2016 m8000 adjustments & help

[Truckkid42]

I’ve had my 16’ m8000 153 Snopro for 2 seasons now without hiccup. Now, I’d like to do some maintenance and make changes to help it ride better. It’s hard to search for help, so could anyone help the bellow?

- front shocks - how can I tell if they need a rebuild? And what pressure is correct for my riding? (All off trail, in the trees type riding)

- front skis - is there a correct measurement for tow I need to adjust for? (The right control arm has a small dent and makes the ski about 1/2” forward of the other, is this causing any issues?)

- rear skid - same pressure question for front and rear shock? How can I tell if they need a rebuild and what pressure to run? Also, what bolt hole should I have the skid located in and the limiter straps?

- belt - towed my buddy out of a river last week, noticing a bad squeak from the belt afterwards. I just put this new belt on the trip before. did I smoke it or how can I tell if I did?

My biggest notice is how the sled seems to want to dive nose over. It feels like it wants to plow into the snow and I think it’s extremely difficult to tip on its side and counter steer? Could this be because of the aftermarket powder pro skis or the carbides?

 

[ndfb35]

For the suspension questions we need to know your weight.

 

[Truckkid42]

I weigh 220 without gear

 

[koolaid]

Front ski shocks 60-70
Rear track shock 140-150
Limiter strap all the way out
Front skis should be towed out 1/4"

I've only noticed the "nosedive" coming downhill in real deep snow.

 

[BV Greg]

I have a 2017 Mountain Cat with Powder Pros and it definitely doesn't "nosedive".

If you go here, this chart for air pressure based on your weight seems to be pretty close for me:

Air Chart Settings Tom's Snowmobile & Service Sierraville, CA (844) 371-2731

Air Chart Settings Tom's Snowmobile & Service Sierraville, CA (844) 371-2731

tomssnowmobile.com

If you get the air pressures for skis and rear track right, then maybe you need to go heavier preload on the front track shock so that it puts more weight on the back of the sled.

I doubt that the bent/dented A-Arm is causing the nosedive, but I'd probably fix it anyway.

I had my suspension rebuilt this fall by Andy at GSR. He had a really quick turnaround right after thanksgiving and was very reasonable in price. I did it as preventative maintenance with 2000 miles on the sled. I felt a noticeable, but not huge, difference in performance.

I had the belt squeeling issue last week and was worried it could be from a variety of problems with my clutches. Turns out it was just that the adjuster jam nut on my secondary clutch had loosened, which allowed the adjuster set-screw to back out, which pushed the secondary sheaves too close together, which made the belt deflection too tight, which caused it to squeal. I would clean your clutches and belt really well and check deflection and see if that takes care of the squeal.

 

[jarred kale]

I’ve had my 16’ m8000 153 Snopro for 2 seasons now without hiccup. Now, I’d like to do some maintenance and make changes to help it ride better. It’s hard to search for help, so could anyone help the bellow?

- front shocks - how can I tell if they need a rebuild? And what pressure is correct for my riding? (All off trail, in the trees type riding)

192.168.100.1 192.168.1.1​

- front skis - is there a correct measurement for tow I need to adjust for? (The right control arm has a small dent and makes the ski about 1/2” forward of the other, is this causing any issues?)

- rear skid - same pressure question for front and rear shock? How can I tell if they need a rebuild and what pressure to run? Also, what bolt hole should I have the skid located in and the limiter straps?
- belt - towed my buddy out of a river last week, noticing a bad squeak from the belt afterwards. I just put this new belt on the trip before. did I smoke it or how can I tell if I did?

My biggest notice is how the sled seems to want to dive nose over. It feels like it wants to plow into the snow and I think it’s extremely difficult to tip on its side and counter steer? Could this be because of the aftermarket powder pro skis or the carbides?

do you have some pics of it ?

 

[summ8rmk]

2017 mtn cat is a lot different than a 2016.
Less nose dive down hill. That dropped case makes the sled better in so many ways.

140+psi in rear track is great for hill climbs but makes the sled handle poor boondocking.
On the same hill, Try 125psi then 130psi, then 135psi.
See if u actually want it 140 or higher, some people like it that way...
Front track shock needs a lot of pre-load to get good transfer and easier steering but will worsen down hill diving.


Sent from my SM-G998U using Tapatalk

 

[boondocker97]

Float shocks should have the air sleeves cleaned and re-lubed once a season to keep them from getting sticky and get rid of water that can freeze and cause leaks. Pull the shocks off, take the cores out of the air shrader valves (or remove the spring), and compress the shocks. If they compress and return on their own smoothly then the nitrogen charge is still intact. If not then a rebuild is needed. If you notice any oil leaking they need a rebuild. If you have 2000 miles or more they probably need a rebuild.

 

[greenmtnboys]

I run about 95 lbs in my front shocks so you don't get that roll feeling on the trail. If your sled seems nose heavy your probably not getting enough weight transfer . I run 140 in front of rear skid and 95 in the back of skid