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Rudes 2005 snowhawk build

so i thought i would share my build with you guys! that way, i could get some input from the "guru's" you know who you are! and for any new to the snowhawk.

so here are some pics of my machine almost all torn down. the first thing i need to do is replace the left side frame due to a gay little jump into a ditch i did! landed on rock hard ice bump. machine stoped cold in its tracks while i did a front flip over my handel bars! this also bent the metal ski bracket that attaches the ski to the twin axis! so here is some pics to get us started!

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i hope i dident get over my head on this! the only thing im really worried about is my wireing harness! i un did all the tape when taking it out! have no idea how it goes back togather. oh well, its gonna be a while before i will have to deal with it! so i will be ordering the new frame next week, and be giving everything a good cleaning.
 
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cjgodden

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Nov 26, 2007
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Hey buddy, you'll be allright, we'll help you through it. I'll start off the suggestions for helping. I see you left the motor plate in the frame, thats the plate that the 4 bolts go through and into the bottom of the motor. It's a major pain in the butt to get those 4 bolts back in. It is easier to take the 8 smaller bolts from the sides of that plate so you can attach it to the motor with the motor upside down. You have to squish the rubber engine mounts to get the bolts started as they are not long enough to reach the threads after the rubber expands when removed.
 
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J&L Snowhawk

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bent frame

I think you should be able to straighten your frome with a hydrolic bottle jack.
I bent mine last year like that a fixed it. I then made a plate of alum. to bolt both frame halfs together, kinda like the motor plate. JMO
 

off road rider

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I think you should be able to straighten your frome with a hydrolic bottle jack.
I bent mine last year like that a fixed it. I then made a plate of alum. to bolt both frame halfs together, kinda like the motor plate. JMO

I agree, Ive straightened out many a mc frame get it straight and add some support.. Nice project, Cant wait to really get going on mine..
 
i havent looked at the wireing harrness since i toke it apart!

800 is geting a new crank, will need to order my RK TEK drop in kit and head very soon. got a tra 3 on order from a guy in toronto. team tied is the secondary im going with. and im geting a set of v-force reeds! need to order all my goodies from Steve (sleder 2)

now i just need to to figure out how im gonna keep her cool. think im gonna do a small air to air rad under the hood. you guys have any input on this?
 
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cjgodden

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Nov 26, 2007
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The rad is not a bad idea, i'm just not sure where you'd put it. The most logical place would be down low between the pipe and belly pan, you could route the line from the coolant tank to the rad and then to the water pump. The problem there is the heat from the pipe, and you would have to mod the bellt pan for air flow, also you would have the chance of the rad getting struck by somthing on the trail. Having a rad up high near the tripple clamps is more weight up high which I would want to avoid.

There is allways the relocation kit that puts the heat exchanger in the suspension. The Whistler guys have done this mod and just rave about how well it works. I am really concerned about this one as I do alot of tree riding and worry about having cooling hoses in the suspension.
 
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TLKDPROD

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Jan 25, 2008
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I think the only 2 useful places where you could add a second radiator is either :

1 - Right behind your headlight, headlight removed of course.
2 - Somewhere in the suspension.

Anywhere else and you might end up heating the coolant instead of lowering the temp espacially if you're close to the pipe, clutch or silencer... ! Unless you'd mount it at the very front of your bellypan on the outside, leaving 3/8" between the "motocross style" radiator and the bellypan itself. That sounds to me like a lot of figuring out to do (where do you run your lines, how do you properly fasten the rad...) and quite a bit of time that's for sure. I think this idea of having a "motocross style" radiator for trail riding could be great because of the speed you get and the low temperatures of winter, that would cool the Hawk way better than a bit of snow being thrown at it...

That being said, you could always buy my 800 Radiator that's got 3 coolers in there instead of 2 and use Engine Ice coolant. It's still in very good condition even if it looks like crap on the photo, that's because I didn't take the 30 minutes a guy would need to make it look good again. I overheated her for the first time ever last year with the Whistler boys but I have to say that they've overheated as well at about the same time as me ! Snow was just like asphalt below 3000' that day, nothing would get thrown up to the rad.

800 Rad 002.jpg Engine Ice Coolant.jpg
 
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cjgodden

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Nov 26, 2007
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Motox type rad up front is what I was thinking. Before I make any changes I'm going to run the stock 600 coolers and run engine ice for coolant and see if I have a trouble's.

The first 800 swap I did, the 600 coolers seemed to be enough, but I only ran that older 800 for a couple of rides, and the snow conditions were good. So we'll see.
 
i was thinkin a small atv rad sitting just above my mpem. then remove stock head light for ram air cooling. im just worried that the rad will be higher then the pressure relife valve on the overflow bottle. not sure if that will cause problems. would like to use some kind of quick disconent fittings that will stop flow when disconected for fast and easy removel. i also was thinkin of doing a custom hood to make it like a rally snow hawk. something
thaty would block some wind and i could mount some new lights and gagues in. kind of like this

http://www.advrider.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=123186&stc=1&d=1183507228
 
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TLKDPROD

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What you could do is put it right beside your coolant bottle and run a ram air through it from the "screen" on the right side of the bellypan. Build a scoop so it scoops in the oustide air and make a tunnel where the air is forced into your rad. Might be a bad spot to be for a rad when you'll go down on that side... And you might scoop in some snow...

That means you're not using the Mattech Exhaust suitcase though. But that's alright, we're gonna have good pipes coming soon for the 800s... Isn't that exciting !!!
 
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cjgodden

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Thats a good idea tlkd, if it were by the coolant tank it would be low enough and still be between the coolant tank and the water pump. Actually now that i think of the flow of coolant, that rad would have to be before the coolant tank, other wise warm up would take longer as the coolant would run the the rad when the t-stat was closed.
 
so here is an up date! got my new frame and gas tank today! wow that tank is big. need input from guys who did the 12 upgrade to thier 600s where did you cut your tunnell plastic. pics would be nice. the install instrucrtions told me to cut off right to the heat exchangers including the metal pice that sticks out 1 inch. (look at pic to see what i did)

i also installed my new frame and cleaned everythig. my ski looks shiny new!
so now its time to put here back togather. this is where it gets fun & Pricy

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S
Nov 26, 2007
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Hope this is on topic?

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If you look close, the exchangers on the 800 are tight to the frame rails unlike your 6Hunnert. See how ^^^^^^^^^^^^ the tank has a molded section that would rub on the alum.


"nice 07' TLK" See the weld repair ^^^^.
Rubber should go the same as original tank on the exchangers, pastic cuts where it angles.

Make a nylon lift strap out of a tiedown.
kx60.jpg
 
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