2011 E-tech cutting out at top WOT

[xpdockin]

I have a 2011 E-Tech and while riding it today it would act like it was losing fuel temporarily (half second to a second) it wouldn't do it unless it was WOT for 6-10 seconds (side hill) then it would start cutting out worse and worse the longer I kept it pinned. I'm new to the ski doo fuel injection, Any ideas what is going on? Thanks in advance.

 

[travydog]

what kinda fuel you useing? they get finiky if you se ethanal. ormaybey it is getting snow in the fiter if your leaning it over in alot of powder.i have had both these isues with mine.

 

[Skidoox]

Check the reed valves

Below is a list of areas to help troubleshoot 800 E-tec running issues.

• RPM loss at high speed/RPM- Verify RAVE valve function all 3steps.
• Verify RAVE link nuts for tightness. Many found loose this year.
• Verify RAVE system for pressure /vacuum leaks.
• Verify if RAVE pressure/vacuum hose becomes kinked when warm
• Check Reed petals for fractures or cracks.

Another critical thing on the e-tec is fuel delivery at all rpm

The fuel delivery is greatly influenced by fuel pressure and proper fuel circulation.
Dirty fuel filter, inside and outside of the injector should be checked.
Bad fuel pump, or bad fuel pick up
Pinched o ring inside the injector housing
Faulty pressure regulator (can be quickly swap)
Old fuel from a Jerry can is a bad idea

Spark plug fouled. Engine miss at high RPM.
• Often times caused by use of Octane Boosters or Lead Substitutes.
• Use recommended 91 octane fuel, if not available use 87 octane. The engine will automatically compensate. Do not use any lead substitutes or lead based Octane Boosters.

• Slight RPM loss or drop after sustained high speed driving.
• EX. 8,000-7,800-7,900 RPM after 5-6 kilometers / 2-3 miles of high speed running.
• This may be caused by the 391 drive belt becoming softer/ tackier from heat.
• This in turn may lower max RPM do to clutch's being more loaded.
• Belt compound changes with heat.
• This may occur occasionally, testing with a 383 drive belt would confirm this.

Check engine lamp on X, or XRS, or Free Ride model:
• Low voltage codes due to hi -low headlamp selector switch overlap.
• Refer to Warranty Bulletin 2012-10. This re-flash corrects this issue.

 

[mortelec]

What rpms is it at? What's the belt condition? Sounds like its hitting the rev limiter to me.

 

[xpdockin]

What rpms is it at? What's the belt condition? Sounds like its hitting the rev limiter to me.

No it's not the Rev limiter. In fact I'm pulling about 7800 RPM when it does it and it's not quick to come back. It's literally like If I were to go from WOT to nothing and wait half a second before I go back to WOT the air filters are clean. They have 2 on the back on these sleds and those were the first thing I checked when it did it. I run 8.5 gal of premium no ethanol and top it off with 100LL av gas I don't think it's a RAVE or reed problem because it's instantaneous. There is no leading up to it, it will be running great then instantly go down to idle, then back to WOT. It's a long enough delay it could roll on a side hill if your not quick to correct.

 

[DeadSkunk93]

I am experiencing close to the same thing on my 2011 etec. Whenever i can it....usually above 5000 rpms it will cut out for just a half second or second and then it will take off like a raped ape again....so ill slow back down and can it again...does the same thing..cuts out for a second then takes off again. Any help is greatly appreciated. Interested to see what the problem is.

 

[winter brew]

Sounds like exhaust restriction, especially if sidehilling. Aftermarket silencer?
What is done to the engine that you need to run Avgas? That might be an issue on a stock engine.

 

[Skidoox]

I run 8.5 gal of premium no ethanol and top it off with 100LL av gas.

Using some types of fuel additives, like octane booster or 100LL (LL= low lead) av gas, in the E-tec engine may lead to a loss of RPM.
The units investigated were limited to ± 7100 rpm. The low end power were normal but the RPM will be flat out at ±7100 RPM.

We found that the sparkplugs were "Lead Fouled" from the use of leaded fuel or additives containing lead which become conductive over the firing tip. When the temperature of the spark plug increases the conductivity of the lead compound formed on the sparkplug surface increases, causing misfiring, this explains why the engine performs normally at lower RPM. This phenomena is often observed in aircraft using Avgas.


Sometimes it can be identified by looking at the sparkplug ceramic insulator, the ground electrode may be coated with a Brownish-yellow or Pinkish-red glazed coating.

The only solution to fix this issue is to replace the sparkplug.

 

[xpdockin]

Sounds like exhaust restriction, especially if sidehilling. Aftermarket silencer?
What is done to the engine that you need to run Avgas? That might be an issue on a stock engine.

It does it sidehilling either way, even when the can is in the air. But it does have a J&T can. Otherwise all stock. I'll stop mixing in any av gas, I had a head and few other things on last years sled and so I guess I just stayed in the same routine when fueling. I changed the spark plugs at the start of the season and have since put 45 miles on the new ones. But I'll pull them and see how they look. All you guys input is greatly appreciated. I'll stop mixing fuel and see if that helps any. I will keep you posted.

 

[xpdockin]

I'll also see if I can swap out a pressure regulator and try a few other things listed above as I'm sure it's loss of fuel or spark completely.

 

[andrew44]

I remember something happening like this to a buddies 11 etec 800. He sucked in a portion of a reed. Id double check those. and have the computer cleared and looked at for any noticeable codes. The ECU might be having trouble regulating the fuel/air ratio with a chipped reed or something?? just a thought

 

[xpdockin]

I'll also see if I can swap out a pressure regulator and try a few other things listed above as I'm sure it's loss of fuel or spark completely.

Anyone on this thread who was curious as to what was wrong the exhaust sensor in the pipe was bad and not sending the correct codes. Thanks again for all the advice.