Why do the dragons act so wild when boondocking?

[Ken Climb]

Why do the dragons act so twitchy and seem like they have a mind of there own?

I put alot of time on the 2010 D8 a couple day's last week and found it easy to get out of control when climbing. I could hop on a M_sled and pick a line and its done.....but the Dragon, not so easily done! I'd be flying up a climb and woah out of control just like that. I mean I could get it back under control, but sometimes you just don't have the room, you know. Is it the front end shocks, a-arms? what does it take to get these beasts under control. The one I rode had a turbo, but so did the 2010 m-8 I rode and that thing handles soooo nice.
Please inform me! Thanks

 

[winter brew]

I'd like to know too....I spent many days on a '09 and never could get it to be a pleasure to ride....always having a mind of it's own, very "twitchy" and those long bars are like steering a bus, wierd steering post angle also.
Adjustable front shocks, ditching the swaybar and a Alpha-X rear made it better, but still awkward at best IMO. Get ready for the flames-

 

[turbodiesel5.9]

The Dragon is by far the best handling sled I have ever had the pleasure of riding. Not knocking the M because I like it as well but the most common thing I see when someone jumps on my sled is they put way too much effort into movements and over compesate for turning. It takes no effort at all to make this sled do what ever I want and thats why I love it. As for the steering post angle it could not be more perfect for me but I am 6'4" so maybe that has something to do with it.

 

[FTXMOTORSPORTS]

Tipped up rails,to little torsional spring pre-load,improper rear torque arm mounting geometry and way to little compression valving in the rear shock. The unpredictable nature of that chassis is also complicated by heavier riders and the steep approach angle...it can all be rectified with a little effort and coin...When all is said and done, its a very easy to ride and predictable chassis(like it should have been out of the box).
The IQ RMK handles boost VERY well with a few tweaks!
Winter, I thought I was the only guy in the world that hated those" moto sickle" bars-I'll take my narrow '08 bars please!

curt

 

[Lambert454]

Have you thought about putting wider A arms on? Z broz makes a kit for your sled for 475$. Widening the front end will stabilize the front end alittle better...

Lambert

 

[Ken Climb]

Sure widening the front end would make it more stable but its already hard to initiate an off canter carve with the narrow front end. I'm not flaming the Dragon, I'm actually seriously considering one after riding Boondockers 2010 test sled with turbo. I LOVE the instant throttle response with the mini intercooler and the ability to turn up the boost without messing with extra injectors. It's alot of fun.....if only I could control it better.

 

[Jkinzer]

Curt said it perfect... get some straight rails... throw a float in the rear valved properly for your weight and style, power claw track and your good to go!

 

[R J]

How about more time in the saddle? Each day you would think you would get more and more apt at what it's going to do etc.

Maybe the M was more controable because it is heavier, doesn't have near the power etc, it's set up is more favoring to you where the Polaris needs to be adjusted? A lot of variables to be looked into.

 

[hilinerider]

these sleds respond to slight movements easily which makes em so fun, after comin off my edge it took me a while to train myself not to throw weight around to get the reaction in different situations, after 2 seasons now i learned just to lean or apply light pressure to get the reponse i want rather than throwin it around , after ridin your yammi's i can see why it seems to have a mind of its own

 

[Ateam]

Glad that this thread got started, I have been wanting to talk about some of this chassis' issues for awhile. I have to say that in the right snow conditions it's the best or easiest chassis I've rode. IMO the right snow conditions for this chassis are 1'+ powder at tractoring / carving speeds on the throttle. IMO this chassis is one of the worst on hard pack or set up snow, little to no confidence in the handling in these conditions. I feel like I'm on the edge of loosing it and have to ride with alot of reservation. Not holding a line on a hill is also a problem that I can't get use to after riding it for two seasons. It's is frustrating not taking lines I've taken for years due to these handling problems.
It's nice to hear a guy like Curt know about these issues and list some solutions - Thanks

 

[AKSNOWRIDER]

Glad that this thread got started, I have been wanting to talk about some of this chassis' issues for awhile. I have to say that in the right snow conditions it's the best or easiest chassis I've rode. IMO the right snow conditions for this chassis are 1'+ powder at tractoring / carving speeds on the throttle. IMO this chassis is one of the worst on hard pack or set up snow, little to no confidence in the handling in these conditions. I feel like I'm on the edge of loosing it and have to ride with alot of reservation. Not holding a line on a hill is also a problem that I can't get use to after riding it for two seasons. It's is frustrating not taking lines I've taken for years due to these handling problems.
It's nice to hear a guy like Curt know about these issues and list some solutions - Thanks

guys..move the bars..try forward or back..but it will settle the chassis right down....I moved mine forward about 1 in..my buddy moved his back about 2 in..and in each case it fixed the feel of the machine......

 

[bjenkins]

Remember one thing, Polaris has designed their chassis to handle well both on the trail and mountain therefore the chassis does not handle perfectly on the mountain. Arctic cat on the other hand does not handle half as good on the trail but handles way better on the mountain in stock form. The uncontrollable ride on the mountain is simply too much weight transfer and has nothing to do with the front end, you must keep the front end down before it will make a difference. You can make the chassis handle very well with a shock change or you could go M10 or Timbersled they work best with big power.

