Not How I Wanted to Start Pre-Season Maintenance

[boondocker97]

Heat, impact driver, broken torx bits...time to quit messing around! Had to dig two of them out this way. No corrosion, no loctite, and installed with a 1/4" ratchet. Going to go back with the torx plus bolts from ZRP along with the 1/2lb lighter roller spider (replaces steel with aluminum). This is on a Tied clutch. I should also add that the roller spider part number is different for a Tied clutch than the one for the stock 2016 and newer secondaries listed on their website. Have to contact ZRP directly for the Tied part.

 

[sno*jet]

any longevity concerns on the aluminum roller towers? was thinking about one too. seems like they used the heaviest steel they could get there.

 

[boondocker97]

If I had to guess they made the roller spider out of powdered metal for ease of manufacturing. Then the only machining operation is the finish and snap ring groves on the roller pins. The billet machined/anodized part ends up being a $100 part at cost. Which is 25% - 30% the cost of producing the clutch. As long as the anodizing is type III it shouldn't wear out the roller pins. The rollers are also so large here that they contact a large area against the surface of the main part of the hub. Under load that's going to help redistribute the bending stress on the pin over a larger diameter area. Just don't let the rollers get slopped out to maintain this relationship. As far as strength Aluminum has a limited fatigue life, but the material they are using is 7075 which has a higher fatigue limit and strength properties than some of the more common alloys used. The one area I'm a little leery of is the splines on the new spider do not fit as tight as the original part. So those might be more prone to getting hammered out over time.

 

[sno*jet]

do you know what this is made of? modified stock piece?

Lightweight Driven Clutch Spider // 2016-2021 Arctic Cat Snowmobile / Wildcat XX TEAM BOSS Clutch

Our new Lightweight Driven Clutch Spider reduces rotating weight by .75lbs to improve throttle response. May effect clutching and operating RPM.

speedwerx.com

 

[boondocker97]

I do not. Although it definitely looks like it could be a machined stock piece.

The extra play in the splines I noted sure makes it easier to line up and install when re-assembling the clutch compared to the one I took out!

 

[madmax]

Such a small weight loss at close to the rotation center, there will be almost no rotational mass benefit. Especially on the jack shaft that rpm is much lower than the crank. If you’re going for over all weight loss, .75lb loss for a little over $100 ain’t terrible.

 

[boondocker97]

Correct. It only saved 1/2lb on the tied clutch and $150 for $300/lb. Was hoping for the 3/4lb savings advertised on the stock clutch for $200/lb. All the easy weight loss items have long been swapped out on my sled so it seems everything is $300+/lb at this stage. If I knew how heavy these tied clutches were I probably wouldn't have bought one in the first place!

 

[sno*jet]

the stock piece is a paper weight, whenever ive been in there ive always wished i had the lighter one to go back in. I just want the parts for next time im in there, wouldnt tear it down just to install it. Should i order some derlin washers for the spring for next time also? been a while since i was in there. was also eyeballing the speedwerx rollers. cheers.

 

[boondocker97]

I put some Venom delrin washers in the last time I was in mine with a fresh spring. They are really thin so shouldn't affect spring pressure much and only $10. They make them for the BOSS secondary as well: https://venomproducts.com/product/delrin-washer-3-pk-2/

I asked Racin Station about rollers in my Tied clutch since they were starting to get a little play. He said they don't worry about them unless they are really worn. Not sure if that applies to the BOSS system, but never a bad idea to keep clutches in top shape IMO.

 

[boondocker97]

Working on getting the chain case out and noticed this wire rubbed through on the frame spar above it. Wires go to the speed sensor and 12v accessory plug. Wonder if this is contributing to my random no-start situation I've gotten the last two years? Going to fix it anyway.

 

[boondocker97]

Also, as cool as it looks and as much as I wanted to improve efficiency 10" wheels on a Kmod twin rail are a no-go. Would have 1/4-1/2" of interference between the track lugs and the top of the tunnel at bottom out with a 2.6 powerclaw. Bummer.

 

[Teth-Air]

Also, as cool as it looks and as much as I wanted to improve efficiency 10" wheels on a Kmod twin rail are a no-go. Would have 1/4-1/2" of interference between the track lugs and the top of the tunnel at bottom out with a 2.6 powerclaw. Bummer.

View attachment 393812

How about if you lowered your rear suspension to the bottom drop bracket hole?

 

[boondocker97]

That would work from a clearance standpoint, but I feel like handling would be a step backwards for me. Already did a fair amount of work shortening the shocks and converting rear coupler from Gen II to Gen III geometry to get less ski pressure. Was actually thinking of putting a hole above the current one to have even less ski pressure.

 

[Teth-Air]

That would work from a clearance standpoint, but I feel like handling would be a step backwards for me. Already did a fair amount of work shortening the shocks and converting rear coupler from Gen II to Gen III geometry to get less ski pressure. Was actually thinking of putting a hole above the current one to have even less ski pressure.

I agree this changes the ski pressure but wasn't sure if you could soften the rear and stiffen forward shocks up to offset that. Would sacrifice travel if it ran lower in the stroke. 1/2" is pretty small amount to try and deal with though.

 

[boondocker97]

Another piece of the equation is I added Elevate spindles up front last year and it's loading the rear shock more. So now the rear shock is not stiff enough in the valving department (I'll be fixing that here shortly). Running the rear lower in the stroke gives less distance between the rear arm and the coupler block... might engage it sooner and end up with less ski lift regardless of how much a person softens it with the spring.

I'm already at the limit with letting the limiter out up front to take ski pressure off too. Scrubbing the hyfax as hard as I dare.

 

[sno*jet]

if you can exchange for a 9" kit, seems like the easiest solution. i doubt any efficiency loss with a 2.6. Is it a spring sled? I dont like super tall sleds in spring. whatever ya do im sure can be dialed in with that skid though.

 

[boondocker97]

I was able to borrow a used axle and wheel for mockup because I suspected there would be a clearance issue. So I'm not out anything there yet. But yeah 9" would be fine. Just not sure the difference from 8" to 9" is enough to justify the cost.

It's being converted to a spring/not bottomless snow sled now. Cutting it down from 162 3" to 153 2.6". Figured no sense having two 160 3" sleds since I picked up the supercharged alpha last year. The stock height spindles will go back on for hillcross. Tall and narrow is definitely not what you want for good cornering traits!

 

[kanedog]

Hey we are travelling the same road my friend!

 

[boondocker97]

I'm jealous of that high and low speed compression adjuster on your shock setup kanedog. What size wheels are you running, and does your track stay away from the tunnel?

 

[kanedog]

10” x 4 wheels. Track does hit tunnel 2-3x a ride. I also carry 50 lbs of gas and tools, etc so that could have some effect.
I’m sorry to tell you the high and low speed shock adjustment is wasted on me. I have no shock experience and I’m too lazy to adjust on the hill. I feel shame. ?