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Love the motor hate the ride?

cateye5312

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Mar 28, 2009
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That's a bunch of BS.
Why should you have to spend more on
revalving your shocks or even change
springs
Oooooo !!!! They run so much better after setup.
So why doesn't polaris do at the factory.
I guess that should be up to your good dealers
to set it up for your weight and not have
to cough up even more money. Polaris should have
this figured this out by now.
All it should need is minor adjustment .

Wow! I guess I didn't realize every single rider came stamped from the factory at the exact same height, weight, and riding style! Good grief Polaris! You should have known this! This poor man might have to adjust his suspension to his own preferences! Shame on you Poo!! Evidently some other brand knows this!!
 
J

Jaynelson

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Nov 26, 2007
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That's a bunch of BS.
Why should you have to spend more on
revalving your shocks or even change
springs
There is not a suspension tuner on the planet who would think the same spring that works well for a 150lb rider would work for a 250lb rider. Sledders are the only guys who would feel the need to fight this....anything else - dirtbikes, mountain bikes, etc...it's just the way it is with a coil over suspension.
 
J

Jaynelson

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The front feels lik it is going fall off in the bumps, I think it is way too stiff. The rear feels to stiff as well but seems to perform better with more speed. I have the front track shock fairly soft and rear track shock adjusted for sag, so I stiffened it quite a bit. I left the fronts at dealer setting.
The fastest way to get one of these to ride terribly is to try to crank the spring enough to eliminate all rear sag. You need to go by the specs in the manual for weight...
 

Angermangement890

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Set up is key, and the Axys rides completely different than my previous PRO. I find myself consistently overriding it, I need to tone it down and realize its not my PRO. I do agree the factory needs to do a better job on intial calibration. I think they are forgetting that the 180lb guy brings 20-30 lbs of surrvival gear with him (riding gear, avy bags, shovels etc). And for us larger riders only so much can be tuned out with the stock set ups without buying optional springs. I think the single biggest performance modification a guy can make in terms of handling is better shocks. They will open your eyes if you ride a set.

For me choosing to revalve/spring the factory shocks hits a point of diminishing returns. A full valving package on the stock shocks with springs is going to set a guy back $500-800, the problem as I see it is that the money is gone and you have something that works better, but still has compromises left in it. And once the money is gone, its not coming back. When you spend $500 on your Walker shocks, it doesn't suddenly make them worth $1000 vs $500 for a stock set because the average guy just see's a Walker shock.

On the other hand the aftermartket shock packages offer much more value than the revalves can. They have higher end parts with tighter tolerances, the ability to taylor the ride to an individual vs a weight range. They have fewer compromises in them that you are trying to work around. Because of that they have vast ride quality and performance improvements over the factory stuff.

I would recommend looking at the available aftermarket shock options. a full set of good shocks that are basic can be had for around $1750 retail. Yes, that is more than a revalve, but you also still have your stock shocks to put back on the sled when your ready to move on or sell them to defray your cost. If a guy sells all 4 of the stock shocks for $800, he has cut his investment significantly. I personally hang onto my stock shocks and reinstall them when I sell the sled, gives me an edge in the used market, because my sled has "new" stock shocks...:face-icon-small-hap
 

mountainhorse

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The front track shock... yes.

The rear track shock...no.

To be precise... you can 'fit' them both to the skid on your AXYS-Mtn...but the rear track shock will be too long... and if you internally shim that extra length... the shock will be too long when compressed...so 'fitting' and 'functioning correctly' are, most often, not the same thing.


.
 
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RMK935VA

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Jan 14, 2008
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What's your rider weight?

I weigh 220 without clothing. I figure that I am around 240geared up. The 230 spring is working well for me. If I was younger and more aggressive (hucking and such things), I would probably have put the 250 spring on the sled. Carl's revalve works so well that I did not even consider other shocks. I rode it as they set it up. I did add about 4 turns of preload on the front shocks since they felt a little too soft after a couple of rides to figure the sled out. Everything is good now. If I were going to get other shocks, I would have put Zero Pros on it. The Carl's revalve uses Fox internals so they end up being much like a Zero Pro.
 

richracer1

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I know the Axys skid is a little more evolved than the Pro-Ride skid, but here's my take.

On my '14 Pro 163", I got a set Raptor replacement shocks for the skid. They helped a lot, but it still felt like a softer sprung pogo stick in the whoops. I decided to pull the KMOD turn key skid out of my '09 777 RMK 155, bought new rails from Kevin to fit it to my 163. This skid is night and day difference in handling from the stock skid. They were 2 of us with 163 Pro-RMKs using the KMOD skid and a few other with stock skids. They could NOT keep up with us hauling butt down a whooped up trail. If you can afford it, get the KMOD turn key skid. Think of it as an investment. You can always pull it out of your current skid and install it in a new sled. Depending on the sled manufacturer, it may need new rails, but some of them only need the upper crossbars and some spacers to put it in another brand of sled. Kevin also offers upgrades to the base kit, like Ti arms & springs, the K-Motion, black or natural rails.

Here's the tricked out Kmod skid on my Axys.


Yes those are carbon fiber rails and yes it was expensive.
 
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Norway

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I know the Axys skid is a little more evolved than the Pro-Ride skid, but here's my take.

