1990 phazer 2 carb clean questions

[gdhillon]

We've had this sled for quite a while (i think my dad bought it in 95). I haven't ridden/started it in about 3 years, iirc the last time we had it out it would bog down quite a bit with throttle and sometimes run fine. From my recent edmucation in carbs, i suspect that the carbs (jets in particular) all gummed up. Now, the reason I want to clean the carbs is to get it running good (and reliable) so i can sell it, along with the old cat to buy a new(er) sled. I just recently discovered how easy it is to clean a carb this summer, as I just cleaned my quads (95 polaris 400), however that was only a single carb setup. The phazer (570cc i think) has two carbs does this mean they have to be synched? The only 'issues" i can forsee are the fact that if I do have to sync the carbs, i would think that would be a pain and it looks pretty tight in there as far getting the carbs in and out go. Anyway, just curious if you guys have any tips/tricks for me to utilize when I tear into the carbs. Thanks!

 

[m8magicandmystery]

I used to back out the idle screw all the way so that the slides were fully rested then with my finger against the slide just turn the screw in till I could feel movement on the slide..then do that to the other carb...

Then I would adjust the throttle cable by having lots of slack (even before adjusting idle screw) and adjusting slowly till I felt slightest slide movement with the finger and do the same with the other carb and once unit was fired up I would adjust the idle screws equally till desired rpm

 

[MRFUSION]

Okay, on the left of the fuel tank console there is a small access door, remove with screwdriver and remove 10mm head bolts under that holding the airbox in place. remove the airbox clamps completely holding the boots to the intake of the carbs. Pull the airbox back and you will have enough real estate to remove the carbs. You might want to remove the small intake snorkel on the airbox intake. You will have the fuel lines that are a pain and will most likely be hardened up. The choke cables dont loose the plungers and springs in the belly pan. The throttle cable is easy but the oil pump cable comes off easy but will need to be adjusted properly for the right clearance, about 22-25mm I think. Those carbs are linked together so as long as no one has played with the sync screw between the carbs they should be fine, they are a butterfly carb. Under the float bowl 17m head screw there is little rubber plugs in the carb body, make sure these are still soft or they will pull fuel and run sloppy, also make sure the plugs go back into the same holes. Make sure the float bowl sealing gaskets are still okay too. The main jets are in the bowl plugs and the pilots are sunken down in the carb bodies. Good luck I hope this helps out a bit.
Shad

 

[gdhillon]

I used to back out the idle screw all the way so that the slides were fully rested then with my finger against the slide just turn the screw in till I could feel movement on the slide..then do that to the other carb...

Then I would adjust the throttle cable by having lots of slack (even before adjusting idle screw) and adjusting slowly till I felt slightest slide movement with the finger and do the same with the other carb and once unit was fired up I would adjust the idle screws equally till desired rpm

From your description the carbs dont sound like there very simliar to the mikuni on my polaris, do you know what type of carb yami used? Maybe theres a video on youtube....that site is invaluable with diy stuff especially for a visual learner like me, anywho thanks for the procedure

 

[gdhillon]

Okay, on the left of the fuel tank console there is a small access door, remove with screwdriver and remove 10mm head bolts under that holding the airbox in place. remove the airbox clamps completely holding the boots to the intake of the carbs. Pull the airbox back and you will have enough real estate to remove the carbs. You might want to remove the small intake snorkel on the airbox intake. You will have the fuel lines that are a pain and will most likely be hardened up. The choke cables dont loose the plungers and springs in the belly pan. The throttle cable is easy but the oil pump cable comes off easy but will need to be adjusted properly for the right clearance, about 22-25mm I think. Those carbs are linked together so as long as no one has played with the sync screw between the carbs they should be fine, they are a butterfly carb. Under the float bowl 17m head screw there is little rubber plugs in the carb body, make sure these are still soft or they will pull fuel and run sloppy, also make sure the plugs go back into the same holes. Make sure the float bowl sealing gaskets are still okay too. The main jets are in the bowl plugs and the pilots are sunken down in the carb bodies. Good luck I hope this helps out a bit.
Shad

Shad, its been so long since Ive looked at the sled haha, by fuel tank console are you talking about that little lid thing that covers the fuel fill cap? With yours and the other fellows helpful posts i think it will be fairly straight forward. I can for sure see those lines be hardened up and all brittle and what not. So by that do you mean 22-25mm of thread should be showing on the oil premix bolt? I am unsure what you mean by plungers and springs i guess ill see what you mean when i tear into her. I used brake clean on my polarises carb do you think that will be ok with my yami? And I assume the floats should sit parellel to the carb to? Thanks for your help!

 

[LoneViper]

I had a manual years back but it's long sense gone. I did still have this link and hope it helps. There is an adjuster about half way on the oil cable and his spacing is for the end clearance there. Do not dissamble the carbs from their rack. If you think the sinc is off, I used to put a 1/4" drill bit under one butterfly and adjust the other the same. pretty low tech but worked.

http://www.zenitram-inc.com/kgmz.htm

 

[geo]

If your carbs are plugged on a Phizzer you have some pretty technical cleaning ahead. The jets in the float bowls and getting to them is the easy part.

Those butterfly carbs have a weird fuel flow. If you look into the bore from the engine side you will see three tiny holes on the top of the bore right where the butterfly stops. Ususallly these are the ones that are plugged.
To clean them requires removal of the small "frost plug" on the top and some very tiny drill bits (be very carefull here).

I would suggest you take it to someone that has a sonic cleaner.

This is all assuming you have a carb problem and not pistons, rings, base gasket, crank seal, stator, stuck clutch, burnt belt or many other mechanical problems that can occur when you try to run a 23yr old sled.

Great sled though. Truly a classic that has not been surpassed as an entry sled yet. Good luck.

 

[MRFUSION]

There is a little door panel about 1x2 inches closer to the front of the sled than the fuel door. You pry it up with a flathead screwdriver you will see the 2 bolt heads. As far as the oil pump measurement have the cable installed on the carbs then pull the cable itself up from the threaded holder in the carb body and and measure the distance between the threaded adjuster and the cable end, you adjust by turning in the threaded adjuster in the carb. When you pull the cable you are pulling the pump open all the way to set your measurement. The choke cables come out of the bodies with a 12mm wrench then you will pull the plungers and springs out of the carbs and set aside, they can fall off the cable and be lost easy thats all. You should use a carb clean solution or yes find an ultrasonic cleaner to access those small holes under that welch plug, pulling that welch plug sucks and sealing it isnt great either.The floats will have a measurement but normal rule of thumb is level with the float bowl surface, just make sure the floats arent pressing down the small spring loaded needle on the needle assy, will give you a false measurement. I find holding the carbs on a 45 or so just so the floats touch the needle is the way to do it. Good luck.
Shad

 

[m8magicandmystery]

From your description the carbs dont sound like there very simliar to the mikuni on my polaris, do you know what type of carb yami used? Maybe theres a video on youtube....that site is invaluable with diy stuff especially for a visual learner like me, anywho thanks for the procedure

sorry..i was talking round/flat slide in general...not butterfly but still sycronization should be basic..ps oxy-acetylene torch tip cleaners are handy to have if you have carbs...make sure you carb boots are not cracked.

 

[sledless bdh]

the sync almost never gets out of wack. You can fully clean and service the carbs without messing up the sync. I would recommend not messing with the current setting of the sync.