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OIL RATIO DISCUSSION ON THE 800 CFI MOTORS
- Thread starter mountainhorse
- Start date
Wyo I disagree with you on a few things. Oil is not a fuel in a two stroke motor. Gas burns the oil doesn't(for the most part, a small amount is burned hence the smoke in your exhaust) and is left behind to lube the engine. 40:1 is a little light, I would run at least 32:1. When I raced karts the synthetic oils were just coming out. Guys went from 20:1 minimum to 50:1 on the oil makers recommendation. Pretty soon the fast guys were moving back towards 20:1 with synthetic, most ran 32:1 like the big brains on this board recommend. I wouldn't do an oil injection delete. I like the idea of oil being injected on those bearings directly and I think adding oil to the gas just supplements the top end lubrication for rings and pistons. A wet cylinder wall seals better than a dry one, should last longer too. There is not enough oil in the gas to affect the tune either. Last, you have one shot at breaking in your rings. The first time you run your engine you want those precious rings to wear a little and synthetic definitely reduces wear. I am positive that standard oil is better for that job.
T
Great article!!!!! Just to clear things up, with all the mentioned above will someone give me a fairly definite of a minimum and a maximum oil to add to the fuel? I have read anywhere from 1/2 ounce to gallon then to 1.5 ounce to each gallon as recommended by SLP. I realize there are several opinions on this would just like to be able to narrow it down. Also, I am running Amzoil red in my sleds and if I am not mistaken when adding oil to the fuel we should be adding a mineral based oil. What's the thoughts on this?
Matte,
The difference between petroleum based oil vs synthetic is minuscule when your looking at a wear factor, one of the big differences is the synthetic last longer thus giving a higher protection factor long term. On a 2 stroke it doesn't even have to last longer, the only reason I think its pushed is because of EPA reg's. Everyone can argue with me or have your opinion, no big deal do what you think is best. Everyone I talked with and read pretty much said if you feel better about it then go for it. I'm not going to dig up all the research I did because the same that believe it or not will stick to there guns and make there own choice. No need to argue over it and I'm not going to try and convince you of it because I really don't think it matters. (in some older stuff, it might)
As for it not being a fuel, now that is false. There is a reason we use 2 stroke oil specifically. It burns a lot easier than other oils, kinda like ATF and I know of a guy running 90% recycled ATF through his duramax, and it runs great (yeah a diesel is different but you can't tell me its not a fuel).
The difference between petroleum based oil vs synthetic is minuscule when your looking at a wear factor, one of the big differences is the synthetic last longer thus giving a higher protection factor long term. On a 2 stroke it doesn't even have to last longer, the only reason I think its pushed is because of EPA reg's. Everyone can argue with me or have your opinion, no big deal do what you think is best. Everyone I talked with and read pretty much said if you feel better about it then go for it. I'm not going to dig up all the research I did because the same that believe it or not will stick to there guns and make there own choice. No need to argue over it and I'm not going to try and convince you of it because I really don't think it matters. (in some older stuff, it might)
As for it not being a fuel, now that is false. There is a reason we use 2 stroke oil specifically. It burns a lot easier than other oils, kinda like ATF and I know of a guy running 90% recycled ATF through his duramax, and it runs great (yeah a diesel is different but you can't tell me its not a fuel).
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Turn them pumps up people!!
V
Is this known to be beneficial on the CFI 600 motors as well?
R
I checked mine and it was 3 1/2 turns lean.
turned mine up one turn and its now just above the scribe mark.
Messenbrink!!
To those stating that the extra oil in the tank as well as a richened oil pump causes fouling, I just got back from the sled's first trip out with my new SLP 777 engine. I richened up the pump as stated in earlier posts and am currently running a 40:1 pre-mix per SLP's direction. I'm using Amsoil Interceptor FWIW and using NGK Irridium plugs gapped at .027. I put 5 heat cycles on the engine prior to going out today and there was NO signs of fouling plugs then nor during the ride today. The sled ran awesome. When I'm done with the 40:1 pre-mix break-in, I'll continue to run about a 100:1 or so pre-mix. I have a lot of $$$ in this sled to whine about the extra $$$ I'm going to spend on the extra oil.
FWIW, I just poured in about 18oz of oil to top off the tank. The fuel tank is a hair below half. So guesstimating here, I'm around 35:1 to 40:1 on my pump output if I add around 5 to 6 gal. of gas to top off the tank. We rode around 50 miles today.
FWIW, I just poured in about 18oz of oil to top off the tank. The fuel tank is a hair below half. So guesstimating here, I'm around 35:1 to 40:1 on my pump output if I add around 5 to 6 gal. of gas to top off the tank. We rode around 50 miles today.
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I am on the same page as pus1100 and turbomatt. I have a stock 2011 pro which uses very little oil. To the point that it is scary. Most of what I have read here is over my head. I would appreciate any advise in layman's terms. I would also like to add that my oil light will come on even if the reservoir is 75-80% full.
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I turned my oil pump adjuster up, 3 turns (clockwise) . It took 3 turns to have any noticeable impact on the scribe mark and it's alignment with the oil pump arm notch. I have about 150 miles on my PRO, so I should be able to see a difference in oil usage, if there is much. If nothing else, it will make me feel better to think that the engine is using a little more oil.
Id just like to give my thanks to everyone who has contributed on this post. Very very useful information and this is snowest at its best here!
Now im not sure about the 2011 pro's but on my 2012 the lock nut on my adjuster has yellow paint around it. Im guessing its so the dealer can see if its been tampered with possibly for warranty issues? Id hate to break the seal and increase the oil then have engine issues and the dealer not warranty because of the broken seal. Anybody else seen this? Sorry I dont have any pictures I can get some tonight.
I put on 78 miles on my first tank of fuel so props to polaris for great economy! But it hardly put a dent in the oil tank. Im used to the old M7 wich seemed to go trough a tank of oil every ride. I agree it definitly needs some more lube!
Now im not sure about the 2011 pro's but on my 2012 the lock nut on my adjuster has yellow paint around it. Im guessing its so the dealer can see if its been tampered with possibly for warranty issues? Id hate to break the seal and increase the oil then have engine issues and the dealer not warranty because of the broken seal. Anybody else seen this? Sorry I dont have any pictures I can get some tonight.
I put on 78 miles on my first tank of fuel so props to polaris for great economy! But it hardly put a dent in the oil tank. Im used to the old M7 wich seemed to go trough a tank of oil every ride. I agree it definitly needs some more lube!
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Yes there is the paint on the lock nut, and I too considered the issue of the warranty. I decided more oil can't be a bad thing and I would rather have a healthy engine and take my chances with the warranty.
so for those that have richened their pumps....
if it is spot on, the scribe would be 3 o'clock. i am assuming you want to go towards 2-2.30 to richen slightly or have you gone further than that?
(referencing lever notch to scribe)
if it is spot on, the scribe would be 3 o'clock. i am assuming you want to go towards 2-2.30 to richen slightly or have you gone further than that?
(referencing lever notch to scribe)
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I love it when a plan comes together....
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