2013 Pro RMK 800 High Idle and No reverse?

newbb · Sep 29, 2016

Hi Guys, New to the site. Just picked up a 2013 Pro RMK 800 yesterday. Im thinking if I cant off-trail ride this sled properly Im just throwing in the towel on off trail-riding all together. Coming from a 2004 skidoo 163" highmark summit that I hated with a passion.

But before I can even ride this Pro I have to figure out a issue my sled has.
Its got 125 psi compression per hole and aftermarket can and 1500 miles on the clock.

It starts on 2 pulls and immediately the digital gauge shows "9 - non" or something like that for a split second and then goes to normal rpm and stuff. Wondering if this is normal or a code I should check?

My sled Idles at 2500 rpm and my reverse button does absolutely nothing which are my main concerns.

It does not even try to go into reverse when button it pressed either....nothing.

I see a little throttle adjuster/idle screw on the throttle stop but doesn't look like it should be messed with so I haven't touched it.

One thing the sled does do is while warmed up and idling constant between 2400-2600 rpm the check engine light will come on for a second or 2 and at same time the rpms will drop down to 1500 rpm then the check engine light goes off and the sled idles back up to 2500-ish rpms.

Its almost like it wants to idle where its suppose to and trys for a second or 2 but cant.....

Anyone ever had this specific issue?

Oh and the brake light switch seems to be a little sticky once in a while but dont think that has anything to do with high 2500 rpm idle....

aksledjunkie · Sep 29, 2016

Check your TPS. There are paint markers on it signifying where they need to line up with(other paint markers)
Had this happen on my '14. Reverse wouldn't work at all. Wouldn't even recognize it and my idle was all sorts of messed up.

newbb · Sep 29, 2016

Yours moved out of alignment on its own? how would that happen? Just vibration?

powderseeker7 · Sep 30, 2016

Normal idle RPM should be around 1700. The sled not going in reverse is a safe guard. Sled won't go in reverse until rpms come down.
Check your throttle gap and adjust the cable adjuster you were talking about.
If that doesn't solve it then check your TPS.

Reg2view · Sep 30, 2016

Your display is telling you it's on a non-ethanol setting when you first start it.

There is a throttle cable slack adjuster about 4 inches downstream from the throttle block to adjust the freeplay between your throttle level and throttle block. The freeplay gap should be 20 thou before the throttle safety switch starts to engage. If the cable doesn't have slack it can high idle, won't go in reverse as said, etc.

Mess with the throttle stop on the throttle bodies and you're off to the dealer to get the TPS - Throttle Position Sensor - set. The check engine light will also be recording DTC - Diagnostic Trouble Codes - in the ECU. Can be retrieved again by a dealer with digital wrench, of if they are active, in the display. If the issue with high idle isn't an overtight throttle cable at the throttle block, you're off to a dealer anyways. Good luck! You'll find it much easier to ride than the 04 doo with the aftermarket track (assuming it's a 163 - stock highmark extreme was 159 in 04).

newbb · Sep 30, 2016

Thanks guys, Your right my old pig of a sled was a 159"...not a 163".

I will mess with that throttle cable adjuster you mentioned and see if that helps, otherwise Ill prob have to take it in to dealership or borrow a electric wrench tool from a local person.

If I do take it in what am I looking at a TPS adjustment costing? (so I know they are not ripping me)

Teth-Air · Sep 30, 2016

Look behind the clutch to see if there is any sign of belt debris that could indicate that an exploded belt got wrapped around the crank and damaged that seal. I have seen this on a Doo and if the seal is leaking air in the idle can go high. Some guys will use a unlit propane torch and release some gas around the seal while running to see if it picks up RPM. This would indicate its sucking air in.

aksledjunkie · Sep 30, 2016

Sadly no, I was messing with my sled and created my own problems but you live and learn. Knew how to fix it so that's a plus. I created those exact problems and it was by my own hand the TPS was out of alignment. Sounds like you've got a lot of things to check now so hopefully these help get your sled running right before snow flies.

