Yep... that blow hole moves some serious air!!
The new stock mufflers are pretty compact... and quiet... I like quiet.
The new stock mufflers are pretty compact... and quiet... I like quiet.
VENTING AND THE PRO-RIDE.... MY TAKE ON IT.
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
A
"Blow-Hole"? WTH is that?
A
hey
I installed four vents on my clutch side, and three on the exhaust side and it lowered the the underhood temps a lot. If my buddies exact sled with no venting rode with me, you could barely touch his clutches, and you could put your hand right on mine. I was actually surprised at the difference in the belt temps too.
I installed four vents on my clutch side, and three on the exhaust side and it lowered the the underhood temps a lot. If my buddies exact sled with no venting rode with me, you could barely touch his clutches, and you could put your hand right on mine. I was actually surprised at the difference in the belt temps too.
Link to "BlowHole" http://www.snowestonline.com/forum/showthread.php?t=307299
JMO but I like the fact you cut one piece of the body and that it is active as soon as the machine is running, unless you install a switch.
JMO but I like the fact you cut one piece of the body and that it is active as soon as the machine is running, unless you install a switch.
I went to the original post and read it. Very well said and put Mountainhorse. I only wish I could post there. I just want to weigh in on my opinion of engine compartment and clutch heat. Again this is in my opinion and thinking along the lines of theory.
Venting: Under hood heat is inevitable and it is not a bad thing unless it is excessive. You can have things over vented. The engine and related components need some heat to work properly and be efficient. I have seen many sleds that are so vented it blows me away how the owners believe it is doing them good. Some heat needs to be retained. IMO Side panel vents really do no good until the sled is stopped and the heat will then radiate out through them. When the machine is moving the side panel vents have the outside air passing by them at a fast rate of speed and snow covering them in the deep essentially causing them to be closed, flowing no air. Example: think of a liquid cooled engine with a air cooled heat exchanger (Automotive Radiator) if it sat there with no air moving through it, it does no good, hence that is why a fan is mounted near it to move the air through it. IMO front, rear, and upper vents are the only vents that are going to do any good while the sled is in action as air will be moving from front to back and the heat will always rise.
Clutch Heat: IMO excessive clutch heat is due to improper clutching and or gearing for the type of riding style and or terrain the machine is being used for. If the clutching and gearing are correct than there will be little slippage to create added heat. There will always be a little slippage during shift transitions and takeoff. If the clutching and gearing are correct for your riding style and terrain, excessive temps should not happen. This is also being said with the clutches in good condition. Don't forget about the heat transfer that happens from the crankshaft to the primary clutch, to the belt, and then to the secondary clutch. That is where a lot of the clutch heat comes from, not just the ambient air temp in the engine compartment or improper clutch/gearing setup.
Venting: Under hood heat is inevitable and it is not a bad thing unless it is excessive. You can have things over vented. The engine and related components need some heat to work properly and be efficient. I have seen many sleds that are so vented it blows me away how the owners believe it is doing them good. Some heat needs to be retained. IMO Side panel vents really do no good until the sled is stopped and the heat will then radiate out through them. When the machine is moving the side panel vents have the outside air passing by them at a fast rate of speed and snow covering them in the deep essentially causing them to be closed, flowing no air. Example: think of a liquid cooled engine with a air cooled heat exchanger (Automotive Radiator) if it sat there with no air moving through it, it does no good, hence that is why a fan is mounted near it to move the air through it. IMO front, rear, and upper vents are the only vents that are going to do any good while the sled is in action as air will be moving from front to back and the heat will always rise.
Clutch Heat: IMO excessive clutch heat is due to improper clutching and or gearing for the type of riding style and or terrain the machine is being used for. If the clutching and gearing are correct than there will be little slippage to create added heat. There will always be a little slippage during shift transitions and takeoff. If the clutching and gearing are correct for your riding style and terrain, excessive temps should not happen. This is also being said with the clutches in good condition. Don't forget about the heat transfer that happens from the crankshaft to the primary clutch, to the belt, and then to the secondary clutch. That is where a lot of the clutch heat comes from, not just the ambient air temp in the engine compartment or improper clutch/gearing setup.
Very good common sense post, I,d like to add that the pro motor mounts wear loose rapidly and add to clutch heat, I,m on my third set on my '11 and second on my '13.
Good to read from the first page if you are new to this one.
Especially in light of the QD belt heating.
Especially in light of the QD belt heating.
