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Clutching - Clutching - MAINTENANCE (primary and ramps)

Dynamo^Joe

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Nov 26, 2007
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Thunder Bay, ont
www.iBackshift.com
Hi. The last 2 weeks i've fielded this comment / and or question enough times in emails for kits and/ or general maintenance, I just gotta make a post - "What to do when my ramp has an edge that can cut paper"

heh...well, you'll have to fix by replacing some wear parts!

Tony writes) Existing ramps and rollers show sign of wear, need new so i am upgrading with your clutch kit.
Joe writes) do the ramps have a knife-edge on them?

Ramps at idle engine speed or above idle
If there is clearance between the torque button on the governor cup and the sliding sheave button galley, then at idle, yes, the clutch will rattle a bit.

The start of the ramps can wear a flat spot where the roller sits at engagement.
Solution - replace the springs underneath the torque buttons (if there are springs) and-or torque buttons too (and o-rings)

Every time there is a piston pulse at idle, the sliding sheave displaces back and forth, clockwise motion, counterclockwise because of the clearance and fit (tight fit vs. loose fit) while the engine itself is running counterclockwise.

When you bring the engine up past idle rpms, the force of the pulse lessens amplitude (because of less time for back and forth displacement)

With excessive clearance, the sliding sheave “rattles” as it is displacing back and forth at-idle because of power pulses from each piston going “bang” under fire.

Action on Ramps at full throttle while clutch is shifting
When you engage the clutch then the governor cup is thrusting on the 3 forward buttons.
When there is engine braking the gov cup thrusts on the 3 back buttons.
Excessive clearance can cause a knife-edge on the ramps all the way down its profile.

“Whole ramp reshaped...” If the clutch eventually follows this clearance growing some, what will happen is the thrust side of the ramp will start to “gall”. It looks and feels like the ramp is starting to grow a knife-edge. The roller will be pull the metal of the ramp over (smear) every time you are at full throttle in a good pull. The “smearing” is from the lack of parallel between the sliding sheave and the governor cup.

TRA 7 primary clutch

Since 2007 there have been some updates on clutch wear parts for the summits.
The maintenance kit below gives the latest/greatest wear parts. Once installed they take about a ½ tank of petrol of driving to “break in” and start to perform with consistency.

Maintenance kit for drive pulley (buy from local skidoo dealer)
1 spring cover assy, 3 rollers, 1 bushing, 6 slider shoes and o-rings, 1 circlip, 3 cotter pins & lever axles

2008~10.5, 800PT & Etec
BRP#415129627

2011 ~ newer 800R & Etec
BRP# 415129626

Joey
 

winter brew

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Nov 26, 2007
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LakeTapps, Wa.
Joe, one other thing I have found that seems to be adding to the "ramp wear" issue is the gap between the steel center and aluminum casting of the governor cup. When new, they are tight or almost zero gap. Look at most clutches with many miles and this gap grows. I have seen over .060" gap! The only connection between them is rubber! When this exists, everything else can be new or in spec and the ramps and often rollers will wear rapidly. Governor cups are expensive $$!
I would love to hear suggestions of what can be done to address this issue. My only though is to replace the gov. cup assembly but most people can't or won't spend that kind of $$.
I would assume the governor cup is sort of "wobbling" or resonating at certain RPM or under certain loads....causing accelerated wear on many parts, especially the ramp/roller interface.
 
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