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2.6" track vs 3" track on Pro RMK 163" 850

N
Mar 7, 2018
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Seriously here, why would Poo care about the clip track wear if they don't warranty it? And they don't. Those tracks seldom fail in the first 1000 miles (I've had three, they all wear, but none have actually failed). It's very simple - fewer clips are cheaper, lighter, faster. That's what people buy. If they sell some replacement tracks, that's even better. The MTTF of all these components is relatively known by the OEM - they just have to decide if it's "material" (that means significant) in warranty cost, performance, safety, and marketing. They obviously don't right now.


If more clips increase track temp, try taking all the clips off, and see how that works. Got a hunch it isn't gonna turn out well.

I don't think what I said is being taken correctly.

1.) Adding clips isn't increasing track temps. (well maybe it is, but not the point I was trying to make). The clips when placed beneath the lug will concentrate the heat to the track below the lug, thus adding to lug delamination problems.

I agree and would put money on it not turning out well with removing all the clips...

2.) Many tracks are fully clipped. They work great. There is no problem with delamination of the lugs. They are designed for it. My comments earlier were about the 2.6" track only.
 
J

JJ_0909

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Nov 16, 2009
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I don't think what I said is being taken correctly.

1.) Adding clips isn't increasing track temps. (well maybe it is, but not the point I was trying to make). The clips when placed beneath the lug will concentrate the heat to the track below the lug, thus adding to lug delamination problems.

I agree and would put money on it not turning out well with removing all the clips...

2.) Many tracks are fully clipped. They work great. There is no problem with delamination of the lugs. They are designed for it. My comments earlier were about the 2.6" track only.

I like this guy.
 

goridedoo

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Feb 8, 2010
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Yes. Are you an engineer by trade, designing tracks?



No, I have not tried it. There is no need to try it. My 2.6" track does look worn, but it hasn't come apart in 1,800 boosted miles. I'd love to see some pictures of your track coming apart due to not having clips.


Here you go, boss.
57806262c01537bb89e4100a3c7cb157.jpg
ca49c518c9429a32c6e8266b6e8f29e8.jpg
52c523b5414cbdfdd18b039d0b9bfcd3.jpg




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Y

yooper 8

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Apr 14, 2008
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I have a 2017 163 with the 3" and I would not want to go back to a 2.6. The 3" really shines in the deep, and I have no issues with it on long trail rides up to the Alpine at revy, etc. Just run the scratchers and enjoy the extra traction when you get to the goods.
 

AKFULLTHROTTLE

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Alaska
This stuff cracks me up! I do not need a "track engineering degree" to know the $60 in clips has saved my track this season. The wear is night and day difference! You do your thing and I will clip mine every time for now on, simple as that.
 
T
Sep 10, 2009
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1400 boosted miles unclipped on my 2.6". No problems. Some wear, but the rest of the track has seen better days too. Maybe the problem is when people are trying to use a mountain track as a trail track?

I've been happy with the 2.6". Chose it again on the 850 because I didn't want a chain case. The stock belt drive is great!
 

tdbaugha

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Same as above, but less miles. Buying my sled the second year (2017) I was quite worried about track durability based on what I read online.

Turns out my 2.6 has been the most durable track I've ever ran. Holding up a lot better than my X3 which pitched half dozen paddles and better than my two buddies running Conquer tracks.

Edit: Come to think of it, when I sold that sled, the buyer realized that my track (X3) actually had a 3" rip in it.
 

aksledjunkie

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My 2.6" track was toast in 1250 miles last season. I didn't make a single change to the track and ran stock drivers at the time. This sled saw maybe 50 miles total of trail. Otherwise it was always in the powder. It fell apart from the non-clipped sections that wore through straight to the fiber rods.
That was the only section of the track that failed. My buddy clipped his 2.6", track looks phenomenal thus far this season. Just my experience..
 

tdbaugha

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My 2.6" track was toast in 1250 miles last season. I didn't make a single change to the track and ran stock drivers at the time. This sled saw maybe 50 miles total of trail. Otherwise it was always in the powder. It fell apart from the non-clipped sections that wore through straight to the fiber rods.
That was the only section of the track that failed. My buddy clipped his 2.6", track looks phenomenal thus far this season. Just my experience..

Interesting. We get ~500"+ of lowish density snow per year around here. I'm sure that's quite a bit different than the snow you guys get in AK. Maybe that is why we have seen such a difference.
 

aksledjunkie

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Interesting. We get ~500"+ of lowish density snow per year around here. I'm sure that's quite a bit different than the snow you guys get in AK. Maybe that is why we have seen such a difference.



