I'd suspect after bolting these to the case and head things stay a little more square. :face-icon-small-dis
Nope they were measured by themselves,then with head and top half of case bolted on,cold and at operating temp. This is not my first rodeo:nod: the only way to get them round at temp is to final hone them with top and bottom deck plates installed and hot hone them at tempature just like we do with all out pro level race engines. The cylinder is a horrible design,reminds me of first year chevy bowtie blocks, drove us crazy, near impossible to get good ring seal until they redesigned the webing and water jackets. I ran my race shop for over 25 years and the more I dive into this series of engine the more disgusted I get. :face-icon-small-fro
Don't mean to rant but its just that I get really pi$$ed at polaris for knowing what the problems are and just sticking one bandaid after another on the problem hoping it will just go away. Another issue I'm not going to even start is the crappy rod/stroke ratio these have causing side loading on the skirt and heat buildup...arghhhhhh
All in All I would say the best bet if you want to go this far is to use the 2010 cylinder,the 2010 case,then use "the fix" longer skirt piston and spacer to help support the piston. And take your brand new 2010 cylinder have it stripped and re-niked to the proper clearance of .006 after measuring the pistons you are going to use. Now you can't go any tighter as it may stick due to the distortion of the cylinder during temp changes.(think 1st single ring piston problems) And if you did get the cylinder to be round at temp, its now distorted when cold so you still can't run the piston any tighter.
Or the best cure is to do a carls 860 using the 2 separate jugs and pistons that they custom make...there is a very good reason they went to the effort to custom cast 2 separate jugs and chuck the monoblock in the trash. BUT this is one expensive option.