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'12 and '13 Update
- Thread starter Radar78
- Start date
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The tied wasn't really a fix for some guys. Aksnopro I believe had the tied setup and still blew belts.
You are correct and wasting money on a Team Tied Secondary is just that.. Also MDS weights are a GREAT addition but will NOT cure the problem.... not all all!!! it has been all over here last season
I have NOT seen this letter and my dealer ( Oregon Trail) said I should have received one in the Mail..( Thanks Shell)
I have no belt blower- but sure would like a new set of gears while I have it tore down doing a EVO new addition...
Can we get the letter in a printable version.. I would sure like to see it and read it.
Thanks...
S/C
I have NOT seen this letter and my dealer ( Oregon Trail) said I should have received one in the Mail..( Thanks Shell)
I have no belt blower- but sure would like a new set of gears while I have it tore down doing a EVO new addition...
Can we get the letter in a printable version.. I would sure like to see it and read it.
Thanks...
S/C
Tied helped me almost double my mileage out of a belt. Averaged around 200km per belt with the tied so definitely not a cure.
DWT what is the gearing in your sled? I ran a Team Tied in my sled and got 125 miles on a brand new 086 when it went. Regeared, went back to stock clutching and have over 1000 miles on an 086 that is still on the sled. Team set up was great in the hills, but, the minute I hit the lake it did the over shifted driven thing and ripped the belt in half. FYI, no shim like the stock driven has in it to prevent the belt from doing the "wave". A big part of what MtnValley does is regear.
What are you talking about here?
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Now I'm thinking abiut just doing MDS weights and a regear. What gearing seems to help? Sled is a 2012 high country 800. I do ride some trails with family.
Thanks!
***sorry to jack the thread***
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I wouldn't go any lower than 20/49, especially if ur not blowin belts or mountain riding all the time. I'm trying 20/50 if that fails I'll be running 20/49, and since I already have the stock 49T sprocket sitting on the shelf it'll be cheap. What's the gearing on HC's? Maybe u already have a 49T sprocket, so just add a $30 20T top sprocket and ur laughing
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X2, on everything except secondary bolt, I'm gonna try find some super strong helix bolts so hopefully secondary stays together this season. But if it pops apart again, I think it'll be time for a TIED
But waiting on ordering different helix's and springs until CAT GETS THEIR **** TOGETHER AND TELLS US WUTSUP!!
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Its 19/49 I believe. I want to do a hyvo conversion for strength and aslo a manual tensioner.
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Does anyone make better bolts? Maybe go grade 8 from a hardware store? ?
Thanks for any suggestions.
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I have STM's manual tensioner and TEAM sprockets, but still the stock chain. The chain has 1000 miles on it and seemed to fit over my 20/50 combo nicely, I was told that a new chain wouldn't have fit 20/50. But when the manual tensioner was put into position and snugged up against the chain, 1/2" of the bolt was still sticking out the backside of their ratchet block, so I had to cut the 1/2" off so i could get it to fit inside the chaincase! I shouldn't have had to do that. Anyone else have STM's tensioner? My worry is the chain isn't fully seated down into the teeth of the top sprocket, but I just can't tell, it looks fine.
Also the ring holding on the lower sprocket is a bitch to get off without the proper pliers, It's a retaining ring not a snap ring. Eventually I got it off by spreading the gap with snap ring pliers and prying it with a screwdriver. Then when it was off I just drilled 1/16" holes near the tips so I could use ordinary snap ring pliers to get it back on (extra large pliers cuz regular pliers didn't spread the ring enough to fit over the shaft). That's why I'd avoid removing bottom sprocket but it's obviously not impossible, just takes a lot of time and patience
I don't think we'll be seeing new sprockets from Cat but who really knows
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I'm sure everyone makes more reliable hardware than the chinese bolts Cat uses haha, Ming Ling's chopsticks just aren't cuttin it these days...
Guy on HCS gave me this link http://www.boltdepot.com/Metric_socket_flat_head_Class_12.9_steel_black_oil_finish.aspx
Not sure yet where I'll get them tho, any other suggestions?
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I geared down to the 20/49 as soon as I purchased the sled, but based on reviews I'll be gearing down even further to the 19/50. I'm not sure what Cat's update will include, if they actually follow through, but I'm convinced that it will be a band aid solution at best. I've read nothing but positive feedback from those who went with MtnValley. Those with a Team Tied have had mixed results.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
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DWT, I think going to 19/50 will be a big step in the right direction if you haven't warped your sheaves. I think you should bring it to NPS and have it regeared to 19/50, there is a big difference in belt life from 20/49. I have run both, and had way more success with the 19/50. Of the sleds I know of that went to 19/50, (20 to 30) there is a 100% success rate with regard to belt life. You maybe pleased and surprised as to NPS's responce to your request. Good Luck!
The 19/50 gearing is a Pro Climb M sled thing, don't have any experience with XF sleds.
With regard to what I was refering to with the "wave": In under the hood video on 2012 sleds it was revealed that when run at wide open throttle in good shift out conditions the driven clutch would overrun the drive clutch in rotation, "piling" the belt up on the upper leg between the driven and drive clutches causing a "wave" to form in the belt. This is what was causing all the black rubber on the drive sheaves after a belt "exploding" in half. The "wave" causes miss alignment, hooks outside edges out of the sheaves and whamo! This is why Arctic Cat added the plastic shim in the driven, to keep it from shifting out far enough to cause the overrun and subsequent "wave".
Hard to explain without props, but, hope this helps.
The 19/50 gearing is a Pro Climb M sled thing, don't have any experience with XF sleds.
With regard to what I was refering to with the "wave": In under the hood video on 2012 sleds it was revealed that when run at wide open throttle in good shift out conditions the driven clutch would overrun the drive clutch in rotation, "piling" the belt up on the upper leg between the driven and drive clutches causing a "wave" to form in the belt. This is what was causing all the black rubber on the drive sheaves after a belt "exploding" in half. The "wave" causes miss alignment, hooks outside edges out of the sheaves and whamo! This is why Arctic Cat added the plastic shim in the driven, to keep it from shifting out far enough to cause the overrun and subsequent "wave".
Hard to explain without props, but, hope this helps.
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I got the pliers haha. I work in my family business which is an auto shop. My dads beec collecting tools since the 70s and his new massive tool box is already packed. Its one of the biggest on the market.
Looks like I'm going to do 19/50. Do I need to change weights or helixes at all??
Thanks, Brad.
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Might have to go a little lighter on your weights. I know MVMS runs a lighter primary and secondary spring and lighter weights. Normally when gearing down you go a little lighter on weight.
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stock secondary? the straight 36 should be good at elevation, maybe a 42/38 or 44/40 or something for <3000'? I know Cat recommends the 42/40 for low elevation but they recomend a lot of **** that doesn't always make sense lol. I've yet to decide on my low and high elevation setups, I'm STILL WAITING ON CAT TO SEE WHAT I GET!!!! If anything
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It is a stock secondary WITH the cat low elevation kit in it. It has everything from the kit, it was swapped in at the dealer I purchased it from.
Any clutch recommendations? haha.
Thanks for all the help, Brad.
***Sorry OP, hi-jacking almost over***
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Ryan don't mind he's too busy watchin thunderstruck 11 :face-icon-small-ton
last year I ran 110/290 poo primary spring and 42/40 helix back home, and stock 36 helix and spring up high. Stock gearing, MDS weights. Give it til late August tho, I know a lot of guys including myself are holding off on setups for next year until we know if we're getting anything new
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