Definitely possible. In my opinion, tree riding is hard on tracks regardless so when the outside of the tracks get worn out I usually chalk it up to my fault for using it as a chainsaw. The inside wear though seems consistent with heat building on the non-clipped sections, and since the track never saw hard pack on a regular basis I wouldn't think it would generate much heat.


In regards to the OP though, again IMO, the 2.6" is an overall better performer than the 3". It trenches way less and the lift it has when you get into a situation and transfer your weight to your off leg the sled gets right up on top.


On the flip side, when you get into a situation the 3" can and will just eat through your problems especially with boost ha. Meh, different strokes for different folks.
 
N
Apr 9, 2010
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Soldotna, AK
Interesting. We get ~500"+ of lowish density snow per year around here. I'm sure that's quite a bit different than the snow you guys get in AK. Maybe that is why we have seen such a difference.

IDK about him, but a lot of the riding areas here are coastal and the snow can be really heavy. Would be interesting if that is making a big difference.
 
R
Mar 9, 2017
308
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stillwater MN
what is this designed for?

I don't think what I said is being taken correctly.

1.) Adding clips isn't increasing track temps. (well maybe it is, but not the point I was trying to make). The clips when placed beneath the lug will concentrate the heat to the track below the lug, thus adding to lug delamination problems.

I agree and would put money on it not turning out well with removing all the clips...

2.) Many tracks are fully clipped. They work great. There is no problem with delamination of the lugs. They are designed for it. My comments earlier were about the 2.6" track only.

What you say in regards to not clipping the track makes no sense.
2000 miles missing half my outside lugs and now part of track. . My fully clipped 163 3 has no missing lugs. Enjoy the attention but not drinking your tea.

desiged for it.jpeg
 
Last edited:

Sheetmetalfab

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……..
Track issues.

While clipping the lugs definitely helps prevent wear, the clips also may help keep the fiberglass rods from breaking.

My 163x3 series 7 (no added clips and minimal wear) 1050 miles. every single fiberglass rod is broken at the rear idler spacing. (Yep all of em) the outter lugs are also beginning to tear at the break in the rod. (Probably 7-8 lugs)

While I definitely have hit tons of trees, logs, stumps and rocks I don’t think i’ve impacted every single rod hard enough to break it.
2 completely missing lugs and 2 partially missing lugs. (i’m definitely to blame for these)

After cutting two of these tracks down to snowbike width the fiberglass rods are half round instead of oval like other tracks I have cut.
 
B
Oct 31, 2010
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Clipping every window on the track is a solution keyboard engineers on the forum created. It is actually against what should be done. The clips create heat then delaminate the lug.

But track wise I went with a 2.6" because the factory belt drive works so great. I didn't want to deal with a chaincase or aftermarket belt drives. I've used aftermarket belt drives in the past and had nothing but issues with it... Loose fit of the pulleys causing prying action on the bolts and bending/breaking tensioners.
i am no keyboard engineer, but I also spoke with camso staff personnally, one field tester and a bench tester at a show, they confirmed me they gave poo the recomandation to fully clip the track or at least move the clips to the lug window. I am on my third axys, 16,17, 18, didnt clip the first one and my track was done by years end. Clipped the two last sleds and track is in perfect shape! Think what you want, my 19's track will be clipped :eyebrows:
 

alt

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Imo with the increase in hp and possibly things getting sourced to the lowest bidder it's going to be harder as time goes by to get a track to last over 2k miles max. Biggest question is, what track to get for the best of both worlds for each rider and rider style. I'm still on the fence.
 

freak485

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Imo with the increase in hp and possibly things getting sourced to the lowest bidder it's going to be harder as time goes by to get a track to last over 2k miles max. Biggest question is, what track to get for the best of both worlds for each rider and rider style. I'm still on the fence.



THIS....stop getting off topic make a thread about clipping vs non clipping the tracks this is 2.6 vs 3.0
 

Sheetmetalfab

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THIS....stop getting off topic make a thread about clipping vs non clipping the tracks this is 2.6 vs 3.0

Ok here’s some.

They have the exact same durability.

If you ride in snow or use good scratchers you won’t see any difference in wear.

If you clip both of them you will have a track that lasts.

Mine is a 3” track.
One buddy has a 2.6 with much worse wear than mine at lower miles because the sled gets loaned out to noobs often.

The 3” track will outclimb or outpull the 2.6 in any snow i’ve come across from hardpack to dry deep fluff. (3” is stiffer when bending by hand)


Quickdrive durability is pretty good.
New arp bolts once a year and check the torque every other ride.
Pro gears make an effective gear down.
 
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