Wondering if there is a way to check the clutch alignment without the tool? I was thinking with all the smart wrenchers we've got around here that someone may have a way to check this.....
Clutch alignment...... without tool?
- Thread starter MikeMetzger
- Start date
I've got the tool, but don't live even remotely close to you. Maybe someone near you has one. Otherwise, if you're not throwing belts, you're likely in alignment. If you replace motor mounts, replace one a a time and you should maintain alignment.
I Had one belt that started to go last ride, swapped it out and now I feel like this one is slowly starting to go (same day) Granted I believe the one I swapped to was used, but thought maybe there was a way to some what check without having the tool....
A
All that is really adjustable is the secondary offset. We've found that most Pro's come from the factory or dealers with the secondary to far from the bulkhead. I don't have the exact measurement but a good rule of thumb is if you're pulling cords on the outside move your secondary in by removing a shim from the jackshaft while maintaining a little secondary float. If you're pulling cords on the inside shim your secondary out a bit. I do believe that someone finally built a better mousetrap in the Gates 44C4553, I've got about 350 miles on one that I have been abusing something terrible in some long heated powder pulls and it still looks and performs like new with no heat fade. I would have positively ruined a 321115 today riding 2.5' feet of over the hood powder today at nearly 30 degrees. The belt performed flawlessly and looks like new.
M
to check the engine alignment you put something straight (!) along the back of the clutches, holding it firm to the sec clutch and measure the distance from the prim clutch to your straight edge.
First at the front of the prim clutch, then at the back. The difference between these two measures should be 2mm. (About 1/13 of an inch)
However clutch setup is key to long belt life, i ran my last/first belt almost 2000 miles and its still in good condition, 75% deep pow throttle to the bars! (The dealer laughed when he checked my WOT % since new...)
First at the front of the prim clutch, then at the back. The difference between these two measures should be 2mm. (About 1/13 of an inch)
However clutch setup is key to long belt life, i ran my last/first belt almost 2000 miles and its still in good condition, 75% deep pow throttle to the bars! (The dealer laughed when he checked my WOT % since new...)
A rough "eyeball" method that works on any sled/clutches...looking straight down on the clutches, the belt should just be kissing the inner (stationary) sheave, with all belt/sheave clearance to the outer (movable) sheave.
why not let it float, its always in alignment as it shifts?easy done on the team
A
That's what I have done I remove one shim behind the secondary and run it. never had belt problems
Have done 5... maybe 6 belts (blown 1, pulled cords on a couple, and a couple with flat spots)...have lost count at this point, on my 2014 with under 500 miles. I blew a belt at 1000 on my 11, and ran the replacement till I sold it at 1700. Replaced the belt on my 13 at 1000 as preventative and ran that belt to 1800. So I have had good luck until now.
Couple of possible issues. I have rode super wet, heavy, deep pow for about 200 of those miles and had issues with the track locking/clutches spinning on the belt when stuck. This is a deflection adjustment issue I am assuming? Any advice on adjustment besides what the manual says, I have been adjusted pretty much right at spec since new, but still experience the slippage. I should be adjusting so that the belt sits higher in the secondary right (tighter?)?
Secondly I have pretty bad squeal at idle coming from the primary rubbing on the belt. I originally thought it was from getting snow in the clutches, but looks to me like the belt rubs on the outer sheave. Based on what I read above I need to remove one of or some of the shims behind the secondary until the belt makes contact with the inner sheave rather than the outer sheave, correct?
With the 115 belts costing what they do I definitely need to get my issues figured out. Also planning to send my clutches out to Indy Dan this summer, to have them rebalanced, and the primary cut to match the belt angle... then hopefully trs clutching after that.
Couple of possible issues. I have rode super wet, heavy, deep pow for about 200 of those miles and had issues with the track locking/clutches spinning on the belt when stuck. This is a deflection adjustment issue I am assuming? Any advice on adjustment besides what the manual says, I have been adjusted pretty much right at spec since new, but still experience the slippage. I should be adjusting so that the belt sits higher in the secondary right (tighter?)?
