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E-tec break in

winter brew

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More pin weight plus lighter spring = go nowhere at above 7000' in fluffy snow. I hope you were joking? Or I have to question your "guru" status. :face-icon-small-sho


Not sure what your saying...??? But thanks for the negative rating :face-icon-small-dis
My point was I had to make changes...adding pin weight and less primary spring to maintain the same RPM that I WAS making with less weight and more primary spring earlier in the break-in....meaning it IS making more power....that's all.
I didn't say anything about elevation, that was all you.
 
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tukernater

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Nov 4, 2009
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Not sure what your saying...??? But thanks for the negative rating :face-icon-small-dis
My point was I had to make changes...adding pin weight and less primary spring to maintain the same RPM that I WAS making with less weight and more primary spring earlier in the break-in....meaning it IS making more power....that's all.
I didn't say anything about elevation, that was all you.
Wow ,don't worry WB most of use understood you.:face-icon-small-win good to now the elevation you ride, that what we ride at to.
 
C
Nov 23, 2009
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More pin weight plus lighter spring = go nowhere at above 7000' in fluffy snow. I hope you were joking? Or I have to question your "guru" status. :face-icon-small-sho
Maybe you should learn to decipher what you read before you start beaking off. Seems to me you always have something to say, yet it's really nothing worth listening to.
 
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redbull660

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Dec 1, 2007
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Hey honey........HEY HONEY....WILL YOU BRING ME SOME MORE POPCORN AND ANOTHER BEER, THIS IS GOING TO GET GOOD. :argue:
 

togwotee9

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ScarJo_popcorn.gif
 
C

CBX

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Jan 21, 2008
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Judging by Nuggetu's posts here and dootalk, this guy comes across as a bit of a chump. Neg rep me all you want hoss.

I'll bet he's in the dealership 3-4 times a week being a pain. Probably wants everything for free too. Probably hasn't even had the clutches off his sled yet. Even though he has spent hours here complaining about it. And going in the dealer " i spent blah blah dollars and i deserve the world. Because i says so. I spent all this money and i want better than stock, but i'm not going to acutally do anything about it but whine, maybe skidoo will give me some free stuff if i whine enough".......I can already imagine how it is in your dealership when you walk in.

Nuggetu, what makes you think that Paul has the same helix, gearing or anything else in the sled einstein.... the guy sells clutch kits, and probably has all kinds of stuff just laying around to test with. Maybe instead of being a chump, you could take some notes from winterbrew and maybe make your machine run the way you want.

Or just go on and whine about how your stocker runs and question Winterbrews guru-ness, I'm sure thats exactly why the guys sells so many setups on this site, because they must really suck big time huh.... :face-icon-small-con
 
F
Nov 27, 2007
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medicine hat
we ride 4 to 8000 feet, and yes like paul metioned, if you add pin weight and put in a solfter primary, you will pull down your rpm, just like what i did by adding 3 grams and going to a solfter spring

the advantage of this, is your putting more pressure on your belt, over the stock setup and this will pull down your max rpm, for me i wanted to decreses my rpm so i could run in clicker 4 and still maintain 8 grand, hopping to have a better backshift, and yes that is what it did
 
L
Mar 8, 2008
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Well got the chance to stop by the dealer last Friday and have them hook up to mine and my dad's E-Tecs.

Mine had around 16 hrs, 240 miles, Zero time left on break in. Oil pump code on # 6. I do not know when it burned out the break in time though.

My dad's sled had 32% left on break in, 14.51 hrs, 200.4 miles. Oil pump code also on # 6.

We turned the oil pump code down to # 5 and will see if that helps on some of the oil usage.

Also I noticed about the time that mine was toning down on the oil usage it went into a fuel drinking mode for about 3 rides. I would go through 5-7 gallons of fuel while everyone else went through around 3 gallons. Then this weekend my dad started doing the same thing. He went through 5 gallons in 19 miles and I went through 2.7 gallons in 22 miles. Hmmmmmm?

But they do seem to continue to get stronger.

Get your sled back to your dealer and set the oil pump to 6 again, this is just a calibration number because every pump is a little different. The oil pump is tested at the manufacturer where they have concluded that to give the right amount of oil it needs to be set at 6.
I talked to my service manager and he said DO NOT CHANGE the oil pump settings this can lead to catastrophic failure!!!
 
