I found the wiring schematic for the projection kit in the service manual and went ahead and did it myself.
If you are looking to add a light that switches on and off with high beam see below for the parts that I used: (The WM part numbers are the connectors for the 4" LED bars that I used. I also always order extra crimps because I do not have the correct crimp tool.)
Switch allows the LEDs to be turned off or on. Only provides power when high beams are on. Red part illuminates when on.
LED bars mounted to the bottom of the plate under the pipe in the nosepan.
Completely hidden from the exterior and shines through the two nosepan vents. I may need to adjust them for angle, but I will wait to see how it works when we get snow. I like a good amount of weight transfer which makes it a pain to ride at night because my headlights are always looking for squirrels in the trees.
Wire is in a plastic loom and ran down with the hood harness and wrapped with the metal heat resistant tape. I tested these lights with a battery and they are pulling roughly 2.1 amps so I used the 5 amp fuse. This is only about 25 watts and should be perfectly fine running off the projection circuit that was originally designed for 55 watts.
These LEDs are rated at 70 watts max each, was hoping to be around the 55 watts total for both. Only thing at this time before actually trying them out that I would change is brighter LEDs. I do have pet screen infront of the vent which I am sure is blocking the light as well. I also got the triple row spot/flood. I think I would have just went with a triple row spot instead if I would have compared them in person first.