cpi has been the best so far. dyno port has been hard to tune.
Engine damage when stinger fails on stock pipe
- Thread starter hivoltagesledhead
- Start date
Just to answer some of the questions that Bryce had about the stinger..
-my pipe WAS welded to the turbo....
-my sled has 300 miles on it PERIOD,200 turbo miles and 100 non-turbo miles, so the pipe was not old
-my seams were welded and reinforced from day 1
I think the builders need to tell people about this problem and advise against running the stock pipe.
I believe there will be many more failures to come from existing kits...
Just my opinion,but then again,my $$$$$ down the drain as well.
-my pipe WAS welded to the turbo....
-my sled has 300 miles on it PERIOD,200 turbo miles and 100 non-turbo miles, so the pipe was not old
-my seams were welded and reinforced from day 1
I think the builders need to tell people about this problem and advise against running the stock pipe.
I believe there will be many more failures to come from existing kits...
Just my opinion,but then again,my $$$$$ down the drain as well.
Thabks for posting the pics nutty. My compression wheel is nowhere near that beat up....I will run it as is for now until I build up the old money pot again.
Please pm me your connection for the center section. $800 for what I could find on line.
Can I just put on a new compressor wheel or will that **** up the balancing?
U
So what is the easiest way to remove the internal stinger?
the weld that esists right whre the stinger goes into the fat part of the pipe, cut around it on the fat side, just enough to cut the outer layer of pipe, then pull the thing as far out as it will go, about 1', then cut that off and let the little flared end come out the Y-pipe end.. cut the stinger totalyl off where you did your initial cut and reweld.
U
Sweet thanks, I just ran out to the garage and did it. It only took about 30 min. Man the sled is growly now. Kinda seems like i picked up a little bit of throttle response. I am wondering how this is going to affect the jetting. My guess is that I am going to have to add some fuel to the fuel screws because there is less restriction in the pipe so it will flow more. I will just have to keep a close eye on the egt gauge for the first while.
Kinda makes you wonder if this might not be a good mod for the stock guys....hmmmm
Considering most of the aftermarket pipes out there have no stinger in them. I have a crankshop pipe sitting here in my shop, no stinger.
Kinda makes you wonder if this might not be a good mod for the stock guys....hmmmm
Considering most of the aftermarket pipes out there have no stinger in them. I have a crankshop pipe sitting here in my shop, no stinger.
they definately sound MEAN!! the sled we just did with it on has to be one of the most nasty sounding turbo 2 strokes I have heard, very throaty.
I dont know what they do.. but I DO know, its so dang easy to do that there is NO reason for it to be in your turbo sled.
I dont know what they do.. but I DO know, its so dang easy to do that there is NO reason for it to be in your turbo sled.
You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of where you cut the stinger out of the pipe?
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
Sent from my DROIDX using Tapatalk
I dont, but to explain how it is setup, the end of the pipe that has the spring tabs on it just continues into the pipe for about a foot and then has a little flared out end, if you cut pipe off right at the weld where the outlet tube enters the fat part, its easy to see, just cut on the "upstream" side of the weld, then pull it out as far as you can, but the flared peice wont fit through the hole. Look at the picture in the first post, where it broke off is right at the welded joint going into the fat part, you cut it there, pull out as far as you can and then knock the flared part out and let it fall out the other end.. it freaked me out cutting into the pipe, but once you get going, its VERY obvious what to do.
also, knowing the end is flared helped me a lot to.
also, knowing the end is flared helped me a lot to.
U
Just got back from the first ride with the stinger out. The sled feels much snappier in the mid range and more responsive. It is leaner across the board the mid-range gets hot real quick so going down the trail i had to really watch my egt's and vary the throttle position to keep it cool. I ended up opening the fuel screws 1/4 turn. Full throttle was getting to 1250 but came down to high 11's after opening the fuel screws. I gained about 200 rpm on the tach than before with the stinger in.
It feels like it may fall a little flatter on the top end than with the stinger in but it could have been due to wierd snow conditions. Made some nasty pulls up some crap that sucks coming back down. There is nothing like climbing a chute at 65 mph.
I am riding again tomorrow so i will report back. I am going to try to run it at a slightly lower RPM tomorrow to see if it fixes the falling flat on the top end. I might have been running it at too high of an RPM for the pipe harmonics and flow.
It feels like it may fall a little flatter on the top end than with the stinger in but it could have been due to wierd snow conditions. Made some nasty pulls up some crap that sucks coming back down. There is nothing like climbing a chute at 65 mph.
I am riding again tomorrow so i will report back. I am going to try to run it at a slightly lower RPM tomorrow to see if it fixes the falling flat on the top end. I might have been running it at too high of an RPM for the pipe harmonics and flow.
Cool!
I'll bet it will work great if you bring you're RPM down. Just have to clutch it cause its making more power. Gotta love mods!
I'll bet it will work great if you bring you're RPM down. Just have to clutch it cause its making more power. Gotta love mods!
What jet are you running with the stinger out and what elevation. Same for the CPI pipe what jets are you running
Well I just got home and all my engine parts are sittin on my bench just cryin out "put me back together." . New engine,new pipe,new jetting,shockwave helix to try....sled should be runnin great by tomorrow.
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N
Hey shawn...if you run the shockwave make sure you put the high torque rollers in your secondary as well...stock rollers wont last very long. The shockwave helix has a little narrower bearing surface.
get that hot rod put together so we can get some feed back on the pipe
get that hot rod put together so we can get some feed back on the pipe
Sled is running. Sounds good. Neils pipe sounds like my stock one with the busted stinger. Super tight fit. Sled idles now,wouldnt do that with a busted stinger. Egt temps are a lot closer together as well at idle...30 deg apart instead of 70. Idles in the high 300 to low 400 range. No bells or alarms or codes so far....so thats a step up from trying to jet for a busted pipe. Will break her in at 7 lbs and then tune it for 10 -12. Tomorrow should be a good day.....finally. The helix does have high torque rollers in it already. My buddy uses it for drag racing so it is good to go.
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Well, didnt get to ride today,I have a leaking base gasket. Get to tear the whole thing down again next weekend and put it back together again. Of all the times I have torn engines down,this is the first time I have had a leaky gasket....someone just doesnt want me to ride this year...lol. Also spent the day snowblowing the 2 ft of fluff that fell last nite....oh if i only had a sled.
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Well, still trying to get the base gasket to stop leaking...3 different gaskets now and still leaking. Time to pull out the gasket maker goo. This damn sled will run....one day.
T
What are the symptoms or how do you know its leaking? What does a leaking base gasket do? We are trying to figure why are tuning is so different from others. My brothers turbo xp won't idle and he has 15 pilots and its way lean. The A/F is pegged to the right and will start to come down if we pull the choke on slightly. The bottom end is so lean that its got run-on really bad and you have to pull the choke to get it to come down. We are going to try 17.5 pilots but wondering why other are running 12.5 and 10 and we are at 17. Maybe a leaky base gasket? It runs great 1/4 to WOT, just won't idle and lean until 1/4 throttle. Thinking of maybe air leak somewhere, or maybe its the CPI pipe idles different, or the RK tek pistons he has in it?
T
FYI there are two different type of base gaskets. One a 3 port and one a 4 port I guess.
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