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fassteddie

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Nov 27, 2007
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renton wa.
brews got it rite.... at 167 miles i had to add wt# rode another 125 miles had to click back to 1 by the end of the weekend this thing keeps making more power will add more wt.for this weeks fun. i also have a lighter pri spring and diff. helix and i have put 125 miles on the j & t can. no codes and cheap diet.
 
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nuggetau

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Sep 26, 2009
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Thanks for the personal attacks, always plenty of that on the internet, it gets pretty tiresome.

My real world results don't match what you guys are saying. Either I got a weak motor, or the snow depth and snow consistency is different(ie, shallow snow, damp snow or firm snow, or road riding), or elevation is the variable, or the method for quantifying "holding 8000" is much different. I suspect it's a combination of the last 3 things.

If your stock Etec can hold 8000 at above 7000' elevation on C4 in deep dry snow then I got a weak motor.

Here is how I quantify holding 8000. Steep climb, bottomless dry snow, almost no ground speed, track and motor digging for all it has, a period of digging long enough to actually see that the rpms don't fall off, and if the track was allowed to unload and get to 8000 it didn't count.

I suspect the guys who are saying they hold 8000, are actually saying it holds 8000 with ground speed, 2 very different things! I am trying to get the motor to hold 8000 under the worst possible conditions. Do I see 8000 in the run up, yes, do I see 8000 when the track unloads, yes, do I see 8000 when the snow is firm/damp, yes, do I see 8000 with ground speed, yes. But that is NOT how I quantify "holding 8000".
 

Teth-Air

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Mine is at 385km now and has pulled 2 strings from 2 new belts. I did not get a great break in on the first one so I took the extra time and broke the second in very carefully. I also added a 2.5 vent behind the shock and have the tool box and most foam removed. The alignment looks way straight compared to my 08, so I have not measured it properly yet. I pulled the clutch to clean after the first string was pulled. The sled runs great and holds 8000 no problem in clicker 3 or 4 so I only want to play with clutching to save the belts. I installed a 42 degree straight helix last night and will drop the primary spring to a blue/purple. Anybody think I will also have to add more pin weight to offset over reving form the 42 degree helix?

thanks

Chris
 

goin2dmtns

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I have two rides and 103 miles on mine now.
My 163 will pull down on the steep slopes to 7700 - 7800 on clicker 4.
If I hit the hill with ground speed, it will hold it, but will not build it very fast once I let off or it looses it.

On the same hill in a new path with deep powder, it will only pull 7200 on clicker 3 and it over revs on Clicker 5 so, I will live with it in clicker 4 until it is broken in.

I assume that it is because it is still in break in and of course the less than perfect stock clutching.

I will get another ride or two in before I start tweaking on the setup. I want it broken in first.

I do have to say, on the hard pack, it is fast, so it doesn't take much of a run at the bottom of the hill to get the track speed up.

I ride between 8000 to 10000 feet.

:bump2:
 
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nuggetau

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Sep 26, 2009
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I have two rides and 103 miles on mine now.
My 163 will pull down on the steep slopes to 7700 - 7800 on clicker 4.
If I hit the hill with ground speed, it will hold it, but will not build it very fast once I let off or it looses it.

On the same hill in a new path with deep powder, it will only pull 7200 on clicker 3 and it over revs on Clicker 5 so, I will live with it in clicker 4 until it is broken in.

I assume that it is because it is still in break in and of course the less than perfect stock clutching.

I will get another ride or two in before I start tweaking on the setup. I want it broken in first.

I do have to say, on the hard pack, it is fast, so it doesn't take much of a run at the bottom of the hill to get the track speed up.

I ride between 8000 to 10000 feet.

:bump2:


Thanks, that exactly mirrors my experience with the motor out of retard mode, so I wouldn't expect those numbers to change without clutching it. Nice to see someone else getting identical numbers at similar altitudes.

It boggles my mind how anyone thinks ADDING pinweight will be able to get the rpm to 8000? :crazy:
 

winter brew

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Thanks, that exactly mirrors my experience with the motor out of retard mode, so I wouldn't expect those numbers to change without clutching it. Nice to see someone else getting identical numbers at similar altitudes.

