Used Burandt boards. Needed hardware?

xc6rider · Nov 26, 2015

Got a set of used burandt boards i plan to install on my '12.

Any known specifics on what hardware ill need to pick up? Assuming this should be fairly straight forward without having the templates etc, just a little added time looking at pix and finding my cut lines.

Thanks guys!

Sheetmetalfab · Nov 26, 2015

Just 3/16" rivets.

Drill holes on the in between spaces that don't have factory holes.
They need all the fasteners they can get.

LoudHandle · Nov 27, 2015

If you'd have posted this a day or two sooner I could have sent a couple install kits with the head. Anyway PM me if you want the instructions,template, rivets, and bolts that come with them new.

tuneman · Nov 27, 2015

Here's what you need, or at least what I can think of at the moment:

3/16" x 1/4" long stainless steel rivets (enough for all the holes)
3/16" x 1/2" long, wide flange aluminum rivets (you need 4 for the front holes)
3/16" x 12" long aircraft drill bit (readily available at Home Depot or any hardware store)
Air saw or angle grinder
black marker
Masking tape(to prevent scratching anything you don't want)
A quality 3/16" drill bit (for the rivets)

Drill out the rivets of the outer tube, unbolt it front and back and remove.
Rough cut the existing board in half (so that you can bend down the edges sticking up for the next step)

Lay your new board on top and lightly bolt the front and back. Bend down any metal that sticks up and interferes.
Trace the outline of the new board on the existing metal. This is your cut line
Trim the existing metal with your air saw, or whatever tool you have
Carefully trim around the drop brackets
The front most tunnel side rivet hole requires you to reshape the aluminum a bit to make it fit

Bolt on new board
Trim away plastic at front that sticks out from front most large hole
Use your aircraft bit and drill out the rivet holes.
Install rivets from underneath. Use the long, large flange rivets for the front 2 holes on each board that go thru the plastic. (Aluminum rivets can be used here, since it's not that structural. Large flanged stainless are hard to find.)
Go ride.

ullose272 · Nov 27, 2015

tuneman said:
Here's what you need, or at least what I can think of at the moment:

5/16" x 1/4" long stainless steel rivets (enough for all the holes)

5/16" x 1/2" long, wide flange aluminum rivets (you need 4 for the front holes)

5/16" x 12" long aircraft drill bit (readily available at Home Depot or any hardware store)

Air saw or angle grinder

black marker

Masking tape(to prevent scratching anything you don't want)

A quality 5/6" drill bit (for the rivets)

Drill out the rivets of the outer tube, unbolt it front and back and remove.

Rough cut the existing board in half (so that you can bend down the edges sticking up for the next step)

Lay your new board on top and lightly bolt the front and back. Bend down any metal that sticks up and interferes.

Trace the outline of the new board on the existing metal. This is your cut line

Trim the existing metal with your air saw, or whatever tool you have

Carefully trim around the drop brackets

The front most tunnel side rivet hole requires you to reshape the aluminum a bit to make it fit

Bolt on new board

Trim away plastic at front that sticks out from front most large hole

Use your aircraft bit and drill out the rivet holes.

Install rivets from underneath. Use the long, large flange rivets for the front 2 holes on each board that go thru the plastic. (Aluminum rivets can be used here, since it's not that structural. Large flanged stainless are hard to find.)

Go ride.

everything is 3/16 not 5/16

LoudHandle · Nov 27, 2015

ullose272 said:
everything is 3/16 not 5/16

In addition, I prefer to add a rivet and rivet tab between each of the factory placements and also glue them, but that's just me. FWIW

xc6rider · Nov 27, 2015

Awesome guys, thanks!

Loudhandle, ill let ya know if i'd decide to use that stuff. Ill be waiting to get my engine back together before i start this. Had just remembered i have them sitting in the garage.

tuneman · Nov 27, 2015

ullose272 said:
everything is 3/16 not 5/16

Oops, good catch, thanks. I corrected my original post, so as to not confuse anyone.

xc6rider · Jan 23, 2016

Thank you Tuneman!

Been a LONG season of $hit for me... I've had these used boards laying around since spring, and finally installed them.

I went and bought the 3/16" rivets mentioned above, and basically followed Tunemans instructions to a T. Got a few new 3/16"drill bits, as well as the 12" aircraft bit (essential!). No template etc...

I used a 24t blade on a cordless sawzall for the big cuts (first take of half the stock boards). Also used a pneumatic air saw for a lot of fine tuning cuts. And a die grinder with a small carbide I have, for smoothing, cleaning up edges. Also, used a super duty rivet gun, regular handheld pop-rivet gun will prob work,but you'll feel like you rubbed one out for a month solid!

It's a pain in the @ss. Especially when it's your own sled

I wasted all night doing this, but went very slow and continually checked things. First cutting, essentially destroying a perfectly good tunnel, swirls in your mind!

Take the time, lay things out, look it over, repeat. Keep doing it until you know you're good, and eventually it'll start to look like what you expect.

I did run into a couple holes that look as though they are worthless, regardless of how careful I was cutting. Freaked me out, but it was unavoidable it appears.

I still have a little cleaning up I'll do with my grinder, but overall I'm very happy. These are gonna be a great upgrade.

Don't attempt this if you don't have a good supply of tools and understanding, it's fairly simple, but pretty crucial!

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Used Burandt boards. Needed hardware?

xc6rider

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LoudHandle

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tuneman

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ullose272

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xc6rider

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