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Upgrading the steering post forward on the 08/09 xp's.

mx100

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Jun 16, 2010
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Livingston, MT.
Thought I would post a few pics of my post forward. I am sure there are better ways to do it, this is just the way I went about it. First you need to pull hood, side pannels, gauges, upper air box, seat, and the silencer and pipe. This is what it looks like under all the cosmetics.
Under cosmetics.jpg

Next pull the risers, and loosen the upper steering post block. You will need to pull the big V brace that runs down along the gas tank. After you get the upper block pulled out, you will go down to the lower block, below the belly pan. There is a plastic gaurd that the steering post runs through that you will need to work out. It is under the pipe. It comes out through the bottom, and takes a little wiggling to get it out. Disconnect the tie rods from the steering post. Pull the two bolts that hold the lower block in place and pull the steering post up through the engine compartment.
under belly pan.jpg

Now that I have the steering post out, I have decided to build my own straight post, rather than purchase one. I bought a piece of DOM pipe to weld in the center section of my stock steering post. You can use any kind of metal you want for the center. My problem is that the O.D. of my pipe is 1.15", and the I.D. of the stock steering post is 1". I had a friend turn the pipe on a lathe so it would fit inside the steering post. I have heard of people just butt welding the pipe to the steering post. I cut my post like this. I am sure there are easier ways to build a straight steering post, but this was my approach.
stock post cut apart..jpg

Because of the little bend in the stock pipe that is close to the top mounting block, I cut the post a little closer to the T at the top, and welded in a sleve out of the extra stock post I cut, for the top block to mount to the post. This is the pipe with the sleve and the top of the steering post, (T) before I welded it together. I slid the pipe far enough into the T so I could drill holes, and spot weld it as well as weld it at the joint.
steering post before welding.jpg

I followed the Video on the c3 website on modifying the lower blocks. I modified both sides of the blocks, one side on top, and the other on the bottom. I also had to grind a little off the steering post bottom section,where the block mounts. It hit the mounting bracket where it mounts to the sled.
modifying lower blocks..jpg

After a pre fit, I welded it up, painted and installed it into the sled. Next I had to pre fit the air box. It hits on the steering post.
airbox hits steering post.jpg
I heated it with a heat gun, and used a 3" pipe to re shape it to clear the steering post.
Finished air box.jpg

Now it is just a matter of reinstalling everything I took apart. One other thing I did while I had the steering post out was modify the bottom where the tie rods connect. If you take 10mm out of it, it will resemble the steering on the 2010 and up xp's.
re welded lower post.jpg

Can't wait to try it out.
 

2dedge

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Aug 27, 2011
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I am in the process of doing the same thing but I used a s-chassis post and with just a little grinding the Xp post slides over the s-chassis post.

Has any one welded in a extra long section of post so riser height could be less?
 

mx100

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Jun 16, 2010
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Livingston, MT.
So if the s-chassis tube slides in the xp post, you will need to use a small piece to shim the spot where the top block mounts on the steering post.

This particular project is being done on my son's sled. On my 09 I plan on using the DOM tubing to extend my bars 2" higher.

I am i the process of trimming the gauge cluster to fit around the steering post, and brackets. I will post pics soon.
 
Last edited:

mx100

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Jun 16, 2010
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Livingston, MT.
Here is a picture of the dash after I got it all done. I cut a little for the brake line to fit a little easier. I also had to cut a hole for the brackets to stick through, and trim back a little for the steering post to fit. I was able to reuse the foam piece with some modifications to it to re-cover the hole that was left.
dash.jpg
 
J
Jun 13, 2009
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Hailey, Idaho
Question for you ...

Could you have just made the lower cut then spun the top so the dog leg swept the opisit direction? Yes I know there is a stop were the riser mounts but that could be removed if it was an issue... Just wondering if this would help with air box clearance and decrease the amount of needed fab work.

Looks good and this is more my style than buying a new post from skidoo.
 

mx100

Active member
Lifetime Membership
Jun 16, 2010
234
29
28
Livingston, MT.
Question for you ...

Could you have just made the lower cut then spun the top so the dog leg swept the opisit direction? Yes I know there is a stop were the riser mounts but that could be removed if it was an issue... Just wondering if this would help with air box clearance and decrease the amount of needed fab work.

Looks good and this is more my style than buying a new post from skidoo.


I think there is room for the steering post to angle down a little bit, but not much. That might actually help to clear the air box. Somewhere you would have to angle it back toward the lower blocks. I don't think there is enough room for the big sweeping bend, but the little one might be able to be fliped over. I guess a guy would have to cut the post and take a look at it. I have read about guys actually straightening out their stock post, and cutting a few inches out of it, and sliding a shim inside and welding it back up. I am going to be doing this upgrade to my 09 in a week or two, (I need to buy another set of c3 brackets) I will look to see if this is an option.

This has been a fun project, I am starting to learn how this thing works a little bit. Way different than the 1000.
 
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