Snopro steering on the M series project

[arctic2009]

I had a few requests to do a write up on the snopro steering we did on an M series build a few years back. Basically, you guys can use all the steering parts from the 2006-2007 snopro on your sled and it will bolt up just fine, with the exception of making a bracket from the gas tank mounts to the steering post adjuster. We only used four stock parts from the 2006-2007snopro and machined/fabbed up the rest, which saved a lot of money.

The part numbers we did use are as follows:
0607-844
1705-174
0605-877
1705-143
1705-142

The sno pro steering uses two bell cranks as opposed to one like on the M series. We used two stock bell cranks from an M and machined the splines in order to make the bolts work correctly on them since we had changed the angle the bell crank points. The bell cranks are also tied together beneath the bulkhead with an aluminum bar, as shown in tie rod assembly picture. This is also used on an 09+ M series, which we started with so we did not have to purchase this part. The bell cranks are tied together using 1705-142 143 on top. Everything is pretty straight forward from the parts breakdowns. The snopro bell cranks have small bearings in them that the bolt runs through. We didn’t do this way, we just put the bolts right through the stock bell cranks and we haven’t had any problems.

There are no chassis modifications done to accept this steering on an M, but the hood does need to be cut, and the gauge needs to be relocated to either side of the existing gauge opening. The ECU also needs to be moved to either side of the belly pans to clear for the steering plates. The pictures below will show what I am talking about.

The bracket from the gas tank bolts to the steering post adjuster is made from light square tubing. We have two angled pieces of tubing welded to a straight piece of tubing, which has a rectangle cut out in order to access the nuts on the gas tank. The steering post adjuster is attached to this square tubing, and the supports that run down to the front of the bulkhead are attached to the steering post adjuster. We have since changed the design a little bit due to our support tubes cracking, but that was a design flaw on our part. We now have a support connect the two down tubes which takes away the flex it had before.

If you guys have any questions feel free to ask, I would be glad to answer them. I tried to explain it the best I could, but I’m sure some of it may sound confusing! We have 2 years on this mod and it has been great, it gets you further forward on the sled and side hilling is not an issue with the different steering plane.

 

[arctic2009]

More pictures

 

[flapdoodle]

First off... holy crap Thank you!
I've been talking about this for a while. Cannot wait to try it.

Now.. In trying to keep the post vertical...

A post with a u-joint in the middle, and a brace across the 2 braces from the snopro.

Would this be feasible you think?

 

[arctic2009]

First off... holy crap Thank you!
I've been talking about this for a while. Cannot wait to try it.

Now.. In trying to keep the post vertical...

A post with a u-joint in the middle, and a brace across the 2 braces from the snopro.

Would this be feasible you think?

I don't see any reason why it wouldn't work, that is how they made vertical steering kits on the 4 stroke Proclimb. Doing that might be a little more of a challenge if you were going to keep everything underneath the hood, but it is feasible.

 

[KMMAC]

Thanks for the post,,, I was hoping it would be some sort of near bolt in thing with cat parts.........

 

[arctic2009]

Thanks for the post,,, I was hoping it would be some sort of near bolt in thing with cat parts.........

You can buy all of the cat parts to do it, we just chose not to. The only thing you need to fab is the bracket that mounts to the gas tank bolts.

 

[KMMAC]

That's awesome!!!!!!

 

[kidwoo]

Man I'd love to do something like this that keeps vert-ish steering but moves the steerer forward into a secondary A-frame like you did.

You'd need to erector set it up like the RMKs or proclimbs but I bet that would really improve moving the sled side to side at slow speeds in tight places.

 

[flapdoodle]

Man I'd love to do something like this that keeps vert-ish steering but moves the steerer forward into a secondary A-frame like you did.

You'd need to erector set it up like the RMKs or proclimbs but I bet that would really improve moving the sled side to side at slow speeds in tight places.

That' kind of what I was hinting at. Put a brace across the frame braces and a u-joint in the post to get it more vertical. Only thing wrong with that I see is how much further forward this will put the post. Might have to adjust the upper mount closer to the chassis to get it optimal. Should be a fun project this summer.

 

[arctic2009]

Ive got some A frame parts from a proclimb that look like they would have worked for what we were doing, but at the time we were building this the proclimb wasn't out :face-icon-small-ton You would have to keep the U joint at a pretty straight angle otherwise it might increase the steering effort quite a bit

 

[sledneckai3]

Got a front view pic of the hood cutout to clear the post?

 

[arctic2009]

I do not. This hood is a br tech thrasher hood which it looks like crap.. so I never took a picture of that. You basically cut the hood in a Y shape, due to the handle bar riser being too wide for the hood to clear when opening it. We also added a panel to block of the gauge opening with a slot wide enough for the steering post to sit in.

 

[flapdoodle]

Ive got some A frame parts from a proclimb that look like they would have worked for what we were doing, but at the time we were building this the proclimb wasn't out :face-icon-small-ton You would have to keep the U joint at a pretty straight angle otherwise it might increase the steering effort quite a bit

If you made a brace across the supports right before the u joint it would keep the post from moving, cut down on any extra steering effort.. right?

 

[arctic2009]

If you made a brace across the supports right before the u joint it would keep the post from moving, cut down on any extra steering effort.. right?

If the U joint has an extreme angle (90*), it will increase steering effort because you are fighting that joint every time you turn. Where as if you kept the U joint fairly straight (45*?) it will be a lot easier to turn.

 

[KMMAC]

Not that it's important but, do you have to pull the motor to do this or was there more work going on?

 

[arctic2009]

Not that it's important but, do you have to pull the motor to do this or was there more work going on?

No you shouldn't have to pull the motor, it would be a lot easier though. We built the sled piece by piece. Started with a raw tunnel and built from there. That's why all the pictures don't have a motor until later. That was one of the last things we put in, just to keep the risk of metal shavings etc out of there.

 

[backcountryislife]

If you want hokey screwed up steering... just go buy a skidoo... sheesh. DOO it right!

 

[arctic2009]

If you want hokey screwed up steering... just go buy a skidoo... sheesh. DOO it right!

Haha I would DOO that BCIL but I don't like girly yellow colored sleds like you DOO besides, this is my buddies sled we did this to, he's a little funny anyway.. lol

 

[flapdoodle]

so how much further forward does this put the bars vs stock?

 

[arctic2009]

so how much further forward does this put the bars vs stock?

We never measured exact numbers. But you can lean with your thighs all the way against the gas tank and not hit the bars with your chest, as you would with a stock steering post location.