13’ 800 proclimb killing randomly, low idle, and bogging our when touching throttle after start up.

[Ijust]

Is this a sign of a Failing or sticking fuel pump. Sled has been dying at random, idling between 800-1600, and dying while trying to throttle after start up. Sounds like it’s on one jug if I can start it at all anymore. Unplugged tss, and kill switch, by passed tether. Same result. Plugged them back in, still the same. Checked plugs, dry. Changed anyways. Started a month back just by acting boggy at start up, especially after a half assed pull on the cord. Feeling like fuel pump may be stuck or not feeding gas. Should I try to jump the pump in reverse? Today I was 20 miles deep and couldn’t get sled started enough to run. Tried wot while pulling, tried 30 pulls with key off and then a pull with key on. Getting desperate.

 

[clarson80]

I had a similar issue with my ‘14 on cold start. It started, I let it warm up...but almost any throttle input would kill it, so limped it into the shop to take a look. It killed several times but always started back up and idled. I checked anything that was quick/easy/obvious...fuses, throttle block, plug condition.
Everything was good, so I started it just to check and ran fine, I’m a little worried that could happen in a bad place.
Hopefully someone has an answer to your questio.

 

[matt159]

Look in your fuel tank with a flashlight... if you see brass/copper colored flakes/shavings on the bottom of the tank then you'll need to replace your pump unless they are in there from a previous failure that was already replaced.

Your issue is exactly what I have going on occasionally when engine is hot at shutdown...

A few of us have been sorting through similar isues here: https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/electrical-gremlin.445853/

 

[Ijust]

Look in your fuel tank with a flashlight... if you see brass/copper colored flakes/shavings on the bottom of the tank then you'll need to replace your pump unless they are in there from a previous failure that was already replaced.

Your issue is exactly what I have going on occasionally when engine is hot at shutdown...

A few of us have been sorting through similar isues here: https://www.snowest.com/forum/threads/electrical-gremlin.445853/

Wow, you guys have been going through a lot of scenarios. Good advice on the pump, sounds like I should also replace the pick ups and filters If it’s bad. Once I’m back in Montana, I’ll take a peak with a flashlight. Another thing I read was about the snapped recoil rope. I did snap one, and the issues have gotten worse since. I’ll make sure to check the GAp. Anybody know what that gap is supposed to measure? Thanks for your input, I’ll update on my findings.

 

[matt159]

Wow, you guys have been going through a lot of scenarios. Good advice on the pump, sounds like I should also replace the pick ups and filters If it’s bad. Once I’m back in Montana, I’ll take a peak with a flashlight. Another thing I read was about the snapped recoil rope. I did snap one, and the issues have gotten worse since. I’ll make sure to check the GAp. Anybody know what that gap is supposed to measure? Thanks for your input, I’ll update on my findings.

I can't find the spec in the manual I have... seems like it was 0.7mm or something similar... very close without touching. Make sure you check/adjust both pickups. will probably be bent back if the rope got in there... won't just be able to adjust them closer... will have to gently "true up" the mounts again so the sensors are flat with the flywheel.

 

[Ijust]

Just pulled the y pipe, and found this... ouch. Not ideal in March. Better luck to the rest of you.

 

[kidwoo]

shlt


how may miles on that thing?

 

[Ijust]

1600 miles advertised as “old man driven”
I’m stumped. I put a couple hundred miles on it always topped with oil. Gonna pull the jug and try to figure out what happened. Another reason to get a compression test done any time you buy a sled from anybody. Even if it’s a sweet old man with a clean garage!

 

[kidwoo]

Shlt

sorry man, that sucks

 

[sno*jet]

these motors are notorious for carbon build-up on the exhaust valves causing that. could be the old man never cleaned them. I switched to Ctech-2 oil and find hardly any buildup on mine anymore. I also never fill the thing with oil, only about 3/4 at most as i think the pump seeps oil when sitting, especially with the c-tech2.

