RMK 800 Mod Help!!!

As for the drop and roll. Not much cost, just time. Couple holesaws, a good drill, and some hand tools.

Another way to go with the steering post is get a "tison/ftx style" pyramid hoop and a steering post from them as well with the billet supports what this does is raise the center up the post so there is less flex on the steering post itself. I personally wouldn't do the rod down the post because then you create a weak spot down where the post bends by the motor and cause it to break there also speaking from experience !!

do it

the 151 will make the sled extremely easier to ride, the 800 has too much torque for the measely 144 or what ever you are running now. Gear it down, and never look back. You will wonder why they even made them in 144 versions.

RTI on here had some pyramid style hoops, check the swap meet. Adding the 151-159 track will make it a much better sled. Unless you find a big wheel kit for cheap, I would not really spend the money on it. This is a 10 year old sled/chassis style, I would not be dumping alot of money into it.

www.ftxmotorsports.com
1-253-848-0908

WPS sells skid extensions that are made for 8" wheels. This is the route I am going to go this summer. Combo drivers and a 151 from a 136 extra 10

I have an 01 800 that goes great. I got some SLP pipes 2nd hand and I couldn't believe the difference, went from trailing my dads 900 to leaving him behind. Messed with the clutching and ended up back with the stock weights. Koso gauges.

Just gut the airbox and the cut the cone on the top so the opening is as big as possible (its just as good as an slp top). I took EVERYTHING off the hood and mounted the tach on the bars(had a headlight cover for a small windshield just for looks but break it everytime I flip it over backwards). Taller moved forward chromoly steerer tube is super solid with taller bars and a riser. With everything off the hood including hinges it is real easy to ditch it when it is spring conditions. I put an angle piece of abs pipe with screen over it on the hole in the hood over the airbox to keep the snow out. Lightweight seat is much firmer and makes the stock one look like its made of lead. I got rid of the cowling on the exhaust side to help with cooling the pipes. I would advise keeping the clutch side on though, took it all off and snow kept getting in on the clutch. I wouldn't bother porting the track, saves about 1-2lbs and you won't be able to waterskip if you ever need to. Might shed a little extra snow but I don't think it's worth it.

Not a real looker but keeps up with the new xp's in the deep and can beat them in the spring. Way snappier and faster on the flat than any new sleds too.

Mine is a 151 and rode with a 144 when mine was stock and there was a pretty big difference. I have a newer ski doo track now, bought it second hand in new condition for real cheap. More aggressive track also made a noticeable difference. First one ripped in half when the skid stabbed through it. Plastic nub fell off of the front of the rail (that one hurt).

I have a 2001 800, snow checked. I now have a 159 inch track, slp single, gutted air box, stiffiend steering post(also broke mine), Lexine hood, boss seat, big wheel kit. I am 6' 5'' 250 lbs so I put a 6 inch handle bar extension on mine. i have done a lot of clutch work on mine and there arnt any stock sleds on the hill that can keep up.
The stock hood was taken off when the sled had around 300 miles on it. I would guess the sled has around 6,000 miles now and still pulls 156 lbs in each cylinder. Been a great sled.

I love my snowcheck pipe and can and slp airbox make it roar, i have a home made mesh hood, comparable difference to my other with a oem hood, pipe, can riser, airbox, and i can ride all day and not have to worry about blowing another motor
I went back to a stock airbox with my mesh hood, i wouldn't want to run filters, scared of snow melting and getting sucked into the motor.