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99 670HO primary Need some old school advice

R
Mar 16, 2008
16
0
1
I found an old mxz with the 670HO motor and am just going through it
Ive cleaned and went through the secondary installed new cam buttons
Running the stock Helix and beige spring set on B6
Ive pulled the primary off and noticed there were no o rings in behind buttons
everything else seems ok but the arms have a bit of movement not side to side on the pin... but when you torque the arm side to side???
The thing rattles like crazy
How much move,ment is normal
The rollers seem fine
297 ramps look ok
The splines look ok
I have not removed the cup yet
What are the specs for the bushings?
The are 3 washer weights in each arm how much does each weigh?
I have no book and just trying to figure out how much this has been messed with
Any help is appreciated
 

Dynamo^Joe

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Nov 26, 2007
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Thunder Bay, ont
www.iBackshift.com
Ive pulled the primary off and noticed there were no o rings in behind buttons
  • There is supposed to be a set of o-rings AND a spring underneath the torque buttons.
  • Some people have been misled into the wives tale about removing those critical pieces and the clutch will shift smoother - fer fk sakes, that' just wrong for the damage that will slowly happen now.

everything else seems ok but the arms have a bit of movement not side to side on the pin... but when you torque the arm side to side???
  • Minor

The thing rattles like crazy
  • At idle the clutch will rattle loud because there is too much clearance between the torque buttons and the slide sheave button ways.
  • Put new o-rings and springs under torque buttons

How much movement is normal
  • Should be tight...fking tight.

297 ramps look ok
  • Continuous use with no torque button o-rings and no under spring, will cause the lever arm roller to thrust on one side of the ramp when a load is applied, making a knife edge on the ramp and eventually wearing it out. Mister, there are no replacement ramps from BRP or in the aftermarket. All those TRA-2 parts were discontinued by BRP in 2009 and by CVTech(maker) in 2010.

I have not removed the cup yet
What are the specs for the bushings?
  • Dont ever change the bushing in the cover (you say cup) - ONLY ever replace the spring cover. To many guys have cheaped out and replace the bushing only and it walks out, doing some damage or bad damage. I have picture of people with the covers from the aftermarket with a oil lite bushing pressed in and one guy his clutch became totally destroyed (he had to drive it out, cheaper to drive it out and destroy the clutch (bought used one for $500) than to get air lift by helicopter @ $2500), i have the pictures. I also have a few stories about a piston vendor who had to go good for clutch parts because of the "magic bushing" and how it destroyed the clutch. I have the pictures.
  • 417222157 Spring Cover Ass'y

The are 3 washer weights in each arm how much does each weigh?
  • You must have aftermarket arms then, like thundershift or heavy hitter because in the BRP lever there is only solid weight pins or hollow threaded weight pins with setscrews inside of them.
  • There are "take up" resin washers on either side of the roller on the lever.

I have no book and just trying to figure out how much this has been messed with
Microfiche
 
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