek ------ 54.79 HIGHER
Moog Inner Tie rods ES3488 - $33ea http://a.co/5H6GG1o ------ 27.89
Moog outer Tie Rods ES3609 - $48ea http://a.co/9tJRjsL ------ 42.79
Moog upper arms CK620054 - $73ea http://a.co/0HCeLdm ------ 67.79
Rough Country Tie Rod Sleeves 1144 - $30/pair https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00B2AEMXI
Moog Lower ball joints K6693 - $32ea http://a.co/it2i5E7 ------ 32.79
Energy Suspension 3.5213R sway bar bushing set - $39 http://a.co/dr8Vzun

 

[AndrettiDog]

I'm looking at the same parts Eric. I planned to do Bilstein 5100 shocks on all four as well. I'm due for brakes to boot.

 

[SRXSRULE]

I'm looking at the same parts Eric. I planned to do Bilstein 5100 shocks on all four as well. I'm due for brakes to boot.

I put 5100's on my 14 1500 silverado when the truck only had 5,000 miles on it. The stock rancho shocks sucked, had no extension dampening. You would hit a pot hole and it felt like the truck just fell off a cliff! The bilsteins fixed that, but didnt soften the over all ride. These newer trucks (14+) just ride rougher then the 07-13 trucks did. Eric

 

[milehighassassin]

If you're going with an OEM piece, Moog makes good high quality steering parts. I'd stick with them for OEM replacement

 

[mountainhorse]

I appreciate all of the input above !!

I'm ordering the parts on Monday... I gave the local NAPA store a chance to come close to this price as I'd like to keep my business local... but best they could do was almost double the price....

The stock steering parts got me to the 100k mark before I noticed it getting a bit loose... so, for now I think my stock truck will do well with these good quality parts and more regular greasing.




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[PaulAnd]

If your changing control arm bushings, just replace the control arms, they come with balljoints!
https://www.amazon.com/Mevotech-MS50109-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/compatibility-chart/B001NZ0ODY
If your just replacing the lower balljoints, skip pressing them out thats a pita, I just hammer them out, press new BJ back in!
Take care of your caliper brackets while everything is apart! Sandblast and paint!

1year warranty hub bearings dont last!
Skf premium or world bearings are ok
Timken---> scared me away years ago, had lots of failures! Have no idea on todays quality..
Make sure you torque the wheel hub axle nut!