Losing RPM... and I want it back!
- Thread starter backcountryislife
- Start date
Well, clickers IMO make sense as an ability to compensate easily for altitude. In that regard, being that I ride at the upper level of altitude that a sled will ever see, it seems logical to me that it being at #6 there would make sense.
I'll likely end up with a clutch kit from RB or IBS in the end, but I don't want to take that step until I'm where my motor will live long term (860 installed) so for now this discussion is providing me with some valuable info in the differences from cat clutching to doo, and helping me understand how to set this sled up a little better if for some reason my turbo never sells & I don't get the 860!!
I'll likely end up with a clutch kit from RB or IBS in the end, but I don't want to take that step until I'm where my motor will live long term (860 installed) so for now this discussion is providing me with some valuable info in the differences from cat clutching to doo, and helping me understand how to set this sled up a little better if for some reason my turbo never sells & I don't get the 860!!
The clicker position (as you probably know) changes the angle of the ramp. Ragardless of what ramp it is, it will be "less responsive" at low speeds and tend to pull a little harder on top when set on lower (1-2) clicker....and "snappier" but lacking in top end pull on a higher clicker (5-6). This is all assuming the pin weight is adjusted to achieve proper RPM on that particular clicker. IMO, just getting proper RPM does not equate to proper clutch setup.....far from it.
3-4 is a good balance of throttle response, upshift, backshift etc...with the clutching in your XM.
If you have to be on 6 (even at highest altitude) you are giving up free performance. I would simply make sure the pin weights are empty, that is what the majority of stock clutched XM's are doing at that altitude...maybe they already are.
3-4 is a good balance of throttle response, upshift, backshift etc...with the clutching in your XM.
If you have to be on 6 (even at highest altitude) you are giving up free performance. I would simply make sure the pin weights are empty, that is what the majority of stock clutched XM's are doing at that altitude...maybe they already are.
D
I already told him he needed hollow pins but he won't listen to a cat guy!
Nah... I'll listen to cat guys, I just avoid listening to CHEESEheads!!:lol:
I'm heading to Moab, so working on the trail rig for a few days instead of the sled, once I get back I'll tear into it a bit more.
I'm heading to Moab, so working on the trail rig for a few days instead of the sled, once I get back I'll tear into it a bit more.
Mine does similar stuff. Roll on long pulls it goes down to 7500, hard pulls from a stop it goes 7800 all day long. Sorry if this has been covered, I didn't read everything: Skidoo screwed up the ECU mapping this year badly. Every Etec I have ridden has a 1/4 throttle bog. More of a hesitation actually, hold it 1/4 throttle for a few seconds, it goes, but then it kicks in like it should, just with a delay. Clutching does not help it much. I know a guy who spent a couple days riding a 2014, he says it is night and day different,very snappy on the bottom compared to his 2013. The 2013 XM sleds need an ecu update. The only way we are going to get it is to bitch to BRP, I got my dealer to do it, no help.
Now for a comparison, I have a 2013 137 Freeride that is calibrated for sea level. The mapping on that is worse, almost dangerous to ride. If you cruise around at 1/4 throttle (I ride 5-8K) and need power to jump a creek or drop off something, you get a bog and backfire. It is scary to ride, I always give it a big WFO cleanout before dropping a cornice so I dont land on my nose.
And I can tell you from experience, do NOT throw a purple spring in the secondary hoping for better backshift and snap. I killed a belt in 50 miles and left rubber on the sheaves, it was way too stiff of a spring for that cam and primary setup. I spent the first 50 miles with the siode panels open and dumping snow on the boiling hot clutches, the second 50 cutting loose cords off so I could get out.
I am calling BRP, I encourage every XM owner to do the same. I rode my XM, my Freeride, a demo XM, my buddy rode a rental XM in Utah, my brother who rides sleds ONCE a year with me, all of us commented on the 1/4 throttle hesitation. It is bs, pay this much for a sled and it should run right.
Oh, also, my Freeride (again, sea level calibration, but with lighter primary pins, it pulls proper RPMS), used almost 3/4 tank of oil for 8.5 gallons of gas. That isn't what Skidoo advertised, and is a big part of why I bought a couple of them.
Skidoo isn't going to voluntarily offer an ECU update that costs them money unless people complain about it. I want updated mapping, especially before I take my wife out riding and the sled puts her on her nose in sa creek.
