and i cant read any more posts after mine because i dont pay to post.
Then pay up
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and i cant read any more posts after mine because i dont pay to post.
For reasons I won't go into I will not be discussing my clutching issues on this thread in the future. My hard drive appears to be failing so I might not post much on this string for a while.
For reasons I won't go into I will not be discussing my clutching issues on this thread in the future. My hard drive appears to be failing so I might not post much on this string for a while.
For reasons I won't go into I will not be discussing my clutching issues on this thread in the future. My hard drive appears to be failing so I might not post much on this string for a while.
This "Example" information is for anyone curious of chasing out their calibration - Can start off with choosing BRP recommended clicker for the elevation. (#4 for 6k~12k)
Then in the riding area you are at where you need rated rpms the most; take a full throttle run and check rpms - what are they? 7400? 7700? 7600?
Know grams that are installed in the clutch. (BRP installed 12.4g pin + 12mm screw) = 14.1g
As per flyweight law; adjust pinweight to get the rated rpms.
1g = approximate 200 rpms at full throttle.
Example; observed 7600 at full throttle and need 8000
Then reduce pinweight by 2g.
Empty the pinweight down to 12.4g and go retest.
If the flyweight helped to get 7900 but not 8000 then can change out to pin #417222477 10.7g pin and add Qty-1 10mm setscrew to = 12.1g
10.7g pin and add Qty-1 8mm setscrew to = 11.7g
10.7g pin and add Qty-1 6mm setscrew to = 11.4g
Exhaust the current BRP calibration range to get the rpms correct.
Happy tuning
Joey
A poor choice of words, I will no longer post to this thread I started as I can no longer see the latest entries(free memebership). The string is now too long and the free membership will not allow me to see any new entries. I am posting in the blind, I have no idea what the last dozen entries say?
I will start a new string if I achieve any results from removing pin weight.
For me it's way more than just the money, it's an affront to me personally that you don't pay and support the site that gave you the info on the pin weights.
Rode 79.5 miles of mountain road today. 4-10" of new snow on packed base. Consumed 9.1 gal fuel(8.7mpg), just over 1/4 tank of oil in 2.2 hour ride. As we were told the fuel consumption is pretty heavy during break-in.
First pull starting with no choke is nice. I like the 36" front, but frankly I expected a bit more, I guess I can experiment with eliminating the sway bar again. Front shocks set at 2.
Rear suspension seems fine, although they have the center shock cranked down pretty tight from the factory, makes for a very light feel but it won't turn until you back off the center shock. It still wants to push more than I like in the turns.
The fit of the front hood actually works like it should.
I had my doubts about the placement for the dual intake being the solution for the bogging, but having seen it in person I think it will work most of the time, even for those really deep days the location makes for just a quick swipe of the hand to get things going.
It's hard to assess the motor or clutching just riding the road and still in "retard" mode. Throttle pull is some easier, the motor is all over the place, runs clean for a little while, then loads up some and kind of boggy. I will withhold my judgement on the motor for another 13 gallon of fuel. I left the clickers in 1, just to keep the rpms down road riding, but bucking 10" of wet snow she would only hold around 7300 rpm while still in retard mode. There is also a buzzy note from the motor I will get accustomed to, but don't really care for.
At idle it sounds more like a 4 stroke than a 2 stroke.
Dont look at 77~7800 as a problem, rather an opportunity.clicker 4-7700-7800 same
clicker 5-7900-8000 same
On clicker 5 it will hold where it is supposed to, but over revs (limiter) in the run up to the hill, or if you catch some firm snow or ground. Limiter is noticeable at around 8200, but brp is saying it begins to protect itself over 8000 and begins to cut the power back!
Which is why I'm thinking if I remove the pin weight and move to clicker 4, that would still allow me to pull 8000 without hitting the rev limiter.