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Who welds/balances bottom ends

A
Dec 19, 2011
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Topic name says it all.
Who out there can build a crank that can handle some serious boost? All my bike stuff was through mongoose machine in/by Vancouver.
 

revx827

Member
Lifetime Membership
Jun 27, 2009
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floatingqrs.com
At what boost do you need to weld the crank?
I was planning to start out with low boost. Plan to turn it up.
Just wondering if I should just weld it to start with.
 
G
Apr 23, 2008
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A rotax crank is one tough mother, the rod pins are taper lock so its a real strong unit..

U dont need to weld it for a turbo, its just protection from a blown belt or clutch failure, when that happens with the extra clutch weight and more aggressive shift of the turbo you can knock the crank out .010 or more..

The welded pin resists that but is not bullet proof..

Balancing is a moot point on that engine, its smoother than the best R version too.

if you are going to live at my boost levels then its a must.. Most kits guys wont tell you in fear you may skip out on the buy if you really HAD to weld it..

Did the pics go thru ?

Gus
 
A
Dec 19, 2011
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True it , weld the pto pin and thats all . Simple and to date perfect..


worth truing a new crank? pics of where and how the weld looked.

and how long to date is perfect and at what boost?

pics?


thanks for the replies.

Im aiming for above 10 psi full time. (15 ideally)
 

byeatts

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 29, 2007
3,402
1,215
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20 psi and up
yes true it of course....001 max total from end to end
no pics cranks is still in engine lol !!!!

keep in mind once you weld it ,the core exchange is void on the next time around .
 

summitboy

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 26, 2007
2,146
851
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Funny, we talked to CV Tech about welding a XP crank and they said you can weld it and true it but it won't last that long. Just a porr design so they said. Funny how there are so many different opinions and ideas. Which is correct ?
 
G
Apr 23, 2008
1,576
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Funny, we talked to CV Tech about welding a XP crank and they said you can weld it and true it but it won't last that long. Just a porr design so they said. Funny how there are so many different opinions and ideas. Which is correct ?

on the R motor.. Adrien is refering to the piss poor R crank not lasting period, the weld has no way of helping a bad crank live..lol



Yes I tig my own but any welder who is good with a tig can fuse the pin to the wheel without adding any rod. no change in mass or balance.. Just the pto pin is welded.


Byeatts,, Why worry about the next time around if you doooo it Right the first time ?
 
Last edited:
G
Apr 23, 2008
1,576
981
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sorry thought you were into the ho's

the R crank is poor at best,, bad choice go get a rev !!!!

you would be more apt to fail the R crank so welding the pins is NEVER a bad idea for a turbo...Never. Plus it allows you to inspect the poor crank and determine its health before you add 100 hp to it !!!
 

byeatts

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 29, 2007
3,402
1,215
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on the R motor.. Adrien is refering to the piss poor R crank not lasting period, the weld has no way of helping a bad crank live..lol



Yes I tig my own but any welder who is good with a tig can fuse the pin to the wheel without adding any rod. no change in mass or balance.. Just the pto pin is welded.


Byeatts,, Why worry about the next time around if you doooo it Right the first time ?

Really! On the mountain Sled I change the crank out every 2000 miles. Mine are all trued and have several which are welded also.No core value if welded
 
G
Apr 23, 2008
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WOW man, thats some serious service interval ..

I guess I milk the cow till the tits are red !!! LMAO ooops :face-icon-small-ton:crutch:

What kind of wear or damage do you see ? Anything that makes you worry ?

The R is here to stay, BRP must not feel like its the bad egg that some do..

anything you might see that can help is nice to know...


gus
 

byeatts

Well-known member
Premium Member
Nov 29, 2007
3,402
1,215
113
WOW man, thats some serious service interval ..

I guess I milk the cow till the tits are red !!! LMAO ooops :face-icon-small-ton:crutch:

What kind of wear or damage do you see ? Anything that makes you worry ?

The R is here to stay, BRP must not feel like its the bad egg that some do..

anything you might see that can help is nice to know...


gus
Typically they still look good.Some seal leakage at Mag, Iso still soft.Its that bit of security.2000 mile on the mountain is same wear a s 3000 trail . I,m always trying new 880 porting /setup so I guess I look forward to the teardown
 
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