Enclosed trailer tips, tricks and ideas
- Thread starter FatDogX
- Start date
FatDogx, just take some of that left over Caliber traction and put it on the aluminum then the skis wont grab. My thought is the way it is screwed to the floor you have to pick it up when shutting the door, screw it to the door then just open and close door, might need a slight bend to clear if the radius is too steep. Might not work, IDK. I just see tearing up the traction if door is closed without lifting the aluminum.
mckinney
mckinney
Caliber makes some pieces specifically for the door and ramp transitions. I think that would solve your issues as well.
One issue that comes up with these longer 7 wide trailers is the back end dragging once and a while, when coming out of steeping driveways.
Did a little checking around and located some heavy duty plastic. Ended up cutting down to size, angled the ends and attached them to the underside by counter sinking the bolts. Now when it drags, it will drag on the skids, which when worn out, can be replaced.
Did a little checking around and located some heavy duty plastic. Ended up cutting down to size, angled the ends and attached them to the underside by counter sinking the bolts. Now when it drags, it will drag on the skids, which when worn out, can be replaced.
Also, took care of the carbides grabbing the door transitions.
Ended up picking up some SLP ski-slips.
These things work great!!! Easy on and easy off. Once you slip them on, up the ramp following the guides and loads super easy!! Plus another bonus with using these, no wear and tear on the floor at all!!!
Ended up picking up some SLP ski-slips.
These things work great!!! Easy on and easy off. Once you slip them on, up the ramp following the guides and loads super easy!! Plus another bonus with using these, no wear and tear on the floor at all!!!
I've notticed that on the outside of several trailers at bottom of the walk in door, numerous trailers tend to end up with a lot scratches, dings and small dents. Namely it appears to be from getting in and out of the trailer and guys kicking their boots off.
To remedy this, I went down to our local camper / enclosed trailer repair shop and ended up getting a small piece of aluminum tread plate that was just a little thicker then normal. They actually had a new scrap piece, so the price was just right!! Then off to a local collision repair supply shop and picked up some 3M two sided tape (super strength!!) and presto a little extra protection for the bottom of the door!
To remedy this, I went down to our local camper / enclosed trailer repair shop and ended up getting a small piece of aluminum tread plate that was just a little thicker then normal. They actually had a new scrap piece, so the price was just right!! Then off to a local collision repair supply shop and picked up some 3M two sided tape (super strength!!) and presto a little extra protection for the bottom of the door!
I used this to cover the ramps of my trailer 2 years ago. It is very thick and hard to get good coverage. It hasn't held up to well either. The granual stuff seems to just fall out of the paint after a while and you end up with it at the base of the ramp. I would not use it again.
Look into Deck Tile by Snaplock Industries for your flooring.
I posted about it in this forum: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353312&page=21
I used it all last season and it still looks brand new.
I posted about it in this forum: http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=353312&page=21
I used it all last season and it still looks brand new.
I am ready for some metal work meathooker!here's some stuff i made for mine:
folding table. 18" deep x 72" long. liked it so much i made another that is 20" x 72". helps so much to get all the stuff off the ground:
front end "entertainment center". built in speaker, cig plug, and (2) USB ports:
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