ok... got my last bid sent out! I'm headed out with a hammer & a crescent wrench to get this thing figured out!
Oh, and a flathead screwdriver.
Oh, and a flathead screwdriver.
Losing RPM... and I want it back!
- Thread starter backcountryislife
- Start date
ok... got my last bid sent out! I'm headed out with a hammer & a crescent wrench to get this thing figured out!
Working on a Doo requires beer also.:beer;
Check all the little things....the chain and track tension...too tight on the chain or too loose or tight on the track can drop RPM.
I would caution against anything but a Doo belt....-391 or -377 only! I know some guys like them (aftermarket belts) because they are less money but I have also seen very extensive damage to chassis and engine cause directly by (IMO) some of those fancy new belts and the manner in which they fail.
You might even take your sled to the dealer and have them throw it on the BUDS to be sure it's showing full throttle opening.....I'm not privvy to all the other info shown on BUDS, but make sure everything is in spec. to be sure your not chasing your tail.
I would caution against anything but a Doo belt....-391 or -377 only! I know some guys like them (aftermarket belts) because they are less money but I have also seen very extensive damage to chassis and engine cause directly by (IMO) some of those fancy new belts and the manner in which they fail.
You might even take your sled to the dealer and have them throw it on the BUDS to be sure it's showing full throttle opening.....I'm not privvy to all the other info shown on BUDS, but make sure everything is in spec. to be sure your not chasing your tail.
ok... that reminds me of something I've been meaning to ask... A buddy said it was pretty normal, but he was talking about ice in the tunnel.
when i go downhill with the brakes on lightly or just coasting, I can hear the track hitting the tunnel. I've tightened it up since I got it, but perhaps under power, the track is hitting the tunnel, essentially hitting the brakes somewhat?
I'd say it's normal tension for a cat, but perhaps this is too loose for a doo?
when i go downhill with the brakes on lightly or just coasting, I can hear the track hitting the tunnel. I've tightened it up since I got it, but perhaps under power, the track is hitting the tunnel, essentially hitting the brakes somewhat?
I'd say it's normal tension for a cat, but perhaps this is too loose for a doo?
RPM
Check Crank run out?
Check Crank run out?
S
yeah the sliding half is taper fit, so once you torque it on it won't come off like the tra IIIs... but the governor cup is only held on by the main bolt.. take off the bolt and the governor cup should slide off giving you access to your pins / rollers / weights / ramps
i've never tried this . just speculating ..
T
It's the governor cup that's got the taper in it.Thats why you can remove the TRA III's it's splindes NOT tapered.The updated ''sliding half'' for a 06 clutch is the same as a the new tapered clutch.Just did one for mountainhighs son.Came with sping cup and all the pins and bolt to hold the arms in.
I bought the forks when I first got my Rev in 05 and tried them a couple times,haven't used them in years(PIA) once you pull the clutch apart a few times it's easier without them.
I have an Ultimax belt for a spare(free from a friend) and I automaticaly loose 200RPM when I use it.
Bump up your clickers one notch to compensate for the increased grip from the better belt.
A belt that decreases rpm isn't something to be looked upon negatively, it's because it simply has less slippage than a stock belt. In an N/A situation that's a good thing, but they suck when dealing with boost as they don't allow boost to spool as fast.
When folks first started running these on cats they didn't like them either because of the drop, but when our new belts came out that had a better compound & people no longer needed to clutch for the rpm drop, they began to embrace them.
Me... I've got a $180 belt that lasted me 250 miles... I'll go with the belt I can send back for $10 & get a new one when that happens.
T
Well did you get your clutch cleaned?Was the arms sticky? cheers
I think a lot of the guys in the cat section are just frustrated right now, so things get out of hand over there way too often... I feel for them, they must not have your brace on their sleds:face-icon-small-blu
After another season of testing we have found the best thing that fixes all the problems with the proclimb is the XM!
Funny how my proclimb stopped having problems once I picked up my XM
Haha ! "Now that's funny right there"!!
Well... tried & tried with the hammer, but couldn't get the clutch off... weird.
Got it all cleaned, scotch-brited the clutch faces, cleaned the belt, and today I was only seeing 100 rpm drop... better.
Had Abby demo a 154 XM today though... yep, figured out how to fix her proclimb as well oddly enough too:face-icon-small-sho
In one day on a sled with a riser that's 5 stories too high for her she's doing things she can't on the proclimb. I can't wait to put a 2" riser on it for her, set up the suspension more, and see how she does. Looks kinda qwear having two of the same sled on the sled deck aside from track length though... gotta do something about that.
Though... I did my best to make my sled a bit more "unique" about a week after I got it!!!
Got it all cleaned, scotch-brited the clutch faces, cleaned the belt, and today I was only seeing 100 rpm drop... better.
Had Abby demo a 154 XM today though... yep, figured out how to fix her proclimb as well oddly enough too:face-icon-small-sho
In one day on a sled with a riser that's 5 stories too high for her she's doing things she can't on the proclimb. I can't wait to put a 2" riser on it for her, set up the suspension more, and see how she does. Looks kinda qwear having two of the same sled on the sled deck aside from track length though... gotta do something about that.
Though... I did my best to make my sled a bit more "unique" about a week after I got it!!!
S
custom air vents.LOL
"Vent" He's only did one side!
G
Just a thought BCL.
Have you tried a P85 and a Team yet?
Have you tried a P85 and a Team yet?
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S
have your dealer test your fuel pressure. The RPM fade issue you are seeing isn't from clutching .. I battled with it for some time. opened up my clutches, rebuilt, cleaned, etc .. didn't help!
I ended up with a new fuel pump due to my issues and no more rpm fade .. Could've been the RB clutching, but either way I'm a happy happy camper
I'm willing to bet the fuel pumps on these things get lazy after a while, leaning out the sled at full pull which leads to hotter exhaust, which leads to the ECU pulling timing on long pulls and then the RPM fade.. it just gets worse and worse and one day your sled will just die
anyway .. no need for P85 and team .. stick a RB clutch kit in and make sure your engine / fuel systems are up to spec. I was getting 90 km/hr track speeds today climbing steep steep stuff.. no rpm fade, 7900 rock solid and pulls hard!
I ended up with a new fuel pump due to my issues and no more rpm fade .. Could've been the RB clutching, but either way I'm a happy happy camper
I'm willing to bet the fuel pumps on these things get lazy after a while, leaning out the sled at full pull which leads to hotter exhaust, which leads to the ECU pulling timing on long pulls and then the RPM fade.. it just gets worse and worse and one day your sled will just die
anyway .. no need for P85 and team .. stick a RB clutch kit in and make sure your engine / fuel systems are up to spec. I was getting 90 km/hr track speeds today climbing steep steep stuff.. no rpm fade, 7900 rock solid and pulls hard!
BCIL, welcome to life with the TRA. Because this is still a closed face design, you have to maintain it more agressively than an open faced clutch imo. We blew ours out with compressed air after every ride or every 100 or so miles. You will be surprised at the amount of belt dust etc that accumulates in the cavities. With belts being kevlar now, particles left in there will grind away at all your moving parts in the cavities and wear them out. Mine usually lasted 700 to 900 miles of heat soaked running before I had to replace bushings, rollers, etc. With the new pieces installed, rpm would return to normal for another 700 to 900 miles of our use. Clicker adjustment, as you have already found out, does not address the issue. Better get her opened up and see what needs to be new. You obviously run hard over distance, because, imo, those that do will experience these issues with the TRA. :beer;