Polford800 · Sep 30, 2016

I have to agree with teth air on this one. I have a pro in the shop now that ran fine but had high idle. the PTO bearing was coming apart and the metal parts had destroyed the seal. I did the TPS check , injectors, throttle plates as the sled started and ran fine.

newbb · Sep 30, 2016

Id hope with only 1500 miles the bearings/seals arnt failing already. ugh

cascadesnowjunky · Sep 30, 2016

I would not sweat it, there is a 99% chance that the tps is just out of adjustment. If you don't know how to check it take it to a qualified shop and they can do it. There are a few threads on here with great instruction if you feel like reading up on how to do it and are somewhat mechanically inclined.

Polford800 · Sep 30, 2016

cascadesnowjunky said:
I would not sweat it, there is a 99% chance that the tps is just out of adjustment. If you don't know how to check it take it to a qualified shop and they can do it. There are a few threads on here with great instruction if you feel like reading up on how to do it and are somewhat mechanically inclined.

The sled I had to do the crank on had 700 miles on it.
The owner was very disappointed as he thought he would buy a low mileage sled and have no issues. I did all the easy stuff first not thinking it was anything serious. I do agree with csj though, do the easy stuff first. Hopefully it is just a simple TPS adjustment. Looks like the odds are with you.

mtncat1 · Sep 30, 2016

don't do any thing with the sled until you verify that the throttle cable is not causing the problem .usually i have found that the cable just get pulled on and gets out of position causing this problem it is very common . if the throttle plates are being held open ot won't go into reverse and won't idle properly . the tps is usually not the problem .

newbb · Oct 20, 2016

Im not sure if I figured out the exact problem but I solved the issue.

I just turned out the idle screw stop slightly and now it idles at 1600 rpm and my reverse works normally.

Hope nothing else is seriously wrong that will give me more problems down the road....

yukonrider · Oct 20, 2016

Don't fuss with the throttle cable, look up how to PROPERLY adjust the TPS. The procedure involves adjusting your throttle cable. Adjusting with a random nut could throw the whole thing out or wack.

newbb · Nov 17, 2016

I already turned down the idle screw slightly and brought the idel down and reverse works now.

But

I was thinking maybe my primary clutch has different weights in it because the guy I got it from said he did ride the sled out west. I think he said he did adjust the clutching but cant remember for sure.

If the primary weights are swapped out for out west riding vs. Here in Wisconsin riding ....can that have a impact on the sleds idle and possibly been my issue all along with it idling high?

diamonddave · Nov 19, 2016

newbb said:
Im not sure if I figured out the exact problem but I solved the issue.

I just turned out the idle screw stop slightly and now it idles at 1600 rpm and my reverse works normally.

Hope nothing else is seriously wrong that will give me more problems down the road....

While you may have solved your symptom, you may have just caused a big problem if you did not have a quality voltmeter connected to the TPS while you adjusted the idle screw.

This idle screw is what sets the correct TPS voltage from idle (zero throttle opening) to full throttle and every position in between. The idle screw works in conjunction with TPS voltage. So by adjusting the idle screw, your TPS voltage could be out of spec. This sensor is vital to proper fueling ratio and proper engine runnability.

My recommendation would be to immediately verify the TPS voltage at idle and verify that it is set to spec.

14RMK144 · Nov 19, 2016

newbb said:
I already turned down the idle screw slightly and brought the idel down and reverse works now.

But

I was thinking maybe my primary clutch has different weights in it because the guy I got it from said he did ride the sled out west. I think he said he did adjust the clutching but cant remember for sure.

]If the primary weights are swapped out for out west riding vs. Here in Wisconsin riding ....can that have a impact on the sleds idle and possibly been my issue all along with it idling high?

If weights were changed for altitude, it wouldn't affect the idle RPM, but it could cause an over revving issue when riding at or near WOT.

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2013 Pro RMK 800 High Idle and No reverse?

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