Secondly I have pretty bad squeal at idle coming from the primary rubbing on the belt. I originally thought it was from getting snow in the clutches, but looks to me like the belt rubs on the outer sheave. Based on what I read above I need to remove one of or some of the shims behind the secondary until the belt makes contact with the inner sheave rather than the outer sheave, correct?
With the 115 belts costing what they do I definitely need to get my issues figured out. Also planning to send my clutches out to Indy Dan this summer, to have them rebalanced, and the primary cut to match the belt angle... then hopefully trs clutching after that.
goridedoo I always set my belt deflection by getting it to grab a little at idle(sled moves forward on flat surface) then back it off until it doesn't grab anymore, but that's just me.
M
According to the Poo race handbook:
1. Drive the sled until fully warm clutches, normal clutch operating temp ~140F.
2. Put it up on a stand so the track hangs free.
3. Adjust until it barely drags the track around at idle, there shall be no problem to stop the track with you foot.
goridedoo, i don't think the biggest problem is alignment issues since you've had alot of different belt failures! i would bet my money on springs and weights, the manual only gives a general estimate!
that or bushing failure causing the clutches to lockup...
in wide terms: hard springs and heavy weights gives more belt pressure and more forgiving clutching.
1. Drive the sled until fully warm clutches, normal clutch operating temp ~140F.
2. Put it up on a stand so the track hangs free.
3. Adjust until it barely drags the track around at idle, there shall be no problem to stop the track with you foot.
goridedoo, i don't think the biggest problem is alignment issues since you've had alot of different belt failures! i would bet my money on springs and weights, the manual only gives a general estimate!
that or bushing failure causing the clutches to lockup...
in wide terms: hard springs and heavy weights gives more belt pressure and more forgiving clutching.
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BTW, a bad squeal at idle typically means that your belt is riding too high on the secondary. Open up the sheaves.
M
I didn't intend to offend you, your way works just fine IF you have, which you do, a good feel for how its supposed to be!
I was merely suggesting that if you're having problems with abnormal belt wear it's probably best to do it "by the book" to rule out the possibility of wrenching errors.
For what it's worth, doo's race manuals in the 90s had tested float for alignment, and found that under power a floated secondary does not move under power (it binds).
With that said, I had lower temps on Revs with a floated secondary (and TRA), but float wasn't excessive. So, I assume some float is good, but like ice cream, too much makes you slower.
With that said, I had lower temps on Revs with a floated secondary (and TRA), but float wasn't excessive. So, I assume some float is good, but like ice cream, too much makes you slower.
No problem, but since you had quoted me in your original post. It looked to me as if you were stating that I was doing it wrong.
btw I deleted my post as it was not adding anything to this thread..
Hey Mike, I own the Polaris SPX alignment tool. If you feel like coming down to the south end, I'd be more than happy to check it for you. I have had excellent results with it after adjustment and every '12 and '13 Pro I have checked has been out in offset of the secondary.
Let me know. I still owe you for you sponsoring my daughter with you goggles.
Let me know. I still owe you for you sponsoring my daughter with you goggles.
Good point...
And, once off the power, the clutch will float.
My riding style has me on and off the power a lot... and I float the secondary more than most, and grease the splines a bit with CV-joint-grease (extreme pressure grease) ... have not had an issue.
And, once off the power, the clutch will float.
My riding style has me on and off the power a lot... and I float the secondary more than most, and grease the splines a bit with CV-joint-grease (extreme pressure grease) ... have not had an issue.
Hell yeah, I'd love to make sure that my clutch is setup right not just for the performance part of it, but also to not be fricking blowing $200 belts left and right....
you can remove the bolt completely, The secondary will follow the primary shift, The only need for the bolt is so when a belt breaks the clutch don't fly off. Just sayin a floated lubed clutch self aligns.
