2004 Deep Snow service manual

[Rmk69]

Hey guys, may be a long shot but I'm going to be changing the crank seal on the PTO side of my 2004 RMK 700 Vertical Edge. Wondering if anyone has the service manual for this sled in a digital copy or even pictures of this process. Thanks!

 

[whoisthatguy]

You better have a really good reason to do something like that. Basically, you pull the engine, remove the cylinder heads, remove the flywheel, remove the magneto, remove the water pump/magneto housing, and split the block. If you are going this far into the engine, which is all the way, you might as well change out the seal at the other end of the crank, which is in the water pump/magneto housing, change the 2 outer crank bearings on each end of the crankshaft, change the piston rings, and change the outer piston rod bearing. You could also clean up the cylinders by using one of the triple spinning honing tools, and clean up the pistons with a 3M fiberglass drill wheel or just replace them. You don't really need the service manual to do all of this. The only tricky thing is removing and replacing the crank bearings. Which is to just heat up the inner bearing ring with a propane torch briefly, and slide it off before it cools. You will also need new cylinder base gaskets, new high temperature Polaris O-rings on top of the cylinders and some motorcycle engine block gasket maker for putting the two cylinder block halves back together. Also, all of the other bearings and seals mentioned above.

 

[volcano buster]

Was not aware a triple spinning honing tool would touch the nicasil finish of the cylinder bore.

 

[Rmk69]

You better have a really good reason to do something like that. Basically, you pull the engine, remove the cylinder heads, remove the flywheel, remove the magneto, remove the water pump/magneto housing, and split the block. If you are going this far into the engine, which is all the way, you might as well change out the seal at the other end of the crank, which is in the water pump/magneto housing, change the 2 outer crank bearings on each end of the crankshaft, change the piston rings, and change the outer piston rod bearing. You could also clean up the cylinders by using one of the triple spinning honing tools, and clean up the pistons with a 3M fiberglass drill wheel or just replace them. You don't really need the service manual to do all of this. The only tricky thing is removing and replacing the crank bearings. Which is to just heat up the inner bearing ring with a propane torch briefly, and slide it off before it cools. You will also need new cylinder base gaskets, new high temperature Polaris O-rings on top of the cylinders and some motorcycle engine block gasket maker for putting the two cylinder block halves back together. Also, all of the other bearings and seals mentioned above.

Thanks for the reply. I'm changing the seal after a short trip out early in the week, I noticed some oil sprayed on the underside of the clutch cover. I just finished removing the motor from the sled, going to get a fly wheel puller and I plan on only breaking the case apart from the underside, replacing the seal that has failed and hopefully go from there, compression test is showing 130psi so I'm not worried about the top end. Obviously I will have a look at the crank and bearings while I'm opened up but the snow is flying and other then the start of some spraying oil, the sled was working great.

 

[retiredpop]

In addition to the info whoisthatguy gave you:

 

[whoisthatguy]

If you decide to remove the cylinder heads, you would then have the opportunity to install the oil drain hole to the PTO bearings, that make those two bearings last longer. You will notice that there are already two drain holes to the Mag side crank bearings below the Mag side piston, but only one drain hole at the base of the PTO side piston. The new drain hole goes in at a 30 degree to 45 degree angle from the vertical, which is why robot machines could not drill that hole in the factory.