 

[sledneck_03]

every one i know that switched from edge to the raw iq thought it was super tippy. I just got use to it, love it. I can jump a hill and land on one ski and carv out of it. i love how much this thing leans, my 62 year old dad ripps it still pretty hard and he road my rmk and thought it was tippy too but then he watched me for a while and was like it just leans hard thats all, now hes use to it and wants one of his own. Ive road a skidoo summit rt and xp since buying my rmk and i have to say i hated it, super flat driving sled, i like things nuts and fun.

 

[Ateam]

In stock form, including optimizing stock adjustments (handle bars, suspension & etc) I think they can make medium skilled riders look and feel pretty talented in ligther snow and open spaces. But with the stock chassis I would have to think twice before running the point of no return lines that have been an after thought to me on other sleds. I guess the question I have is how much powder carving ability do you sacrifice by doing the straight rails, rear shock and etc. to get rid of the twitchiness.

 

[sled_guy]

From what I've experience on my '09 most of my issues lie in the fact that I'm 250lbs and the shocks just can't handle it. ZeroPros valved right on the sled made a huge difference in predictability of the sled.

It needs some other tweaks, but getting properly setup shocks on it helped me dramatically.

sled_guy

 

[rmk727]

Agree with not liking the pro tapers, i prefer the 08 bars myself also the IQ is the best Iv'e riden but remember as others have said you have to customize it for you as you should do to any sled, maybe that m series was set up better for you it couldn't be stock if it had a turbo also I really search for the pow and find I need to move back to where the seat ends in hard stuff for better control, also moving the bar around and up really helps, they come with so many things to do not set up perfect for all but can be, also the verdict is still out with me on the WE's I'm trying some Struthers set ups next season to compare.

 

[Ollie]

I have over 2500 miles on mine and it handles better than any sled I have ridden.
The M8 is very predictable, but is harder to control because it is a lot flatter. The Rmk's were designed to be a little top heavy.
Once you get used to the Rmk's they are a breeze to ride. Instant responce. As for doing a carve change in a side hill or climb situation, I have ridden the M8 and the dragon and the dragon is a LOT easier once you figure out the tipping point. you ride the Rmk's from the neutral position. If you are jumping all over the place like a monkey on fire you will lose it quick.
All you have to do is set it up for your weight and get a little seat time.
That being said, some sleds just arn't for you.
It's like me and Skidoo's. I can't stand em, I can't get used to the extreme rider forward. Doesn't make em a bad sled overall, just a bad sled for me.

 

[EricW]

Ken,

I would have to agree with what most have posted above as far as cause & effect. I did the 43" Z Bros front and a Z Bros EZ-Ride in the rear. I also did the Skinz 2" rise Mountain Bar with a Powermadd 6.5" riser. I'm 6' and 250 or so today and love how much better this thing handles. That said, I have not had this combo on spring snow yet so we'll see. I would be glad to come north and ride with ya if you would like to give it a try. I have had some boost leak issues that I think are resolved so I plan to try 10-12 pounds this weekend and see how she does in the current conditions.

One thing that I noticed about the ZBros front is when both my sled and our 07 D7 are on the deck and I go over rough ground or bumps with the truck. My sled sways back and fourth leaning over much easier than the D7 (which has re-valved WE's) to a point then becomes more stable quick. The D7 seems that it doesnt move at all, until a certain point, then moves all at once. I think that must be where the triple rate shocks start to kick in or the geometry of the A-Arms. I'm not sure. Watching both in the rear view mirror there is a clear difference in the same conditions.

Shoot me a pm if you'ld like to take it for a spin. EW

 

[turbodiesel5.9]

I have over 2500 miles on mine and it handles better than any sled I have ridden.
The M8 is very predictable, but is harder to control because it is a lot flatter. The Rmk's were designed to be a little top heavy.
Once you get used to the Rmk's they are a breeze to ride. Instant responce. As for doing a carve change in a side hill or climb situation, I have ridden the M8 and the dragon and the dragon is a LOT easier once you figure out the tipping point. you ride the Rmk's from the neutral position. If you are jumping all over the place like a monkey on fire you will lose it quick.
All you have to do is set it up for your weight and get a little seat time.
That being said, some sleds just arn't for you.
It's like me and Skidoo's. I can't stand em, I can't get used to the extreme rider forward. Doesn't make em a bad sled overall, just a bad sled for me.

 

[corpeleven]

To each, his own..but....

The IQ RMK chassis is BY FAR the best handling mountain sled I've ever ridden. This chassis is incredible. All you have to do is *think it* and the sled does it. It's almost like autopilot. Where it really shines is any kind of sidehilling or off camber pow move. Come in to a big steep pow hill from the top, give'r a lean and slide down as far as you choose..feather the throttle a bit, give'r a kick and she's headed back up. Is it winter yet??? I rode an XP, a Nytro, and a M 7 this year (all buddies sleds) and I honestly can't believe that somebody would buy one of those if they've ridden an IQ RMK. It will take a lot to get me off this chassis.

The sled is great in it's stock form. But put some Float 2's on the front, yank the swaybar out, and tune the rear to your weight and it becomes exceptional.