Adjustable steering post broke

[Bowfisher]

I broke my adjustable post on my 2010 M8 yesterday. I was wondering where the common failure point or points are on these posts. I think I can fix it and make it stronger than it was but if there is another failure point then I'd probably just put a different post on it.

 

[mja]

Ive never seem one break there before.

 

[Bowfisher]

It's right below the weld where the adjuster is.

 

[CO 2.0]

I broke one at the same place the other week (2700 miles). Brutal ride out. I just replaced it with another stock adjustable post and called it a day. Would rather have my post break than something else down the line like the bulkhead. Wildchild does make a nice tunnel/bulkhead brace though. With 4 C-clamps and a piece of rubber hose you can rig up a broken post to ride out of the backcountry. Just wish I had those items in my kit when mine broke...

 

[Bowfisher]

I broke one at the same place the other week (2700 miles). Brutal ride out. I just replaced it with another stock adjustable post and called it a day. Would rather have my post break than something else down the line like the bulkhead. Wildchild does make a nice tunnel/bulkhead brace though. With 4 C-clamps and a piece of rubber hose you can rig up a broken post to ride out of the backcountry. Just wish I had those items in my kit when mine broke...

3161 miles on mine when it broke. I agree with you and I would rather having it break there than the bulkhead but I don't think that it would have done any damage to anything else if the post wouldn't have broke. It looks like the post has been cracked and braking for some time. There was rust on a few sections of the break.

 

[One]

Broke mine the other day, 1300 miles, adjustable post on an 09. Broke the smaller tube where it sleeves into the larger post above. Grabbed some pipe from Ace, 50 thou clearance when I sleeved in a section 5" or so long and welded er up.

 

[Bowfisher]

That's what I was thinking of doing. Did you put the sleeve on the inside or outside? Mines right below the weld so I'm thinking I'm going to have to sleeve the inside

 

[backcountryislife]

There are ways to fix it so that you'll never deal with or worry about it again.

And welding that POS isn't one of them.

I know I've said it too many times on here, but some have heard and others haven't. PUT A T TOP ON.

Do that, and you're done, period. No reason for it to break again with an intelligent post design.

To do that, you can get a T top post from wildchild, you can get a post from a 2010 CFR, or you can weld the lower or get a new one, and put a Zbros post adapter on. It's meant for the 2012, but it works on the M as well... same adjuster pattern on both.

With this setup, you're no longer putting stupid amounts of torque on a setup that has nowhere to go but fail.

If all you do is meadow mash, the stock post is ok, but if you honestly ride hard, it's a failure and a ride out from hell waiting to happen.

Btw, the pos one on my 2012 slips out of lock slamming to the top, just about tossing me from the sled from time to time... it's just a retarded design, and there's no reason that it can't be done better.

btw, if you need the adjustability (I'm a fan of that myself) you can get an adjustable pivot riser from a couple companies.

 

[Bowfisher]

There are ways to fix it so that you'll never deal with or worry about it again.

And welding that POS isn't one of them.

I know I've said it too many times on here, but some have heard and others haven't. PUT A T TOP ON.

Do that, and you're done, period. No reason for it to break again with an intelligent post design.

To do that, you can get a T top post from wildchild, you can get a post from a 2010 CFR, or you can weld the lower or get a new one, and put a Zbros post adapter on. It's meant for the 2012, but it works on the M as well... same adjuster pattern on both.

With this setup, you're no longer putting stupid amounts of torque on a setup that has nowhere to go but fail.

If all you do is meadow mash, the stock post is ok, but if you honestly ride hard, it's a failure and a ride out from hell waiting to happen.

Btw, the pos one on my 2012 slips out of lock slamming to the top, just about tossing me from the sled from time to time... it's just a retarded design, and there's no reason that it can't be done better.

btw, if you need the adjustability (I'm a fan of that myself) you can get an adjustable pivot riser from a couple companies.

I've seen pictures of your adjustable setup and I really like it. I thought about doing that last summer but never got around to it. So you're saying that the adjuster locking mechanism is another point of failure. What other failures have people seen on these? I think I'm going to sleeve it and finish out the year then this summer I'll end up installing a wildchild post and brace.

 

[summ8rmk]

Thats where it broke the second time!
Bcil is right. That is the correct way to fix it.

I used some rigid conduit that fit tight to fix it the first time when mine broke where urs broke.
Mine broke from turning not from rolling or smashing or jumping hard. Just from the fact that this sled is extremely difficult to turn.
I just welded it up again. I have a brand new bottom half that I haven't put in because I honestly feel that my welded post is stronger.

I put the wild child support on. It wasn't enough. It cracked all the way across anyway. So I bent up a piece of diamond plate riveted and used poo goo to attach it to the heat exchange.

Again, this damage is from turning the handle bars! When u turn right it pushes the post down into the tunnel and when u turn left it pulls the tunnel up pretty hard. Its real obvious when the tunnel is no-longer attached to the heat exchange.

I think all M's should have this!

 

[summ8rmk]

Duct tape, rubber hose, clamps, and the end of my shovel handle.

Borrowed hose clamp.

 

[One]

Correct, sleeved a piece inside the existing tube. Mine broke just below the weld as well.

 

[Frostbite]

Guys..... BackCountry was kind enough to send me the adjustable portion of a broken steering post for my kids M5. Now, I need the bottom half so I can add a thick pipe between them and have that baby welded up.

