TKI Belt Drive and Mountain Cat Drop Chaincase Install Questions

Frostbite · Nov 25, 2016

I am starting the install of the TKI belt drive kit on my 2015 Proclimb. To add a twist, I am also doing the Dropped Mountain Cat chain case at the same time. There's not a whole lot of pictures with the TKI Mountain Cat dropped chain case instructions. I'm sure someone has done this already and I have a few questions.

1. Since I have the a 2017 Mountain Cat chain case to use with the kit, I am fairly certain I don't need to remove the upper bearing from the 2015 chain case I am removing. I am guessing I need to remove the upper bearing from the 2017 chain case and replace it with the sealed one that comes with the kit, right? If so, will I need to heat the chain case to remove the bearing from the 2017 chain case?

2. Since I have a 2015, are there any tips on drilling and tapping the jack shaft? I have read the horror stories.

3. The pictures for trimming the brake side of the tunnel are a bit confusing to me. The template that is placed 1 7/16" behind the forward brake mount bolt hole say "it's a double layer tunnel so only the outer layer needs to be trimmed" Then it says" The outer piece that was trimmed now needs to be flattened and trimmed so it can be used as an extra support and spacer." I can't tell from the picture if both layers are to be cut out completely in the shape of the template and just the outer metal piece added back and sandwiched in as a spacer? If just the outer layer of skin is is to be cut, how do I remove the outer skin while leaving the inner one intact?

4. I didn't do the oil delete, so how does one get the air bubbles out of the oil line after I get everything hooked up?

I keep looking for a video or a step by step Instruction for the job. I will keep looking. If you have any tips or answers to my questions so far, please let me know.

Chewy22 · Nov 25, 2016

1. Yes and yes!

2. Slow and steady? No experience with a 15 jackshaft.

3. You only cut the outer layer. It's pretty tricky cutting the top line, that is were both layers are touching together. An alternative not cutting the top line. Just cut the bottom and two sides then push in. I used a dremel with right angle adaptor. I did cut the piece completely out and was real careful with the top line. Someone else told me about not cutting the top line.

Frostbite · Nov 25, 2016

Thanks Chewy!

I see the brake side template is riveted on the inside of the tunnel. The templates are stainless steel, wouldn't the chain case side be the same?

What year was your sled Chewy? Did you have to trim your rail tips?

I don't understand why we even cutout the long vertical dual layer piece on the brake side if we put it back in the hole as a spacer?

scratley · Nov 25, 2016

You have to trim the long piece as well, the reason it has to come out is because it is tapered not flat, it will hit the caliper if not flattened. Take your time and just cut what is needed, think I trimmed it 10 or so times before it fit perfect, dremmel works best, think I went through a dozen Zip disks.

mja · Nov 26, 2016

Call TKI and get a replacement shaft for $60. Well worth the time and no headache.

Frostbite · Nov 26, 2016

I'm still perplexed. Do I cut through both layers near the caliper and then lay the removed outer tunnel skin back into the hole and rivet it to the stainless steel template inside the tunnel like this?

Frostbite · Nov 26, 2016

You can see the double skin layer in this picture. Maybe I don't cut through both, maybe just remove the outer layer? I still don't quite get why I would cut it out and then lay it back in the same place I just removed it from?

Frostbite · Nov 26, 2016

I still am wondering if the stainless steel chain case template is supposed to be left installed inside the tunnel like the one on the brake caliper side of the tunnel. That makes sense to me.........but with the raised dimples inside the tunnel, maybe it goes on the outside?

rusty rider · Nov 26, 2016

I left the template on the inside of the tunnel when I did mine, its on a 16'. I just thought it would help strengthen it up more. I talked with tom about it before hand, he recommended to do so too.

scratley · Nov 26, 2016

Frostbite said:
I'm still perplexed. Do I cut through both layers near the caliper and then lay the removed outer tunnel skin back into the hole and rivet it to the stainless steel template inside the tunnel like this?

The holes in the template are the only ones that will go through both. The next pic of the flattened out piece is only the outer piece of the tunnel.

scratley · Nov 26, 2016

Frostbite said:
I'm still perplexed. Do I cut through both layers near the caliper and then lay the removed outer tunnel skin back into the hole and rivet it to the stainless steel template inside the tunnel like this?[/QUOT

This pic is of just the outer skin, do not cut all the way through, once you get the outer skin cut you will see the gap between the two, flatten out and form fit to inside skin

Frostbite · Nov 26, 2016

Winner...Winner Chicken Dinner.

Scratley you got it. This is why you just cut the outer layer "once you get the outer skin cut you will see the gap between the two, flatten out and form fit to inside skin.

Who knew there was a gap between the two layers. No it makes sense to me!

Thank you

Frostbite · Nov 26, 2016

Good news! I called and spoke with Tom today and he said there is a new set of instructions on how to install his mountain cat kit. It's much more explanatory and makes much more sense. Here's a copy of the new instructions.

Chewy22 · Nov 26, 2016

Frostbite said:
Good news! I called and spoke with Tom today and he said there is a new set of instructions on how to install his mountain cat kit. It's much more explanatory and makes much more sense. Here's a copy of the new instructions.

Good deal Frost.

d1100t · Nov 27, 2016

Tki kit

Frostbite said:
Good news! I called and spoke with Tom today and he said there is a new set of instructions on how to install his mountain cat kit. It's much more explanatory and makes much more sense. Here's a copy of the new instructions.

Thanks
I'll be doing this to my 2016. Those pics and directions will help a lot.
Powder coating or painting the new parts will look nice.
The green chain case pic that's in the directions looks good.
My sleds black. I think I'll paint or powder coat everything black.

MTN_VIPER · Nov 27, 2016

When doing this mod, do you have to drop the front arm mounting in the tunnel as well?

Frostbite · Nov 27, 2016

MNT-Viper, I am in the middle of the mod and I don't believe you do.

I have the brake side done now and tomorrow I will do the chain case side and start putting stuff back together. It's a lot of work but, I'm sure it will be worth it.

I pulled my rear skid out today and I was going to remove the plastic caps on my rails but, they are already the same distance forward as my anti stab kit. Any advice would be appreciated.

Chewy22 · Nov 27, 2016

The caps need to be trimmed down. The wheels clear fine.

Frostbite · Nov 27, 2016

Like this?

scratley · Nov 27, 2016

Chewy22 said:
The caps need to be trimmed down. The wheels clear fine.

What hole are you in for the front arm? I have around 2'' on my Kmod, mounting bottom and back. Kmod doesn't even come with the caps though. With the 7 tooth last yr the bearings in my anti-stab gave out. Upgraded this yr from bdx setup to ice age anti-stab, better quality. I feel the 8 tooth won't put the stress on them though like the 7's

TKI Belt Drive and Mountain Cat Drop Chaincase Install Questions

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