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A2W intercooler build

Polarisrocks

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Well after several years of reading and learning about air to water intercoolers I wanted to post a tread with some of the stuff I've learned. I would love it if anyone who wants to add their experience post and keep this alive for the many who are wanting to learn.

What core to pick? Why?
What size of core?
How much coolant volume?
What pump?
How many gallons or liters per minute?
Separate heat exchanger or tie into the factory system?
What mixture in the system?
What times or turns on the pump?
 
What core to pick? Why? Bell a2w
What size of core? 4x3.9x15.5

How much coolant volume 1.3 gallons

What pump? Solar magnetic low 1.5 amp draw

How many gallons or liters per minute? 5 gallons per minute

Separate heat exchanger or tie into the factory system? large u tunnel cooler

What mixture in the system? 50/50 antifreeze and pure water

What times or turns on the pump? I plan on using the high beam head light button and that circuit to power pump.
 
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I have read a lot of pages in the automotive forums about coolant mixes. What to run? 50/50 antifreeze and water, 70/30 distilled water and methanol. What are most of you running? With antifreeze not having good heat transfer properties, and causing a 6% loss per 10% mixture what is the best choice for our sled application? Is salt water a good option as salt water can go well below 32 with our freezing. Distilled or pure water has the best heat transfer properties. If we are stuck with a 50/50 mix which yields 30% loss in coolant heat transfer, Do we have to size our cores 30% larger? Or is our coolant volume need to be 30% larger also?
 
frozen boost 3 inch barrel style, 8 psi at turbo outlet, 8 psi at carb bell. zero pressure drop.
15 psi at turbo outlet, 15 psi at carb bell. zero pressure drop.

antifreeze water 50 50 mix, dedicated 14 x 8 inch cooler in tunnel, charge temps at 8 psi, 48 F . Outdoor ambeint 31 F. conditions snow covered ice.

on hard packed icy days charge temp will climb to 68 - 70 degrees, on a 5/8ths mile wide open run. at 8 psi.

crankcase charge temps are higher than carb bell temps. fuel in cases absorbs heat from rotating reciprocating mass. it doesnt cool down after cold fuel is atomized..

keep on testing ..
 
I have a hard time believing that the HP gain per intake temp (10 degree per 1% HP) is a square graph. I could see at lower temps I could be the stander rule of thumb, but does it compound as the intake temp get hotter. 150 to 200 and plus??
 
redrider.
You are correct to a point. humidity has a larger effect.

Also warned a few top tuners last year of moisture issues in the charge if your tiny turbo is working so hard to achieve the flow then its cooled when it hits the fins producing moisture that leads them chasing tails for months or worse. explaining the damage to pistons from the moisture rich charge.

customers hate excuses ...lol

for the winter rider, consistent temps in the range of 60-80 f are easily achieved with low condensation issues if any when using a barrel or remote intercooler. airbox coolers make much more condensation than coolers placed further upstream. too cold is as bad as too hot.

as for pumps..how about zero amp draw ? no battery either. sometimes we make life harder than it has to be..lol it was right under our noses...

cant wait for snow...........
 
So I ride in western canada where the snow is deep..
So what better, drawing cold moist air from out side the hood where your filter and flowrite is allways pluged.,or warm moist air under the hood and run
just a fine screen. Warm air will work the W2A a little harder, but the turbo can at least get air.
It's a catch 22 out here..
As for water pumps, the one I got draws .4 of a amp so that 48 watts, dragion motors I think have a 500 watt stater.
 
Gus I went to frozen boosts site and did not see a 3 inch barrel type listed??
 
int000219 part number to look for
just checked before I typed.
3 inch in and out.

not trying to be a hardass ...LOL:face-icon-small-ton
 
So I ride in western canada where the snow is deep..
So what better, drawing cold moist air from out side the hood where your filter and flowrite is allways pluged.,or warm moist air under the hood and run
just a fine screen. Warm air will work the W2A a little harder, but the turbo can at least get air.
It's a catch 22 out here..
As for water pumps, the one I got draws .4 of a amp so that 48 watts, dragion motors I think have a 500 watt stater.

red be carefull, if you have a different ecu than stock polaris you will run into a stumble and gurgle issue at some point. the aftermarket ecu draws more than the system can produce when coupled with a coolant pump, larger fuel pump or other voltage draws that are external. one of those catch 22 reasons I choose NOT to go with the standalone till a unit with a higher output stator comes with it.

some think im an *** for picking on the ecu but there is always a reason. now that more are showing the problem its not just me being a dick.
 
red be carefull, if you have a different ecu than stock polaris you will run into a stumble and gurgle issue at some point. the aftermarket ecu draws more than the system can produce when coupled with a coolant pump, larger fuel pump or other voltage draws that are external. one of those catch 22 reasons I choose NOT to go with the standalone till a unit with a higher output stator comes with it.

some think im an *** for picking on the ecu but there is always a reason. now that more are showing the problem its not just me being a dick.

800 CFI-4,stock ECU,walbro 255, 2to1 fuel reg,no head lights, and a blinky fuel box works for me.
 
The best thing you can do Red is get it all hooked up and make sure the voltage is good to all the things you are adding at idle and at rpm.. A cheap voltage tester will tell you if it can handle the extra demand. I am using my head light circuit to power my system. I was considering a capacitor and rectifier since the headlight circuit is ac current on the cat.. Most pumps are dc current
 
red be carefull, if you have a different ecu than stock polaris you will run into a stumble and gurgle issue at some point. the aftermarket ecu draws more than the system can produce when coupled with a coolant pump, larger fuel pump or other voltage draws that are external. one of those catch 22 reasons I choose NOT to go with the standalone till a unit with a higher output stator comes with it.

some think im an *** for picking on the ecu but there is always a reason. now that more are showing the problem its not just me being a dick.
Do the Cat stators put out enough wattage to run the ECU? I don't know how their output compares to the Polaris' output. Thinking about trying a different ECU on my TM1000, since I can't get a Dobeck box to run clean. I will running low boost (4-8 lbs.), so probably won't be adding an A2W.
 
OK I'm thinking oh and remember mines a 09 is it still under my nose? Man thinking is hard hahaha oh and I'm using the stock oil pump to oil my turbo does that knock me out of the powerless pump?
 
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lmao..

not yet. that 09 will need a nipple., we all like nipples. we use an oem mikuni single outlet 85 liter 3/8th line size pulse pump. my trail turbo has 2. one for the cooler and a smaller 31 liter for the oil pump !!!

no voltage draw, 1.6 times more oil than the injection pump puts out, psi equal to boost plus 3 so its far away from low flow. the larger one moves plenty to keep my charge temps in line too. I do have a dedicated loop for the intercooler. it will take a while for some to realize how we missed that simple method .

never failed a diaprham, even in the mid 20s psi boost.

Doing this saves me lots of watts for the polaris...:face-icon-small-hap
 
Funny thing is I asked a guy about this very thing he said because of the turbo there was no pulse. Hmmm
 
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