On my '14 Pro 163", I got a set Raptor replacement shocks for the skid. They helped a lot, but it still felt like a softer sprung pogo stick in the whoops. I decided to pull the KMOD turn key skid out of my '09 777 RMK 155, bought new rails from Kevin to fit it to my 163. This skid is night and day difference in handling from the stock skid. They were 2 of us with 163 Pro-RMKs using the KMOD skid and a few other with stock skids. They could NOT keep up with us hauling butt down a whooped up trail. If you can afford it, get the KMOD turn key skid. Think of it as an investment. You can always pull it out of your current skid and install it in a new sled. Depending on the sled manufacturer, it may need new rails, but some of them only need the upper crossbars and some spacers to put it in another brand of sled. Kevin also offers upgrades to the base kit, like Ti arms & springs, the K-Motion, black or natural rails.

Here's the tricked out Kmod skid on my Axys.


Yes those are carbon fiber rails and yes it was expensive.

I could get behind this if we talk about keeping/selling aftermarket skid and putting stock (unused?) shocks back in when selling the sled.

But a coupled skid complete with shocks is a whole different ballgame IMO. Price is a lot higher than a set of shocks unless you go Raptor/Elka. Usually, you can sell used aftermarket parts at 1/2 price. $2500 skid would loose you $1250, while a set of Raptors for the rear is $1090.

It does work good on whooped trails, but this is a deep snow machine and I feel that point is not fair.
Yes; throw lots of money at it and you can have best of both worlds, or close enough, but still. A coupled skid will also change how it works in the woods vs. going straight up.

I'd say the previous posts about adjustment, revalve or better shocks answers this question better. Then those who will spare no expense can of course go all the way.

Just my opinion of course.:juggle:
 

Teth-Air

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The axys is super sensitive to spring adjustment. If you run the front skid shock too tight it rides like crap. The manual does tell you how to adjust the shocks but does not do a good job to tell you how the adjustments effect each other. Adjust the shocks for steering weight and rider weight. Learn how one effects the other. It is nothing like a Doo if that's where you gained your experience.
 

Wheel House Motorsports

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The fastest way to get one of these to ride terribly is to try to crank the spring enough to eliminate all rear sag. You need to go by the specs in the manual for weight...
The funny thing is I cant stand running them any other way. Im 160# and run the front shocks maxed out and rear track shock WAY UP and still considering going to the heavier RTS spring to help make it not BLOW through the stroke when going through small ravines, etc. Its definitely a little harsh on the trail but makes it way easier to work around when your hard on one edes working through the trees. Keeps the sled up out of the snow more.
 
J

Jaynelson

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Rode one this weekend with the heavier rear spring and hated it....takes away too much of the fun factor on these sleds. Worked against me in the trees (which were a lot yesterday lol). The only place it was an advantage was climbing super steep stuff. I weigh 205 in gym clothes, and these were the standard shocks not clickers. Even with the heavy spring I would bottom out on half the stuff I bottom the factory spring on anyways...so I think the only way to eliminate that would be to go with a more techy shock like an EVOL.
 

Sheetmetalfab

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Love the motor hate the ride

The funny thing is I cant stand running them any other way. Im 160# and run the front shocks maxed out and rear track shock WAY UP and still considering going to the heavier RTS spring to help make it not BLOW through the stroke when going through small ravines, etc. Its definitely a little harsh on the trail but makes it way easier to work around when your hard on one edes working through the trees. Keeps the sled up out of the snow more.



Try the progressive stainless spring from RCS
Its the best thing to happen to coil over rear skids.

Soft in the chatter, nearly impossible to bottom, high ride height.
Controls wheelie (but still will with a step back)
I'm 220 without gear.
Stock would never quit wheeling over backwards. (In the steep)


c89e3d217349e16307420ea247e19631.jpg
 
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Oinakka

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The front track shock... yes.

The rear track shock...no.

To be precise... you can 'fit' them both to the skid on your AXYS-Mtn...but the rear track shock will be too long... and if you internally shim that extra length... the shock will be too long when compressed...so 'fitting' and 'functioning correctly' are, most often, not the same thing.


.

Or the other way around, the rear shock from the proride is shorter. You can make it work, but need to modify the brackets. Or the eyelet on the shock itself.
 

Latitude 62

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I too hated my Axys ride. I have the clicker shocks, adjusted everything several times and did not improve enough for my liking. I put on triple rate springs from Raptor (the heavy set) and my problems were solved!!! I love the ride and control now. It is a different sled! My buds all rode mine and upgraded their sleds pronto.Pretty low cost solution ($280) imo.
 
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S

SWITCHMAN

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Apr 25, 2012
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I weigh 220 without clothing. I figure that I am around 240geared up. The 230 spring is working well for me. If I was younger and more aggressive (hucking and such things), I would probably have put the 250 spring on the sled. Carl's revalve works so well that I did not even consider other shocks. I rode it as they set it up. I did add about 4 turns of preload on the front shocks since they felt a little too soft after a couple of rides to figure the sled out. Everything is good now. If I were going to get other shocks, I would have put Zero Pros on it. The Carl's revalve uses Fox internals so they end up being much like a Zero Pro.

Has anyone tried the Carls revalve with a set of aftermarket springs like Raptor TRS (triple rate springs) ??
 
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