W
Great read MH, I believe in venting, my IQ runs much cooler with what I have done. Since I bought the 14 Rmk 800 I'm not concerned about the QD belt but still want to remove some heat from the clutches. What I did was remove the tool pouch they put right over the vents behind the secondary, who thought that one up I can't imagine, LOL! I know that's not a lot but plan on adding the small vents in the hood right below & behind the head light to see how this will work.
D
Last year on my 13 I covered the hood and side panel vents with slp prefilter material, it held way too much heat. The hood was noticeably hot to the touch at times from the oven inside.
This year I added a MTNTK blowhole, and I will put up with pine needles and willows in my bellypan to keep the hood vents open and stock.
This year I added a MTNTK blowhole, and I will put up with pine needles and willows in my bellypan to keep the hood vents open and stock.
If you put the Pre-Filter over the vents...only... I'd expect it to overheat as well.
More area needs to be opened up.
The BlowHole will do you well. (Even if you leave on the SLP material)
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More area needs to be opened up.
The BlowHole will do you well. (Even if you leave on the SLP material)
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D
Thanks MH, I'm very excited about the blowhole, I really prefer not to cut up my panels for venting anymore, been through all that with minimal gains on my IQ RMK.
Now let it snow!
Now let it snow!
No one has discussed the Gill Vents yet, I'd be interested to hear people take on them.
As they are not just "flat vents" and channel air in one direction, it would seem that they would take the negative air pressure in the engine compartment and "duct" it out.
Any thoughts?
As they are not just "flat vents" and channel air in one direction, it would seem that they would take the negative air pressure in the engine compartment and "duct" it out.
Any thoughts?
G
I cut out the top of the hood (heat rises in my passive venting theory) above the light and under the windshield and covered the cut-out with contact cemented Frog skin material.
Can't be seen but can be felt (hot air flows out in use).
Other than that I have needed nothing in added venting (other than making the stock side vents flow better by creative bending and trimming, they are formed more for looks than function).
You have to be aware of the fact that snow covered holes flow nothing. So during the early wet heavy snow and later in the spring snow, I apply a quick wipe and buff of the best (every Pro deserves the best lol) carnuba wax every ride (takes 30 to 40 secs).
A fresh buff lasts most of a ride and lets the snow slide off every bunny hop.
The stock passive venting on the Pro (especially including the "hole" at the back of the belly pan) is the best to date for me from the factory. The clutches produce the least heat also.
I spent at least 50 hr's making my '12 proclimb powder worthy. The Pro was a great surprise.
Can't be seen but can be felt (hot air flows out in use).
Other than that I have needed nothing in added venting (other than making the stock side vents flow better by creative bending and trimming, they are formed more for looks than function).
You have to be aware of the fact that snow covered holes flow nothing. So during the early wet heavy snow and later in the spring snow, I apply a quick wipe and buff of the best (every Pro deserves the best lol) carnuba wax every ride (takes 30 to 40 secs).
A fresh buff lasts most of a ride and lets the snow slide off every bunny hop.
The stock passive venting on the Pro (especially including the "hole" at the back of the belly pan) is the best to date for me from the factory. The clutches produce the least heat also.
I spent at least 50 hr's making my '12 proclimb powder worthy. The Pro was a great surprise.
I took my factory vent grilles out and cut pet screen to fit the openings and reinstalled the grilles; pinching the screen to hold it in place. I did the 6 openings in the hood and also the two side vents. Hoping this will hope to eliminate a glacier forming in the nose. I plan on installing the Blow Hole and hoping this will be the answer.
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk
D
I'm no extreme rider but I am struggling with burnt belts on my pro. We've narrowed it down to the fact that we are RIDING too much... apparently normal people stop throughout the day, whereas we do not. We are usually on the move and therefore not letting things cool off. I'm looking for other riders solutions to this problem. Do we need to "over vent"? I wonder if an electric fan could somehow be implemented to move air across the clutches? I'm all ears...
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Moflow vents
Clutch side moflow vent on a 14 pro! No problems
Clutch side moflow vent on a 14 pro! No problems
B
Dirty Steve, You need a SLP nose cone block off. I checked it out at their web site, and made my own out of some scrap aluminum sheeting I had on hand. It works awesome. Pull the hood and pipe and check out the holes in the nose, just in front of the upper control arms and you'll see why you have the glacier .Hope this helps. I also pet screened my vents to keep the powder out.
Bilge fan in the footwell.
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