Chris
Now for a comparison, I have a 2013 137 Freeride that is calibrated for sea level. The mapping on that is worse, almost dangerous to ride. If you cruise around at 1/4 throttle (I ride 5-8K) and need power to jump a creek or drop off something, you get a bog and backfire. It is scary to ride, I always give it a big WFO cleanout before dropping a cornice so I dont land on my nose.
And I can tell you from experience, do NOT throw a purple spring in the secondary hoping for better backshift and snap. I killed a belt in 50 miles and left rubber on the sheaves, it was way too stiff of a spring for that cam and primary setup. I spent the first 50 miles with the siode panels open and dumping snow on the boiling hot clutches, the second 50 cutting loose cords off so I could get out.
I am calling BRP, I encourage every XM owner to do the same. I rode my XM, my Freeride, a demo XM, my buddy rode a rental XM in Utah, my brother who rides sleds ONCE a year with me, all of us commented on the 1/4 throttle hesitation. It is bs, pay this much for a sled and it should run right.
Oh, also, my Freeride (again, sea level calibration, but with lighter primary pins, it pulls proper RPMS), used almost 3/4 tank of oil for 8.5 gallons of gas. That isn't what Skidoo advertised, and is a big part of why I bought a couple of them.
Skidoo isn't going to voluntarily offer an ECU update that costs them money unless people complain about it. I want updated mapping, especially before I take my wife out riding and the sled puts her on her nose in sa creek.
Chris
The brunette you mean? Well, I'm still kinda partial to blondes... my wife's pretty hot.
I doubt those chicks know how to ride a sled either... weak.
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BCIL the Doo track is noisy. Some of that if from the snow but you will also hear noise from the clips(maybe somewhere else). I have run the track really tight, medium and had them got pretty loose and they always make noise. I just ignore it now.
S
Didn't read all replys fully but this IS a solution for a lot of "Lost RPM problems".
http://www.engine-tech.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=1_7&products_id=48
We put it on a friends MY13 Etec 800 and it worked miracles on it. Clutches even ran cooler when the Engine started to behave itself.
I am getting one this summer for mine!
Edit: Both our sleds are XP based MY13 Lynx Boondocker 800s, but i guess the XM has the same cooling system as the XP had.
http://www.engine-tech.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=1_7&products_id=48
We put it on a friends MY13 Etec 800 and it worked miracles on it. Clutches even ran cooler when the Engine started to behave itself.
I am getting one this summer for mine!
Edit: Both our sleds are XP based MY13 Lynx Boondocker 800s, but i guess the XM has the same cooling system as the XP had.
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S
the calender pic is to small.LOL.
T
I Run this housing on my sled to ,but Dave Trygstad has a water manifold that works way better only see 2 and rarely 3 bar's .Lol not pushing Daves stuff just helping a fello Doo guy.CR Racing also has one that uses a cat thermostat. My buddy runs on his that works about the same as Engine -techs.Cheers
S
interesting .. I was looking for something like this for my sled .. will give it a try next season
you'll hurt fuel economy and emissions by running cooler .. but those are least of my concerns !
Well... RPM's were PERFECT this weekend...
I was hitting about 1400 consistently, clutching was spot on... and it climbed really well.
Might order one of those housings & see how that works next weekend, it's been pretty warn, and the rest of the year will likely be 50+ degree days, so heat is a real concern.
I was hitting about 1400 consistently, clutching was spot on... and it climbed really well.
Might order one of those housings & see how that works next weekend, it's been pretty warn, and the rest of the year will likely be 50+ degree days, so heat is a real concern.
if that's you on the rock taking the picture I see your rpm issue...its the same as mine...
HAHA... nah, I'm not far from that, but I'm driving!
I knew that..i just could not pass up the sarcasm...
S
Running the Rev thermostat recommended will only lower the temp a few degrees, I cannot imagine that affecting fuel consumption noticeably.
Oh btw, found the pins weren't hollow...
The day they built this for me to demo, I was there waiting & they tossed it out the door quick for me, and then I just decided to take it & it got overlooked. Easy fix!
So how much difference should that make?
The day they built this for me to demo, I was there waiting & they tossed it out the door quick for me, and then I just decided to take it & it got overlooked. Easy fix!
So how much difference should that make?
BCIL, I bet you'll find those R's you've been looking for. Running Paul's kit I ended up at 12.5 grams of total weight at our elevation on my 163. Stock hollow pins weigh 12.2 grams. You'll probably drop a clicker or two and gain a couple hundred R's. Keep us posted.
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