Boondocker timing key

I tried it on my wife's 2011 t-pro and I had to add fuel in the mid and top. Didn't have any issues that your having. I took it back off, the next time she rode it, because I didn't have it completely tuned in and no time to fool with it.

i installed the 3 degree last weekend. went out sunday riding 4-6k feet. at 9lbs it felt a little sluggish, turned it up to 11.9-12.4 and it felt much better (running 12 gallons 92 octane and 3.5 gallons of 110, same ration i've always ran just to be safe(trail tank if your wondering where i put 15.5 gallons)), pulls a lot harder than it did before the key and with a smother transition and more responsive bottom end. i was only pulling 8100 w/ the key tho but i blame that more so on not being able to properly load the motor there was barely enough snow to road ride. as soon as i get some real snow to play with it in i think i'll probably end up taking a few numbers away in the mid as well as the top.

After installing the key I also found that my rpm's were about 200-300 lower then before. Also had to add fuel on top. On the fence about leaving the key in or not. In all honesty how much is the key really helping? Maybe a pound or two more boost on same octane fuel? If I'm missing something please chime in.

The timing key, is really only needed if you're running pump fuel, or only enough Av/Race fuel to get by. What I mean by that is, if you're running 8 PSI of boost and straight pump gas, the timing key is going to help account for some of the inconsistencies of the fuel. However, this is kind of a safety feature for your motor, and will actually take a bit away from performance, on higher boost with better fuel. THe way it was explained to me by BD is that the chip will help guys that want to run pump gas have less motor issues with the poor quality/consistency of the gas. THose that want to run a little higher boost and or run a bit better quality fuel, will achieve better performance from their sleds by tuning with the box, and finding an octane fuel that safely handles the boost, but doesn't hinder the bottom end. THe way I took it, if you want a sled with moderate boost, that you can fill directly from the pump, get the chip. If you're willing to pay a little extra for fuel and take the time to tune the sled and the fuel to it, then it's not the way to go.
Personally, I'm still finding my exact ratio, but I'm getting close. Riding at 10K' last weekend, I was able to run 11 PSI on 50% 100LL, 50% 91 pump. I tried to bump to 12 PSI, and hit Det at the top of a long pull in deep snow. I went back down to 11 PSI and ran it again and didn't have the issue. I am going to try 75% 100LL/25% 91, next and see how that does. Hope this helps you guys