Avid Drivers
- Thread starter gerrman
- Start date
i run and know plenty of others running partial clip with no issues also have heard about hyfax problems but have'nt seen that either i guess that full clip would be better bit for the driver but its more weight i would think you'll be happy with the switch i think polaris should have changed them factory good luck
I have heard that if you are running hyperfax then you need it fully clipped. I ran mine partially clipped with no problems
Not going to run a Chamo Extreme track. Going to a Polaris series 4 159", 2.125" lug. I know many people may think this is crazy. However, I feel the snow conditions in our area being lower altitude 2500`-5500`max, sets up quicker. The bigger lug lengh tracks on the current D8`s are too much for the engine in this heavier snow.
T
Polaris runs there Bastard sigle extro with no clips.....problem is them bozo's running this single extrovert shows me the person in that department doen't have a clue so take that for what its worth. As far as running it looooose run it only loose enough to allow your track to sag just enough to put the nubs on the inside of the track even with the bottom of your hyfax when back end of sled is suspended. As far as that center driver, word out there is when the Polaris TEST TEAM???? was at Seely lake they experianced the dreaded ice build up on the center driver but did not change it for 09...WTF....Good luck
Heres my 2 cents on EXTRO's and tension... [Cut and paste from another post]
There is a difference between an "EXTROVERT" driver and a "COMBO" driver
A combo driver [eg Avid] drives from both the involute "nubs" on the inside of the track and the windows of the the track .... it does not rely on the "teeth" of the extro-portion of this "combo" unless you start to ratchet. A TRUE extrovert does not drive at all from the involute nubs on the inside of the track (eg the center driver on a dragon).
Some stuff I've learned from the diff engineers in the sled world.
Looser tracks allow the paddles to fold over easier... a part of the equation that most dont think of and is the MAIN reason why (I think) Jack Struthers says that a tight track works better than a loose one...it hooks up better, expecially in more setup conditions like on a track or hill-drags, or spring time climbing (or our average Sierra cement). He has done extensive testing with track tension.
The people with Combo drivers or extrovert drivers (again, two different drivers) seem to want to run the track real loose and feel it frees up HP...a loose track allows for distortion of the track (the track "wrinkles" and allows the paddle to lay over a bit) as it leaves the driver and makes the track more suceptable to "stabbing"
I dont look at Combo drivers (Avid) as a way to allow a track to be run looser... I look at it as a prevention of ratcheting in the high-demand situations.
I think the "combo" drivers are the best option, but run as tight as the stock drivers AND run the more slippery hyperfax as well as popping back on some idlers for spring conditions as well.
Combo drivers, IMO, are mandatory on high hp sleds... BUT they should be run at the correct, not loose, tension... similar to normal tracks/stock-drivers.
Dont mistake the effort it takes to turn your track when the sled is suspended with the actual situation in use.
Am I saying that a tight track turns as easy as a loose track, NO... but this is not anywhere near the whole story of putting the power to the ground in an efficient way.
When they are running normally, not ratcheting, the teeth of the combo are not even contacting the track or the clips and only drive from the involute portion on the inside of the track.
When run loose however, the teeth of the combo driver can "grab" the track and suck it up between the driver and the rail and can lead to stabbing.
The first of the M-series cats had poor geometry that tightended up the track when it worked thru the travel and caused all kinds of problems that was the big factory push to factory "combo" drivers and the one that gave the extros and stabbing a bad rap.
The Polaris Race sleds are taking much more punishment on the circuit than almost any cliff-dropping Mountain rider will put on thiers... all with Twin Combo Drivers, shortened rail tips and PROPER TENSION...without antistab wheels.
When a dragon does start to ratchet, with the center extro... you dont have much "tooth engagement" into the track to transfer power to the track (only 4 or 5 teeth on a non-clipped window) and, this puts a lot of load on the center of the fiberglass rods in the middle of the track... I've seen 2 dragon tracks from last year running turbos that have multiple broken fiberglass rods that go thru the rubber on the track, visually aparent. If you ratchect a dragon... you are putting a lot of stress on the track and reinforcing rods. Only the 163" models got the center driver last year, I'm curious to see the results this year as they have more wide spread use.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91239
There is a difference between an "EXTROVERT" driver and a "COMBO" driver
A combo driver [eg Avid] drives from both the involute "nubs" on the inside of the track and the windows of the the track .... it does not rely on the "teeth" of the extro-portion of this "combo" unless you start to ratchet. A TRUE extrovert does not drive at all from the involute nubs on the inside of the track (eg the center driver on a dragon).
Some stuff I've learned from the diff engineers in the sled world.
Looser tracks allow the paddles to fold over easier... a part of the equation that most dont think of and is the MAIN reason why (I think) Jack Struthers says that a tight track works better than a loose one...it hooks up better, expecially in more setup conditions like on a track or hill-drags, or spring time climbing (or our average Sierra cement). He has done extensive testing with track tension.
The people with Combo drivers or extrovert drivers (again, two different drivers) seem to want to run the track real loose and feel it frees up HP...a loose track allows for distortion of the track (the track "wrinkles" and allows the paddle to lay over a bit) as it leaves the driver and makes the track more suceptable to "stabbing"
I dont look at Combo drivers (Avid) as a way to allow a track to be run looser... I look at it as a prevention of ratcheting in the high-demand situations.
I think the "combo" drivers are the best option, but run as tight as the stock drivers AND run the more slippery hyperfax as well as popping back on some idlers for spring conditions as well.
Combo drivers, IMO, are mandatory on high hp sleds... BUT they should be run at the correct, not loose, tension... similar to normal tracks/stock-drivers.
Dont mistake the effort it takes to turn your track when the sled is suspended with the actual situation in use.
Am I saying that a tight track turns as easy as a loose track, NO... but this is not anywhere near the whole story of putting the power to the ground in an efficient way.
When they are running normally, not ratcheting, the teeth of the combo are not even contacting the track or the clips and only drive from the involute portion on the inside of the track.
When run loose however, the teeth of the combo driver can "grab" the track and suck it up between the driver and the rail and can lead to stabbing.
The first of the M-series cats had poor geometry that tightended up the track when it worked thru the travel and caused all kinds of problems that was the big factory push to factory "combo" drivers and the one that gave the extros and stabbing a bad rap.
The Polaris Race sleds are taking much more punishment on the circuit than almost any cliff-dropping Mountain rider will put on thiers... all with Twin Combo Drivers, shortened rail tips and PROPER TENSION...without antistab wheels.
When a dragon does start to ratchet, with the center extro... you dont have much "tooth engagement" into the track to transfer power to the track (only 4 or 5 teeth on a non-clipped window) and, this puts a lot of load on the center of the fiberglass rods in the middle of the track... I've seen 2 dragon tracks from last year running turbos that have multiple broken fiberglass rods that go thru the rubber on the track, visually aparent. If you ratchect a dragon... you are putting a lot of stress on the track and reinforcing rods. Only the 163" models got the center driver last year, I'm curious to see the results this year as they have more wide spread use.
http://www.snowest.com/forum/showthread.php?t=91239
Last edited:
I
Good info. Thx
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