It boggles my mind how anyone thinks ADDING pinweight will be able to get the rpm to 8000? :crazy:


That would be DOWN to 8,000 :face-icon-small-win And I never said I was using stock clutching, only what I had to change as it progressed through break in....is it starting to make sense??
Just trying to share info.....sorry if that offends you :face-icon-small-dis. Now go ride!! :lips:
 
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nuggetau

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That would be DOWN to 8,000 :face-icon-small-win And I never said I was using stock clutching, only what I had to change as it progressed through break in....is it starting to make sense??
Just trying to share info.....sorry if that offends you :face-icon-small-dis. Now go ride!! :lips:


Brew

If you think I am trying to start some Internet war with you, you completely misjudge me. I despise that bickering stuff!

All I was ever trying to say was this. If you are at lower altitudes in wetter snow (like you likely have) then going up in pin weight makes sense. But you did not state in your statement at what altitude you rode at nor the snow conditions, many of these people would simply read what you are doin and say to themselves, "well, it works for him so that must be what I need to do". This all started because I simply wanted people to know that your riding altitude and your snow conditions might be considerably different than theirs, therefore the clutching you were doin would not apply.

When you said those changes WOULD apply to higher altitudes I gave it the thumbs down, as I didn't agree. It seems you took umbrage when none was intended, simple disagreement.

I also wanted people to know that from what you had said previously you still hadn't really done much climbing yet, mostly road riding. That again seemed a pertinent point.

Would an Etec at lower altitudes in firmer/wetter snow riding the road benefit from more pin weight to stay out of the rev-limiter, yes, no doubt, would that work for someone at 8000' with bottomless snow trying to get the rpm UP to 8000, not a snowballs chance in hell! I have 10 riding days of pounding the hills to prove it.

Those who want this to turn into another Internet fight can go pi$$ off. Can't we have a civil conversation where we can disagree?
 

winter brew

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This is the internet, we can't be civil...:face-icon-small-ton
Just to clarify...when I stated earlier... "My point was it continues to make more power as I get more time on it....should apply to any elevation."
I was not referring to the changes (adding weight)...but the increase in power that allowed the changes.
Anytime you can click down or add pin weight and maintain the same RPM under the same conditions/altitude, it means you are making more power.
On your sled, have you been able to click down from where you were at 100 miles and still get RPM? Or have you dropped some pin weight yet so you can run on 3-4??
See how civil I am? :rose:
 
C
Nov 23, 2009
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Seriously dude, I think you should go back and read the WBs original statement. It was never a clutching suggestion... he was stating the fact that the engine produced more power as the day progressed.
 
C

CBX

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Jan 21, 2008
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I'm at 245 miles now.....from 195-235 the only wierd thing going on was the vibration....no backfires, no stutter, no hiccup when off/on therottle....very crisp and strong. Then the last 10 miles it began to hesitate badly again and a couple more backfires. This was bad enough that if it happened on a techlical climb in the trees it could be a junk show! Hopefully it all goes away and stays away :face-icon-small-dis
It keeps gaining power....I have added pin weight, less primary spring, more helix and yesterday I started at 8,000 clicker 3, by the end of the day it was cliicker 1 at 8,000. :face-icon-small-hap

NuggetU, i'm asuming you are not color blind in red, so i highlighted the part that you seem to be arguing about here.

He didn't just add weight like you have been saying. And its probably a safe bet that the sled is properly set up. You had issues getting something as simple as your belt tension set properly, you even posted that somewhere. I would think (this might be a big if) that being that proper tension was an issue to get done properly, on your machine, can we all assume that maybe your machine isn't running at maximum potential...... Things like alignment, engine stoppers chain tension, track tension, track alignment, venting even shock and spring settings.

I'm not attacking you. I am stating, in the nicest way that I can, your machine probably isnt set up as well as Mr. Brews. In fact, i would bet money on that one.

Have you even had your clutches off and cleaned out all of the cosmoline, shipping oils and other garbage that it comes with from the factory?

I remember not too long ago on one of the snowest forums that one of the guys from Fastrax was complimenting Rooster built on their setups and riding abilites or something to that effect. You can probably assume from that one also that these guys aren't trail riders Nuggetu...
 
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