 

[Ijust]

Something somewhere is expelling oil. there was a bunch of oil on the belly pan. That’s good to know about the exhaust valve. The guy I bought it from was running c tech 2. I’ll check the valves. Thanks for your information! It might be coming out of the breather tube (to full?)

 

[Ijust]

Looks like some water may have been getting in through the intake. The seal at the front of the intake was folded on one edge. The power valve had condensation on it As well as a substantial amount of carbon buildup. Is there a way to find out what caused the burn down by looking at the pistons? Here is a pic of the power valves.

 

[rbblrsn]

Looks like some water may have been getting in through the intake. The seal at the front of the intake was folded on one edge. The power valve had condensation on it As well as a substantial amount of carbon buildup. Is there a way to find out what caused the burn down by looking at the pistons? Here is a pic of the power valves.

Oooh, looks like new top end time. My 2013 had the same issue with the seal at the air intake, and the same result. These days if I pull my hood I reinstall with a bead of silicone around gasket to ensure a snow tight fit. Good luck.

 

[kidwoo]

Your valve blades don't look that bad IMO. Certainly not enough to cause that kind of scoring. I'd bet you just got a bunch of water inhalation as you suspect.
The trail sled intake design strikes again.


Hopefully it's just the pistons taking the damage and your jug walls aren't too screwed up.

FWIW, the last two zuke H.O. motors I've had have small bits of oil in the belly pan. I think the pumps leak if I had to guess. Not enough to indicate a full blown detached hose or anything but it's there. It also might be from the one or two times I've spilled oil filling the reservoir for that matter....

 

[Ijust]

Your valve blades don't look that bad IMO. Certainly not enough to cause that kind of scoring. I'd bet you just got a bunch of water inhalation as you suspect.
The trail sled intake design strikes again.


Hopefully it's just the pistons taking the damage and your jug walls aren't too screwed up.

FWIW, the last two zuke H.O. motors I've had have small bits of oil in the belly pan. I think the pumps leak if I had to guess. Not enough to indicate a full blown detached hose or anything but it's there. It also might be from the one or two times I've spilled oil filling the reservoir for that matter....

Any trick on how to drain the coolant out of the heads on the proclimb chassis? Ex. Which hose to pull for the least amount of spillage. I Don’t have a pump.

 

[FFLH]

I think a lot of the oil in the belly pan comes from spit back into the air box, especially after the reed valves get some age on them and get a little too loose.

 

[kidwoo]

Any trick on how to drain the coolant out of the heads on the proclimb chassis? Ex. Which hose to pull for the least amount of spillage. I Don’t have a pump.

Back of the motor on the clutch side. Be prepared. It's a lot. Pull the belly pan/plate

 

[boondocker97]

I think a lot of the oil in the belly pan comes from spit back into the air box, especially after the reed valves get some age on them and get a little too loose.

This. My sled has been premix since new, had the belly wiped out several times, and still gets oil in the bottom.

 

[Ijust]

The oil on the bottom is part of life, and it have known that since my 1979 jag 340. I also now think FFLA is right on after doing a big wipe down. I’ll be filling oil tank way less.

As for the pto side piston that is banged up, most damage (substantial at that) was on exhaust side which leads me to believe it def took a few deep breaths of water.
I was surprised to see the mag side piston was in great shape and the cylinder still had its cross hatching. It did have some water droplets on that piston and cylinder though. I’m still gonna get a hone on that cylinder, and new rings for that piston.
As for the beat down side, I need a replated cylinder and a new piston and rings. Wanna stay oem on that piston cuz I don’t want to replace the other since it’s in perfect shape. Should I be cleaning the crank case if I suspect some water got in? I know it’s a lot more work, but would hate if I replaced the left lung and piston just to scorch it again. Thanks for your help guys! First time doing this, it seems pretty doable even for me.

 

[rbblrsn]

Best way I've found to get coolant out of the block prior to pulling jugs is to suck it out using a Shop-Vac with a small hose duct taped onto the shop vac hose.