• Don't miss out on all the fun! Register on our forums to post and have added features! Membership levels include a FREE membership tier.

Need Phaser 2 Help

R
Jun 14, 2008
651
39
28
Southern Idaho
Pickup a 1991 Phaser2 for the grandkids to ride. Took to the mountains for the first time last Sunday. Would have a hard time keeping it running a low idle. Could only get it to rev up if I choked it first then it would run great once it got going. As long as it was throttled up it would run but when it slowed down to turn it would die. I know I need to take carbs and clean them first.But looking at them ( all that is hooked to them )whre do you start? Dop you unhook all the cables, pull the air box? Where should I start? Have worked on my newer sleds all the time but this one is way different carbs. Any help would be great as the grandkids are waiting to go.
Thanks and sorry for the long post.
 
A
Jan 13, 2012
308
694
93
Central Washington
I trust you have already checked the pilot air screws (little brass screws on the top of the carbs) for proper adjustment. Screw all the way in until they lightly seat, then back out 1 and one half turn.

For what its worth, every time I have had that low speed or mid range bog in a phazer I was able to cure it by just removing the large bolt on the bottom of the carbs without removing the carbs from the machine. The main jet is in there. Every time I found the passage in the main jets to have some crud which when removed cured the problem.

Yes remove the air box if you have to take the carbs off. It's been a while but I remember there is a bolt holding the air box. I think it is hard to see and is somewhere near the left rear of the box. Oh, and take the secondary clutch off for much better access.

It is pretty straight forward. Disconnect cables, fuel lines ( have a proper size bolt handy to plug the fuel lines when you disconnect them. Don't seperate the carbs from the mount connecting them...they are syncronized.

If you haven't been into a phazer carb, you will see they are a little different. Some rubber plugs...which can cause your flat spot problems if they are loose...over the jets. Don't get carb cleaner on the rubber parts...rubber O rings on the inricher plungers too.

A shop manual or at least a phazer carb diagram would be a big help to you if you can find one.
 
R
Jun 14, 2008
651
39
28
Southern Idaho
I trust you have already checked the pilot air screws (little brass screws on the top of the carbs) for proper adjustment. Screw all the way in until they lightly seat, then back out 1 and one half turn.

For what its worth, every time I have had that low speed or mid range bog in a phazer I was able to cure it by just removing the large bolt on the bottom of the carbs without removing the carbs from the machine. The main jet is in there. Every time I found the passage in the main jets to have some crud which when removed cured the problem.

Yes remove the air box if you have to take the carbs off. It's been a while but I remember there is a bolt holding the air box. I think it is hard to see and is somewhere near the left rear of the box. Oh, and take the secondary clutch off for much better access.

It is pretty straight forward. Disconnect cables, fuel lines ( have a proper size bolt handy to plug the fuel lines when you disconnect them. Don't seperate the carbs from the mount connecting them...they are syncronized.

If you haven't been into a phazer carb, you will see they are a little different. Some rubber plugs...which can cause your flat spot problems if they are loose...over the jets. Don't get carb cleaner on the rubber parts...rubber O rings on the inricher plungers too.

A shop manual or at least a phazer carb diagram would be a big help to you if you can find one.

Thanks the air adjust screw did the trick. One side was out more than the other. Runs fine :hail:
 
G
Dec 19, 2010
15
0
1
no need to remove air box

i just got done doing this on my daughters 95 phazer 2 and all you really need to do is remove the secondary clutch and there are little boots between the carbs and air box pull them off and than the carbs should come out once everything is disconnected from them
 
R
Oct 15, 2011
80
3
8
washington
i would take that stupid oiling system out of the equation, save yourself a top end rebuild, have known and had many exciters lose an oil pump for no particular reason. one thing to do is to just disconnect the cable and mix it at 40:1, thats the safest way to ensure proper oiling. but if you still wanna run that oiling system, drill a 1/2 in hole in the front closest to the recoil side about mid way up and top of air box towards the gas trank and fish the cable through there, this will limit the binding of the cable. which is the down fall to alot of the exciters oiling system.
 

LoneViper

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 28, 2007
515
328
63
74
Great Falls, Montana
A good place for the switch is opposit the trip reset knob. To the right. I always used Hot Grips and wired them for high and low with the supplied resistor. I think if you look, there are a pair of loose wires under the speedometer, can't remember the color but they will be there. Everything to the grips wires in series.
 

MTN_VIPER

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
980
442
63
NW WA St.
fourstrokesolutionsllc.com
Back for more help.
Will a 01 polaris 136 track and skid fit a 91 phaser 2?

I was able to put in a 136" x 1.25" track in mine and still use the stock 8 tooth drivers. A 136" 1.25" track turns the Phazer II into a decent little mountain sled and seems to be well matched to the horsepower that the engine puts out.
Not sure about the polaris skid, but I'm sure it could be done.
If the skid doesn't work out, Hartman INC has rail extensions for older Yamahas.
 
Last edited:
V

volcano buster

Well-known member
Nov 26, 2007
4,222
1,614
113
Stayton Oregon
The 136x1.25 was the hot set up on those. I think rail extensions would be just as easy on that sled. The Phazer suspension was plenty light so you were adding too much weight to the sled by going to something else.
 

mysledblows

Well-known member
Lifetime Membership
Nov 26, 2007
480
67
28
Minnesota
136 x1.25 worked great in my old phazer, but it was plenty tight with the 8 tooth drivers. Was bugger getting it all back together but worked great once it was. As for the suspension swap, anything is possible. The phazer skid with the extensions actually works pretty well, but doesn't have much for travel.
 
Premium Features