If any of you don't plan to fix your steering post, please send me a PM and let me know, I would love to buy the broken half from you.

 

[backcountryislife]

I've seen pictures of your adjustable setup and I really like it. I thought about doing that last summer but never got around to it. So you're saying that the adjuster locking mechanism is another point of failure. What other failures have people seen on these? I think I'm going to sleeve it and finish out the year then this summer I'll end up installing a wildchild post and brace.

Well... I think my issues with the 12 adjuster failing are uncommon, I've never had that happen on another one.

What the issue is, is that you've got one long post that takes a ton of torque from each direction, and has nowhere to go in the case of too much pressure.

With a T top, if it hits a tree, if you eat the bars... whatever, it can roll out of the way, like on every other sled made.

If you give something this long no point of failure/ give, it's going to break, and by murphy's law, it WILL break when you are as deep into the SH** as possible.

I've snapped two welded ones that were sleeved as well, done by two respected welders... IF you weld it up nice & strong, then just put a t top adapter on it, after that, you'll have a setup that's more likely to live a good life & not fail on you out in the bush.

I've been the one getting pulled out with the bars in my hands too many times, but I've also done it for buddies plenty as well... I just dont' understand why we would allow something that is ALL of how we control these machines, be such a weak link. It's not some little thing, if the bars snap on you somewhere nasty, it can create a very serious situation... when it could be fixed for under $100 and about 15 minutes work if you don't want an adjustable, and under $180 if you do.

 

[backcountryislife]

Guys..... BackCountry was kind enough to send me the adjustable portion of a broken steering post for my kids M5. Now, I need the bottom half so I can add a thick pipe between them and have that baby welded up.

If any of you don't plan to fix your steering post, please send me a PM and let me know, I would love to buy the broken half from you.

Lee, you need to use your lower 1/2 and weld it to the upper 1/2 I sent you. the lower from the m8/1000 won't work on that sled. I always thought it would, then I finally sent one to a guy doing what you are, and he had to splice them together.

Cut mine a bit cleaner where it's broken, and then cut yours at the same height, sleeve them, weld them together, and you'll have the m5 lower that works with that machine, and the M8 upper that lets you adjust.

 

[Polarisrocks]

the sleeve that fits inside with a little help is black 1/2 gas pipe that you'd use for plumbing your home with. It had the tightest fit

Jim

 

[Bowfisher]

Well... I think my issues with the 12 adjuster failing are uncommon, I've never had that happen on another one.

What the issue is, is that you've got one long post that takes a ton of torque from each direction, and has nowhere to go in the case of too much pressure.

With a T top, if it hits a tree, if you eat the bars... whatever, it can roll out of the way, like on every other sled made.

If you give something this long no point of failure/ give, it's going to break, and by murphy's law, it WILL break when you are as deep into the SH** as possible.

I've snapped two welded ones that were sleeved as well, done by two respected welders... IF you weld it up nice & strong, then just put a t top adapter on it, after that, you'll have a setup that's more likely to live a good life & not fail on you out in the bush.

I've been the one getting pulled out with the bars in my hands too many times, but I've also done it for buddies plenty as well... I just dont' understand why we would allow something that is ALL of how we control these machines, be such a weak link. It's not some little thing, if the bars snap on you somewhere nasty, it can create a very serious situation... when it could be fixed for under $100 and about 15 minutes work if you don't want an adjustable, and under $180 if you do.

I see what you're saying about some where for those impact forces to go. What do you recommend for a fix for under a hundred? I think that the wildchild T post was 180 by itself

 

[backcountryislife]

I see what you're saying about some where for those impact forces to go. What do you recommend for a fix for under a hundred? I think that the wildchild T post was 180 by itself

depends on how high you go I suppose.

so, one of these:

http://www.zbrozracing.com/2-steering-assembly-2012-13-proclimb-rasmussen-backcountry-approved

And pick up a cheap riser from Michelle.

Looks like I'm a bit low, the cheaper risers look like they'll run you about $50, so you're looking at about $130 total.

There's usually some used risers around though.

 

[Bowfisher]

I think that I like the wildchild post better than that. I'm not going to lie or try fooling anyone into thinking I'm doing anything extreme, but I'm not just bashing meadows either. I'm sure what broke it was hitting all them dam trees. I'm thinking I'll sleeve it for now and after this season is over switch it out for a wildchild post. BCIL do you know what the height of your post and riser were? Thanks for the advice

 

[backcountryislife]

I think that I like the wildchild post better than that. I'm not going to lie or try fooling anyone into thinking I'm doing anything extreme, but I'm not just bashing meadows either. I'm sure what broke it was hitting all them dam trees. I'm thinking I'll sleeve it for now and after this season is over switch it out for a wildchild post. BCIL do you know what the height of your post and riser were? View attachment 201542Thanks for the advice

The one I run is a 4-6" riser, and I set it to about 4.5. This is a bit lower than a 2012 at it's lowest position, but I don't ride hunched over either.

I'd say 5.5 would be the same as a 2012.

I'm definitely not saying that topper is better than the wildchild, just trying to get you back on the road again cheap.

His post is rock friggin solid.

My setup will run you about $320 total for post & adjustable risers... but it's a very nice setup.